From
a complete outsider’s point of view, being in the fashion industry probably seems
like one of the most glamorous, privileged, and unimpaired ways of living. This
may be the case, however, there is another side to this world that many people
don't know about. Many aspects of the industry that in fact, are the polar
opposite of perfect, although it is never showcased unless you are in the world
yourself... Or have a secret insider telling you all…
The
allure of fashion is based on illusions, not the reality achievable to most
consumers. What I mean by this is the industry tends to select models, during
Fashion Week for example, who are not a proper representative of the ‘general
pubic’ (a size 12 for the average woman). Consumers aspire (by design) to
follow current fashion trends but how can this be reasonable when the majority
of consumers do not resemble (in height, body shape, or size) the models who
bring the fashion trends to life on the runway and in magazines? It does not
make much sense in many ways but at the end of the day, fashion designers
continue to showcase their collections this way.
David
Graham is a set designer, as part of the “Design Team” for Jerry Schwatrz, a
high-end Fashion Photography Group based out of NYC. David was born in London
Ontario and followed his dream of becoming a photographer, which led him to go
to New York City where he then was introduced to Jerry. He has worked for Anna
Sui, Perry Ellis, Neiman Marcus (among many others) and I got the opportunity to
ask him for some inside scope that relates directly to the illusions of the
fashion industry. David described the long and very “unglamorous” end of the
fashion industry that involves the endless hours spent creating the set (the
background, props, landscapes) for fashion shoots and fashion shows (including
NYC Fashion Week). He has witnessed, first-hand the “hypocrisy” of the fashion
world in which what the consumer ultimately sees bears no resemblance to the
individual parts before the ‘illusion’ began. For example, models who, when
they arrive at the photo shoot or fashion show, appear to be very young (14 -
15 at times), exhausted, pale, thin to the point of being frail, drinking
energy drinks to stay awake…. followed by a 2-3 hour sit in a chair where their
hair and make-up are done (by 4 - 6 experts) while the model tries to stay
awake by focusing on her IPhone - Then, when the model enters the set (at least
for still shoots) everything is “fake” according to David; clothes are held
together (hidden, at the back) with clothes pins, 90% of the models have hair
extensions, the lighting and editing experts remove any perceived “flaws” (such
as freckles, birthmarks, scars) and they even contour the models’ bodies (via Photoshop)
to make them more voluptuous (enlarged breasts, wider hips, thinner waists).
To
David, the whole scene is both “fascinating and revolting” (Graham 2016). It is
lucrative but he does not personally agree with the “selling of unattainable
beauty” that is most often based on artificial premises. He loves the creative
aspect of it, like when he painted the sail with butterfly images for a Nieman
Marcus magazine cover and when he created an artificial field of grass filled
with daisies so that the model could lie in it and be photographed to sell Joe
Fresh Clothing. He feels conflicted because, as the father of a 10 year old
daughter, he wants her to aspire to be her best “original self - whether that
is an auto mechanic, lawyer, writer or painter” When asked if he would approve
if his own daughter chose to be a model, he said, “God, I hope not, but it
wouldn’t surprise me. Look what her dad does for a living.” Ultimately, he is
thankful for his job and the opportunities it gives him to take his daughter
away from the big city while he also admits that he has taken her to 3 NYC
Fashion Week events and concedes that “she was absolutely thrilled by it all.”
Therein lies the complication. While we may intellectually reject the premise
of false representation that the fashion industry perpetuates, we are
nonetheless drawn to it.
Although
there is also an opposing side to the topic of whether or not fashion is
selling us something impossible.. Are things changing? Is the fashion industry
becoming more accessible? More ‘realistic’? Some people are taking a stand and
doing things differently than the standard, photo shopped, unachievable
lifestyle given off by the majority of the industry. Many Advertisers and the
fashion industry as a whole have taken some recent strides to offset the
perceived hypocrisy of the “unattainable dream.” They are beginning (in some
ways) to recognize the need to CONNECT more closely to the ‘average’ consumer:
Someone
really using her voice to make a change is 28 year old body activist Ashley
Graham. A size 16 model on the rise of stardom! Sports Illustrated Magazine
Swimsuit edition (its most popular annual edition) has sent shockwaves through
the swimsuit modelling industry by selecting Ashley Graham, a plus-sized model
for its 2016 February cover. Ashley says in no way shape or form was the cover
picture of her on the beach in a bathing suit edited or photo shopped; “They
(Sports Illustrated editors) did not retouch me,” she said. “They did not take
out things. They didn’t reshape my body in any way, shape or form.”
(PeopleStyleWatch 2016)
Countries
are also taking a stand for change in the industry as a whole. Israel, Spain,
Italy, and most recently France as they enforce new rule to ban excessively
thin models from model activity. Anyone who is below the Body Mass Index (BMI)
proposed by health authorities (18), are no longer legible to be showcased in
any form (runway to still photo-shoots). Fashion agencies that use models with
a BMI under 18, could face charges of six months in jail and a fine of
$82.000USD. This will hopefully positively affect the way society is influenced
by the fashion industry due to the fact that more realistic women and men will
be showcased on runways and in editorials, therefore no longer giving off an
unattainable, unreachable, and unrealistic standard of what is ‘in’ in the
industry.
This
shows how fashion can EVOLVE and adapt to meet the current needs of its
consumers whether that is creating an illusion that only few can attain, or
promoting a style or brand that can be emulated (copied) by more ‘average’
consumers.
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