Oh, George! Winter 2023-2024

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Beyond XXL: Is the pleasure of getting what you want in fashion industry accessible to all?

In the past decade, the fashion industry has taken a leap in terms of embracing size inclusivity and made significant strides toward challenging traditional beauty standards and promoting body positivity. After years of criticism for exclusion and lack of diversity, brands started to carry a good diversity of sizes for their merchandise. However, the fact that the fashion industry is vast and diverse, and the level of size inclusivity can vary widely among different brands, segments, and styles. With all this in consideration, consumers do feel that there is still a long way to go.

After well-known instances like one in 2016, where a well-known comedian Leslie Jones couldn’t find a designer to dress her for an event she took it out on Twitter stating the bias of the fashion industry, and many of such more. The fashion industry took a shift, in 2021 Old Navy issued a statement that they would start carrying from size 00 to 28 in-store, to cater to the needs of demands from plus size customers addressing the campaign of size inclusivity in the fashion industry. They have now started retailing these sizes in more than 70% of their physical stores, with almost 454 committing to offer the same number of sizes as offered on their online platform.

Big retailers like H&M, Athlete, and Zara, have started to strengthen their mission of inclusivity too by extending their sizes up to 6xl. Not only by carrying the assortments, these brands to show their high support to the whole campaign have also partnered with plus size models, activists, and founders to show their new avatar and to affect the changes within the industry.

Runway shows for centuries was showing stick figure model, with acclaimed “perfect” body for fashion shows. While with the whole stir in the industry after the movement big designers have embraced the change and have made progress with its body diversity and inclusions. Many plus-size runway models have paved their path on the runway for famous designers in the past decade.

With all the progress and said changes, the fashion market still has a long way to go says Aayushi Ghosh, an artist, widely known for her work in the music industry. She is a fashion enthusiast and shares her displease during her shopping trips. “Imagine going to a shop and suddenly your eyes catch a beautiful piece of cloth, and you instantly know they would have not had the same thing in your size, so you recommend that piece to the person accompanying you saying that it would look good on them, and you hyping the look while they try it on”; she elaborates.

Shopping is an experience which is quite difficult to enjoy if you are a plus size. Aayushi explains that she can never get out of a store without at least one person judging her frustration of not finding the appropriate size. Moreover, as a stage artist, it is difficult for her to find costumes too. During the interview, she recalls an incident when her stage time was canceled by the producers just because they couldn’t find a matching costume, unlike all the other participants. It breaks your morale. “there is no pleasure in shopping, it is a task for me!” she exclaimed.

Thinking thoroughly as a shopper myself, and recalling all my shopping experiences, there is no doubt about the disparity present in the fashion industry in terms of size inclusivity. How many styles that you browsed through have sizes available that exceed XXL? Very few…? Almost none…?

People do believe that progress has been made, and to a certain extent YES! But size inclusivity does not end at just including a few more sizes in the assortment. It is also creating an environment where consumers do not feel judged, bringing more looks and styles, and training the staff and sales associates to treat the consumers rightly. When it comes to high-end luxury fashion brands, they still have a very limited size to offer and a lack of diversity in their campaigns and runway shows.

The representation is also one of the issues here, there is a lack of adequate representation of diverse body types by the brands in their advertising, runway shows, and fashion campaigns. The visibility of individuals with a wide range of body shapes and sizes is needed to proudly show inclusion.

Talking about the runway models, we did mention they are embracing plus size models, but there are claims that it is just tokenism. Including a limited number of plus size models without making any substantial change in the overall business practices shows the opportunistic side of the fashion industry. In a report by Vouge released just a few months back, they showed the data comparing all the runway shows held in the fashion capitals New York, Paris, and Milan, out of all the 219 shows only 17 brands included at least 1 plus size model.

Size inclusivity in fashion brands is still more than just offering a range of styles, it is a commitment to representation, empowering, showing diversity, and making fashion accessible to everyone. And with the clear image of the industry right now, we have a long way to go.

Snap, Post, Trend: Decoding the Influence of Social Media on Fashion Culture

In the fashion world social media is one of the biggest influences in the industry, but is it slowly ruining fashion? With social media becoming one of the most prominent forms of media, it means that apps like tiktok and instagram start to rule the influence over the younger generation. Can this influence be positive? Are people still holding on to fashion before social media’s rise to fame? 

Paper or tech?

For most people over the age of 18, they remember reading magazines and waiting for the Spring/Summer collections to arrive in the mail. With the rise of technology every catalog, fashion show and even shopping is online. Although everything is easily accessible online people still seem to be holding on to print. To see if people still have a love for print I conducted a survey around the halls of George Brown. I had asked 20 students “If given a choice to buy the digital or print copy of Vogue magazine, which issue would you purchase?”. The survey results were print at 100% and digital at 0%. These results were unexpected and when asked why to a couple of students, answers were all around the same. “There is nothing like it, it’s classic, digital doesn't capture it the same”. This feels hopeful with the younger generation keeping fashion icons and fashion culture alive. It is easy to lose quality with the quantity of content being put out trying to keep up with the ever-changing trends.With all that in mind social media is the most common form of media now, yet it still sounds like print will always have a special place in fashion media.

Scroll, Shop, Repeat

With media comes influence, whether that’s good or bad. Social media apps have created the biggest influence over people with addicting content. With celebrities' influence and constant trends flowing in and out, social media can really affect people’s personal sense of style. Wearing what makes you happy isn’t always what’s trending. Seeing videos with millions of views and comments about you needing these new leggings or watching celebrities saying you can’t live without these new shoes can persuade you into thinking you really do need these things. These trends can be more harmful than you think, with people falling for these ad traps it promotes fast fashion. With shop features being added on apps like tiktok and instagram, it feeds into consumerism and promotes buying things we don’t need. People will buy and consume whatever they are told to, but impulse buying these “new tiktok leggings” that are going to end up in a landfill a couple months later is doing harm to more than just your bank account.

From Pins to Profit

With this in mind the media can be positive while promoting clothing as well. With big brands taking the spotlight social media is great for promoting niche small businesses. A lot of people can find their brand promotion a lot easier with a social media platform for marketing. For example, Cassandra Gates Co-Owner of FiercelyFeminineSwim owns a small business that relies heavily on social media marketing. Cassandra is very knowledgeable about social media’s effects on the industry and using it to her advantage. When asked Cassandra said “I was very inspired by a fellow bikini brand 437, they blew up after being posted by Kylie Jenner and after seeing how much of an impact influencers and social media has I have been directing a lot more of our energy into tiktoks and instagram.” This is an example of success because of social media and how easy it is to spread the word about new trends and brands.Cassandra has said that she has found more traffic on her website coming from her social media than anything else. Watching brands blow up overnight on tiktok has given so many platforms to small businesses and expanded the fashion industry in positive ways. There are so many ways to connect and collaborate with different creatives in the industry to get a brand out there.

Media Influence Moving Fashion Forward 

It’s no surprise when hearing about how the fashion industry isn’t always diverse. Social media is showing a wider variety of people who are into fashion with things such as modest style tips, different body types and showing there is no right or wrong way to dress. Giving a platform to different styles and new designers allow people to explore their personal style by seeing what appeals to them. An article from Meer talks about welcoming diversity in the fashion world through social media “providing a platform for people to share their own style and connect with others who have similar tastes. Social media has made it easier for people of all different backgrounds and body types to find representation and feel included in the fashion world” as written by Shania Cooper 2023. Showing that more than just a size zero can wear a tight dress is changing the fashion industry in a positive way and showing a bright future for social media in the industry.

With the multiple pros and cons it’s no denying how heavy of an influence social media has on the fashion industry. With being careful how you consume media, having access to all different types of designers, influences, shopping and styles at your fingertips can be quite useful but whether it’s swaying the industry in a positive or negative direction is something we will find out in years to come.

Fast Fashion Vs. Sustainable Fashion

The Rise Of Fast Fashion

Shopping used to be an occasional act that would be done for the season changing or the factor of outgrowing your clothes. However, shopping is now a daily/weekly activity. With the rise of fast fashion, this has caused a shorter life cycle for clothing, more trends to keep up with and cheaper clothing. But the main question of all is Why fast fashion? 

Fast fashion allows customers to shop the latest trends at a very cheap price. However, just like everything in life, it comes with a cost. Fast fashion is one of the largest contributions to pollution and resulting into exploitation of workers in third world countries. In the early 2000’s, fast fashion increased when digital shopping was at a peak. Brands such as TopShop, Zara and H&M produced knock off look alike items from expensive luxury brands and offered them at a much lower cost which allowed everyone to shop and wear the latest trends. 

The Destruction Of Fast Fashion

At the rate that fast fashion is going, we will destroy the Earth. There is so many negative effects fast fashion has on the environment such as, pollution due to the toxic textiles which will result into global warming as well as the massive waste of textiles. More than 500Kg of clothing gets wasted yearly and this is due to fast fashion. Consumers are trying to stay on top of the latest trends which is causing the product life cycle to decrease drastically.

Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion is clothing that is produced that does not have a big impact on the environment. An example of this can consist of the use of organic and natural materials, upcycling, ethical practices and many more. Not only does sustainable fashion focuses on the use of less harmful production, it also highlights ethical practices such as ensuring fair pay among the workers as well as ensuring that their work environment is safe. 

Is Sustainable Fashion The Future?

The fashion industry currently, has a huge negative impact on the environment and if we do not do anything to stop it right now, our environment and natural resources are in deep trouble. Sustainable fashion is the future, it solves all the issues we are currently facing with fast fashion. It creates a better impact on the environment by producing and using durable fabrics as well as making sure the workers are treated fairly and safe. The three top benefits of sustainable fashion are improving quality by creating durable products. With fast fashion comes a lot of consequences and one being the decrease in good quality products. However, sustainable fashion produces durable and high-quality products which results in longer life cycles which means less clothes will be wasted. Also, it also preserves the natural resources.

With the use of biodegradable and chemical free materials, we are protecting the environments natural resources like land, energy and water. Lastly, sustainable fashion is more cost effective in the long run as consumers will not need to be so much clothing as they do now. 

What Can We Do To Help

As consumers, this issue may not personally affect us right now, however, soon it will. What we can do to help is to be selective on brands we shop from, it would be more ideal to shop eco-friendly brands, as well as think about quality over quantity. There is no need to be shopping weekly and overflowing your closets and dressers, try investing into clothing with better quality so they can last longer. This will not only save you money but reduce the amount of clothes that get wasted in the landfills. Lastly, try upcycling your clothes before you think about throwing them away.

Play This Remix: A deep-dive into Toronto-based Designer, Natalya Amres, who has mastered the art of re-working and remixing fashion

In what world should art be bound by rules? Or in the fashion realm, why should we be bound by threads? The most joy from fashion is derived from the freedom to choose, wear, or even create. Within the past decade, designers across the globe have been able to execute their creative ideas through re-working clothes, which has been an excellent way to keep fashion sustainable while also offering endless possibilities for garments. If you live in or around Toronto and have not seen the work of Natalya Amres, can you even be sure you know about re-worked fashion?!

Based in Toronto, Canada, Natalya Amres is a designer who has been sewing for almost a decade and has launched her self-made brand, Remixed by Tal (now called The Altered Label) since 2018. Natalya is a prime example of cultivating your passions; in a past interview, when asked about what inspired her to pursue making clothes, she responds, “I’ve always loved making things as a hobby and it kind of organically turned into a business when I started posting my work on Instagram. I got really good feedback on my designs, so I just kept nurturing that path and until it grew into a business”. 

When it comes to re-purposed clothes, Natalya knows how to capture the eyes of fashion lovers while also being environmentally conscious. Her work can be recognized by clean-cut repurposed garments and accessories like handbags made from un-wearable items like tennis balls or basketballs, and even sneakers! Although her archive is ever growing, one of her most innovative pieces was her pink basketball corset, made from a Wilson basketball, which has gathered almost 3 million views on TikTok! On her instagram, you can also see her other incredible pieces like cropped Carhartt and Dickie’s jackets, re-worked denim jeans and skirts, and patchwork teddy bears. Not to mention, she has had her work worn by notable figures like the hip-hop group, Migos, and players from the Toronto Raptors like Chris Boucher and Gary Trent Jr. It is clear that Natalya is one with creativity when it comes to her craft, she has expressed her long-term goals in the fashion industry which focuses on environmental sustainability: “I'd love to eventually launch a self-sustaining line of products that is fully environmentally conscious and true to my brand and personality”. Natalya also does many collaborations and says that over 50% of her work is collaborative: “It’s a great way to get more exposure and experience working with other brands”.

Some of her most recent collabs include Footlocker Toronto, where she was given the opportunity to sell her work in retail stores; when asked about the steps it took to reach this big accomplishment, Natalya responds, “I’ve worked with the Footlocker team on many smaller scale workshops in the past, so I think developing a good relationship with them over the years is what led me to this collaboration”. Another collaboration includes her work with theScore Bet, where she repurposed numerous pre-owned jerseys and turned them into a patchwork logo mural for the company; the mural stands at 7.5 x 4 feet, and she claims it is her largest patchwork piece.

Of course, all of this work deserves some rest and personal time as well, so how does Natalya operate day-to-day? She tells, “If it's a workday I usually start working right after my morning coffee because I love having the benefits of natural light. And I’ll work throughout the day and usually will incorporate a workout or run to keep mentally alert. But with such an ambiguous job my days and schedule constantly change which keeps it fun and interesting!” As stated, Natalya is an avid runner and has also expressed how important physical fitness is to her: “I’ve been running 2-3 times a week and it has helped tremendously with my focus and clarity”. Not to mention, with such a busy schedule, it is crucial to stay organized, Natalya’s solution?

Google calendar and post-it notes! However, she also notes, “When it gets really crazy I’ll have to write the daily to-do list for the next day and check it off as I go”. Aside from designing and sewing throughout the week, Natalya has also been recognized for her hard work and creativity which has led her to be featured for Hershey Canada’s HERforSHE campaign, for International Women’s Day back in March 2022; this campaign featured 5 Canadian women across Canada and gave them their own individual wrapper for their chocolate bars! 

It is safe to say that when it comes to defining freedom with fashion, Natalya Amres has grabbed the definition by its reins. Her work showcases her creative innovation and how re-working clothes has infinite possibilities; that ill-fitting jacket you thrifted doesn’t have to limit your wardrobe, consider remixing it into brand new jacket, or purse, or even a dress! Aside from the creative liberty that repurposing clothes has to offer, it is also a great way to take a step forward in sustainable fashion. With the increasing negative effects of fast fashion, using second-hand clothes to create new garments is a step in the right direction to combat this environmental issue, so consider creating your own remix

The rise of comfort: How COVID impacted the fashion industry

The global fashion industry was significantly impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. The health crisis drastically changed the way this industry functioned, resulting in the closure of factories and stores as well as the rescheduling of fashion events. Clothing demand suffered a significant shift, with consumers preferring cozy, more casual looks and the decline of expensive apparel.

Moreover, digitalization and sustainability evolved as major trends that forced businesses to reconsider their methods. To put it briefly, the pandemic changed the fashion industry by forcing it to adapt to a new environment defined by changes in consumer behavior and the demand for innovation.

Due to the pandemic, many physical stores had to close temporarily or permanently due to the restrictions imposed to stop the spread of the virus, which resulted in a significant decrease in sales in physical stores. With the need for social distancing and fear of contracting the virus, many people opted to shop online instead of visiting physical stores. This accelerated the transition towards e-commerce in the fashion industry and the need to strengthen this channel and think about strategies to compensate for the lack of sales in physical points. Brands turned to e-commerce as a primary way to reach consumers which led to a greater emphasis on online strategies and digital marketing. After the pandemic, many people continued to prefer shopping online for the convenience of doing so from their homes and abandoned shopping in person.

The pandemic accelerated the adoption of digital technologies in the fashion industry, from online sales and marketing to virtual events and fashion shows. This has allowed brands to reach a global audience more effectively and efficiently. Most scheduled events and fashion shows were canceled or held in virtual formats, affecting brands' exposure and interaction with consumers. Which forced the fashion industry to adopt innovative technologies, such as augmented and virtual reality, to reach consumers in an online environment. 3D modeling gained a lot of momentum and several luxury brands have currently chosen to launch their collections for clients and buyers virtually, in order to save costs on renting a place, planning an event, music, food and everything that that launch implies.

COVID had also a significant impact on the way people dress and the preference for casual clothing. People opted for casual clothing instead of suits, elegant dresses and office clothes, which affected the sales of these products and augmented the demand for comfortable and loungewear. As people spent more time at home and focused on their health and well-being, comfort became a key factor in fashion and brands had to adapt to these new consumer trends.

Designers and fashion focused on the comfort and versatility of the garments, such as the inclusion of elastics and softer fabrics in office or formal clothing. We see it currently reflected in the baggy clothing trend, the return of baggy jeans, cargo pants and the oversized fit.

The pandemic led to an increased focus on sustainability in fashion as consumers and brands become more aware of the social and environmental impacts of the industry. This has led to significant changes in the way fashion is produced, consumed and promoted, with a greater emphasis on environmental and social responsibility. 

As more time was spent at home and mobility was reduced, people began to reflect on their consumer habits and their impact on the planet. There was an increase in demand for sustainable and ethical fashion and consumers became more aware of where their clothes came from and began looking for brands that cared about social and environmental sustainability.

Global supply chains were affected by the pandemic, leading to increased interest in local and regional production and also boosted the local economy. Due to delays in the global supply chain, manufacturers and distributors had to reevaluate their methods, which encouraged brands to search for more sustainable and effective alternatives like on-demand production and local manufacturing.

The pandemic has caused the fashion industry to face many obstacles, but it has also brought improvements in supply chain innovation, comfort, diversity and inclusion, digitalization, sustainability, and creative collaboration. Future manufacturing and consumption of fashion may be profoundly influenced by these changes. The fashion industry was given a pause and an opportunity of evolving according to Vogue editor Anna Wintour, reported by CNBC (May 20, 2020) “I think everybody is rethinking what the fashion industry stands for, what it means, what it should be.” 

Exploring Sustainability: Comparing the environmental impact of vintage and fast fashion

Fashion has a long history, and like a diary belonging to the world, it has recorded the evolution of human civilization and society. In ancient times, people pursued intricate designs; during the Renaissance, they sought exquisite and elaborate shapes. The emergence of the Industrial Revolution brought radical changes to the world, the fashion industry is changing with the times. Just as the younger generation embraced cheap clothes and followed trends, true fast fashion emerged. 

It developed affordable, trendy clothing to meet consumer demand, but it also fostered detrimental consumer habits. As more people revered the idea of "disposable" fashion consumption, overproduction led to not only waste but also considerable harm to the environment.

Fortunately, as people become more conscious of environmental degradation and climate change, they are reevaluating fast fashion. Fast fashion brands are now considering how to reduce their water usage and carbon footprint, and they are exploring the use of organic materials to reverse the environmental damage caused by their production. Simultaneously, consumers are turning to recycling and purchasing second-hand clothing to minimize waste. However, when considering the fashion industry as a whole, is fast fashion the only sector that contradicts sustainability? Perhaps not.

The Birth and Surge of Fast Fashion

Fast fashion is a revolutionary business model that emerged in the 20th century, ushering in a seismic change in the fashion industry's landscape. Characterized by its rapid production cycles and cost-effective strategies, the fast-fashion approach quickly captured the attention of consumers yearning for stylish yet affordable clothing.

ZARA, the renowned Spanish clothing brand, played a pivotal role in spearheading the fast fashion movement. From its modest beginnings as a small clothing store, ZARA's innovative approach to delivering trendy apparel at accessible prices propelled its expansion throughout Europe. Its resounding success paved the way for its foray into the highly competitive U.S. market, solidifying its position as a global leader in the fast fashion domain.

The transformative impact of ZARA's success reverberated across the industry, sparking a wave of fast fashion brands eager to emulate its triumph. Industry giants such as H&M, Forever 21, and Uniqlo swiftly followed suit, harnessing the momentum of the fast fashion phenomenon to establish their global presence. As a result, the fast fashion sector has solidified its status as a dominant force within the global fashion industry.

The Decline of Fast Fashion

The headline "Forever 21 files for bankruptcy in U.S., to cease operations in Canada" was published by CBC News on September 29, 2019, and has significantly impacted the fashion industry. However, Forever 21 once synonymous with "cost-effectiveness," is now being criticized as offering "poor quality" and "clothes that deteriorate after a few washes." These labels strongly suggest that the company has gradually compromised on costs and quality control in pursuit of higher profits.

In addition to their highly cost-effective nature, the abundant creativity they offer is a significant factor driving the sought-after status of fast fashion brands. Despite maintaining a prominent position in the fashion industry, Zara is currently grappling with various crises. Not long ago, if a girl sported a Zara dress, she would effortlessly draw admiring glances from passersby. However, the brand has recently faced repeated criticism for instances of plagiarism, and its apparent lack of remorse in such cases has left many disappointed.

Yet, perhaps the most crucial concern lies not in the quality and originality of fast fashion products, but rather in the detrimental impact they impose on the environment. Given that the fast fashion business model revolves around the rapid turnover of trends, it results in the accumulation of significant quantities of out-of-season clothing that ultimately find their way to landfills or incinerators. However, the speed and volume at which this inventory accumulates often surpass the capacity of landfills, thereby placing an enormous burden on the environment, which we all rely upon.

Embracing Alternatives to New Clothing Purchases

As people realize the importance of sustainability, their focus is gradually shifting from fast fashion to vintage fashion. People now hold a different perspective compared to the past, with second-hand clothing no longer being an object of their disdain but rather a newfound source of pleasure. People enjoy discovering one-of-a-kind clothing and accessories in vintage stores and derive pleasure from these unique finds. Moreover, the recycling of second-hand clothing further contributes to sustainable development.

However, due to the perception that avenues exist for clothes recycling, there has been an increase in the frequency with which people discard their garments. Unfortunately, not all of this substantial volume of second-hand clothes can be effectively recycled.

I recently had a conversation with the owner of Uncle Vintage in Kensington, Toronto. When I inquired about the secrets behind the store's success. He explained, "While we have a steady flow of customers, their demands often revolve around special products like The North Face puffers, Carhartt work jackets, or FFA jackets. Procuring these items can be challenging as they are rare, and I sometimes have to source them from South Korea and have them shipped to Toronto to avoid disappointing our loyal clientele. However, despite our efforts, our daily turnover remains less than one-tenth of what some retail stores in the mall achieve."

It's enough to make me marvel at the realization that an industry I once perceived as sufficiently profitable is currently grappling with such a challenging predicament. As highlighted by the owner of this vintage store, while the supply of second-hand clothing surpasses our imagination, only a handful of items meet consumer demand, leaving a significant amount of unwanted second-hand clothing to languish, awaiting either landfill or incineration. Relying solely on recycling bins to support sustainability proves ineffective, and whether one still prefers fast fashion or opts for second-hand clothing, the consequences of impulsive spending are detrimental to the planet we all depend on.

Cutting Edge: Angela Elter, costume cutter and drafting professor, on what it’s like to work in our favourite shows and films

If you’ve never had the distinct pleasure of having Angela Elter as your instructor for a pattern drafting class, then you might have seen her work on shows like The Umbrella Academy or Shadow Hunters: The Mortal Instruments. I ask Elter about her career as a cutter, as well as advice for those wanting to enter the costuming profession.

On the Set

Cutters like Angela draft the patterns for the costumes that the actors will wear, working closely with other members of the costume department like designers, sewers, and buyers. What it's like to work on set is largely project dependent, as different costume designers have myriad approaches— some might develop a design through reading a script, while others organize a design through a character breakdown.

Elter describes working with Christopher Hargadon on The Umbrella Academy as a highly creative process, for example, while other designers might lean towards a more methodical approach. Hargadon would create a sketch, and then collaborate with Elter to realize the costume. Shooting schedules are tight, and costume departments have to work around them; sometimes there simply isn’t enough time to realize a very complex design. When that was the case, Elter would suggest a different direction for Hargadon to take that would still fit the time frame. Elter and Hargadon would then discuss with the shopper about the different fabrics, fuse, and other materials to buy. Activity is non-stop in a costume department: while the shopper was out buying, Elter would create the pattern, completing it by the time the shopper returned. Sewers would then construct the costumes, ensuring an uninterrupted workflow.

The next step is the moment we've all been waiting for: the costume fittings for the actors! 

Depending on the shooting schedule, an A-list actor might have multiple fittings. Other times, there might only be enough time for one fitting. Actors try on as many costumes as possible during a fitting, and not all costumes make it onto the screen. Elter tells me that she's asked what it’s like to work with actors “all the time.” She finds that actors are generally very lovely to work with: they want to look good in their costumes, after all, so they’re on their “best behaviour.” Of course, all actors have their individual personalities and personas, but actors who are particularly difficult are usually new and don’t last long in the industry. Producers don’t want to hire or work with difficult actors, especially when there are so many talented actors available. 

Usually, the costume department is the first group of people the actors will meet on a set, so the costume department wants to make a good first impression. Most actors are Americans visiting Toronto for the first time, and costume departments are eager to treat them like guests and keep up a good relationship. For Elter, the best part of working is the creativity and the fast pace. A day in the costume department goes by quickly, which is vital because she might be working 11 or 12 hours a day, sometimes throughout weekends. Working in a costume department might be rewarding work, but only if you really like what you’re doing!

Making a Career in Costumes

Elter has been costuming for around 30 years, but her career trajectory took some detours along the way before arriving at film and television. When Elter first graduated from the Fashion Techniques and Design program from Sheridan College, the only fashion-related work available in Toronto at the time was in factories. Factory work didn’t appeal to Elter, so she worked in restaurants for the next decade. Elter was 30 years old when she decided she needed a change. 

She started working in costuming by styling rock music videos in the early 90s, but she received her big change in 1995. She was walking along River Street, near her apartment at the time, when she turned the corner on King Street and saw the George Brown Theatre School. Elter entered to find a beautiful costume office, and asked their costume department to hire her — and they did.

Pursuing costuming wasn't easy: Elter left a lucrative position as an experienced restaurant worker to make $11 an hour starting out in theatre. Elter gained costuming experience by working for various theatre companies, when she eventually got a call in 1997 from someone who knew her in theatre to work as a sewer in a film. Elter was then the lead cutter for a production of Salome produced by the Canadian Opera Company, which propelled her career as a cutter in film. Elter describes her career trajectory as a “full circle”— starting her costuming career at George Brown, then returning to work once again at George Brown to teach others pattern drafting now that she's an experienced cutter.

Closing Credits: Advice for Working in Costume

Elter shared a few pieces of advice for prospective costumers. First, you have to be a hard worker— always be eager to take on tasks and learn, and don't just sit and wait for work. Working in a costume department is on a contractual basis: once a contract is over, you have to find a new contract. Adapting to different types of people and different ways of working is important, as is being proactive about finding new opportunities. Lastly, she suggests finding a niche— you’ll likely start out as an assistant, so figure out what specific position appeals to you and keep working towards it. Maybe one day you'll get to bring iconic characters to life on stage and on screen, just like Angela Elter.

The Hedonistic Dilemma: Fashion vs sustainability

Indulgence in fashion and the pursuit of sustainability - Can they ever coexist?

Clothing can be a canvas for self-expression and a statement for sustainability, proving that fashion can embrace both beauty and responsibility

The modern mystery of hedonism vs eco-consciousness arises in a world where the pull of fashion frequently collides with the necessity for sustainability. Our increased knowledge of the environmental consequences of our perpetual need for the newest trends. How much of a commitment to fashion do we need to make before we realize that it's costing the Earth? Hedonism and sustainability are two sides of the same coin in the fashion industry, and that's exactly what this piece investigates. Fashion has always been a reflection of one's particular style, an artful representation of self. An indisputably hedonistic pursuit of pleasure is the temptation to buy that new outfit or pair of shoes, motivated by the excitement of possessing something fresh and stylish. However, what results when hedonism conflicts with the critical requirement of sustainability?

"Celebrate the pleasure of fashion, but let it be a joy that sustains both your style and the planet”

Fashion’s enticing allure

The fashion business has a natural power to captivate our needs, generating a continual cycle of consumption. It's nearly impossible to resist fashion, what with all the new collections, fresh off the runway looks, and trend-setting influencers. Our wallets and the planet both pay a price for our hedonistic obsession with the latest fashions.

Fast fashion has become shorthand for mass manufacturing and consumption due to its low-price points and rapid cycle of new trends. In its pursuit of satisfying our baser urges, this sector of the economy has led to widespread loss of natural resources, the generation of unnecessary waste, and the use of unethical working conditions. It is a hedonistic society in which gratification is instantaneous, but repercussions are put off indefinitely.

Sustainability Awareness on the Rise

At the same time, an increasing focus on environmental responsibility is creating waves. The harm done to the environment by the fashion industry, such as water contamination and carbon emissions, is becoming more well known. Sustainability is more than just a catchphrase; it's an essential strategy for addressing the environmental disaster we now confront as a species. This awareness is posing a threat to the hedonistic foundation of the fashion industry.

Ethics, moderation in consumption, and efforts to lessen the fashion industry's impact on the environment are all part of the sustainable fashion ethos. Instead of focusing on the latest trends, slow fashion prioritizes quality over quantity. But must sustainability undermine fashion's glamorous allure?

Can Fashion and Sustainability Coexist?

“Fashion and sustainability can coexist beautifully when we choose to be conscious consumers and embrace eco-friendly styles."

While hedonism and eco-friendliness seem to be at odds, it doesn't imply they can't coexist in the fashion industry. At this juncture, businesses must decide how to best provide consumers' need for individual expression while also protecting the environment.

• Organic cotton, recycled polyester, and leather alternatives are just a few examples of the eco-friendly materials that many major fashion houses are starting to use. Using these materials, shoppers can satiate their hedonistic cravings for fashionable apparel while reducing their impact on the environment. Utah-based fashion firm Cotopaxi's CEO Davis Smith believes that sustainable fashion can be promoted through product design. He said their firm is committed to providing lasting garments as ethically and sustainably as feasible. And they're leveraging that successful business model to help underprivileged areas. Talk about a win-win!
• The New Slow Fashion Slow fashion advocates for a departure from fast fashion's throwaway nature. It appeals to the hedonistic aspect of fashion without affecting the environment by advocating for the purchase of classic, well-made items that will last for years to come. 4
• Ethical fashion labels are proliferating, and with them comes supply chain transparency. As a result, shoppers will be able to make educated decisions that will allow them to indulge their "fashion hedonism" without compromising their morals.
• Pre-owned and vintage clothing: Thrifting and vintage buying are not only budget- friendly but also sustainable. They let people with a penchant for hedonism in the realm of fashion experiment with different looks without adding to the problem of overproduction.

Influence of Consumer Preferences

Consumers have the final say in every market. Whether or not fashion and sustainability can coexist peacefully depends on our decisions. It is possible to satisfy our hedonistic fashion needs without sacrificing our commitment to the environment. It is crucial to think about how our fashion decisions will affect future generations and the world at large. We can strike a balance between hedonism and sustainability if we buy from sustainable firms, use eco-friendly materials, and are otherwise conscientious shoppers.

“Fashion is the pleasure we wear with a purpose, an artful expression of style and a statement of conscious choices."

A Pleasure with a Purpose

To be fashionable is to express oneself creatively, to embrace one's own uniqueness, and to take pride in those qualities. It is a pleasurable activity that doesn't have to hurt the environment. In this delicate tango between hedonism and eco- consciousness, we can reach a balance where the pleasure of fashion is increased by the understanding that our choices are kinder to the world. When it comes to clothing, sustainability is not about deprivation but about seeking pleasure with a meaning.

Today's world presents us with the hedonistic paradox of choosing between fashion and sustainability. However, this obstacle can be overcome if we rethink our consumption habits and the products we buy. Sustainable practices are gaining popularity in the fashion industry, providing us with a means to indulge our materialistic cravings without jeopardizing the planet's future. Oh, George! magazine is in the front of this shift toward fashion as a trendy, environmentally friendly source of enjoyment.

How COVID-19 Forever Changed the Fashion Industry

The covid-19 epidemic has had a profound impacts on many aspects of the society including the fashion sector. The pandemic compelled the fashion industry to innovate, adapt and reflect the shifting demands and views of the public beyond its direct effects on health. The article investigates the main manners by which coronavirus has changed the style scene.

1.Embrace e-commerce

In spite of a significant movement in customer behaviour toward online purchasing, nearly half (47 percent) of fashion shops have not modified their e-commerce strategy since the beginning of covid-19. 

Online purchasing provides a quick and safe alternative to brick and mortar stores, as customers are leery of the latter and merchants adhere to social distancing advice. Greg Lisiewski, PayPal’s VP and GM of global pay products, has noted that E-commerce is maturing now and is around even after the pandemic also. He pointed out that companies that were quick to adjust – those that enlarged their websites, added new features, or altered their advertising strategies - have had the most success in shifting foot traffic from in-stores to online visitors.

This change affects the entire online shopping experience, not just the ability to buy clothes. According to Lisiewski, a lot of retailers are being inventive in an effort to set themselves apart from rivals during covid-19. Some of these strategies include selling face-masks, lowering shipping costs, setting up online changing rooms, and more.

2. Sustainable and ethical fashion

There are many ways in which covid changes the fashion industry and one of the them is sustainability. The vulnerabilities in global supply chains were brought to light by covid-19, which led to a reassessment of the environmental impact of fashion. The increasing awareness of consumer’s purchasing decisions resulted in a rise in the market for fashion items that are sustainable, environment friendly and ethically produced. Numerous fashion labels have adopted sustainable methods, choosing eco-friendly materials, moral production procedures, and open supply networks.

3. Virtual Fashion shows and events

Embracing the virtual fashion shows and events, the fashion industry responded to social distancing measures. Prominent Fashion shows and weeks made the shift to digital media, which expanded their audience and made it easier for people to attend private fashion events. This change in presentation subverted conventions and changed the course of fashion shows.

4. Rise of comfort and functionality

There was a massive rise in comfort during the covid and after pandemic. The pandemic caused a shift in fashion trends from ostentatious and uncomfortable clothing to sensible and cozy clothing. Athleisure, loungewear, and activewear became the new fashion staples as more people adopted remote work and lifestyles. Clothing that is both fashionable and comfortable has become more popular, blending the lines between style and utility.

5. Creative face masks

Due to pandemic, masks became a major fashion accessory, creating a demand for distinctive, reusable, and stylish mask designs. Face masks gained popularity as a necessary accessory for both practical and stylish reasons. Creative designers and fashion houses created a variety of fashionable and trendy face masks.

6. Localism and community support

The pandemic brought home how crucial it is to help out small businesses and communities. This trend promoted a feeling of community within the fashion industry in addition to helping local economies. There was a resurgence of interest in locally made fashion items as fashion enthusiasts began to recognize and value local designers and artisans.

7. Increase in active wear

The pandemic caused gyms to close, but in its place, home workouts and virtual fitness classes became immensely popular. Sales of sportwear had increased rapidly. There are many incredible brands available for fitness enthusiasts, for example; Athlete, Alo yoga and Lululemon.

8. Focus on hygiene and safety

The pandemic led to a renewed focus on hygiene in the fashion industry. Fashionable face masks, contactless shopping and antimicrobial textiles become necessities. Fashion retailers implemented strict cleaning protocols and designers used antimicrobial materials in their clothing to guarantee the safety of their customers.

9. Embracing DIY and upcycling

With more people spending time at home, upcycling and DIY fashion became more and more popular. By creating their own clothing, experimenting with tie-dying, and upcycling used clothing, people investigated their creative outlet. This trend helped cut down on fashion waste in addition to promoting creativity.

10. Fashion industry collaboration for covid-19 relief

Designers and fashion houses come together to support relief efforts against covid-19. Numerous high-end fashion labels and clothing manufacturers converted their spaces to make hand sanitizers and personal protective equipment. Designers and nonprofits working together became a familiar sight, emphasizing the industry’s social responsibility.

In conclusion, the covid-19 pandemic sparked revolutionary shifts in the fashion industry that affected production techniques, consumer preferences, and social consciousness. Lessons learned during this difficult time will probably help to shape a more sustainable, inclusive, and inventive future for the fashion industry as it continues to change.

The Most Important Influence on Contemporary Fashion

Fashion is a dynamic creative and cultural expression that changes all the time. Pop culture and technology are only two of the many variables that shape modern fashion today. However, sustainability is the one factor that we prioritise over the others. Significant changes in the design, production, and consumption of clothing have resulted from this effect, which has also transformed the fashion business. We chatted with sustainable design expert Ana Rodriguez to have a deeper understanding of this shift, and she offers insightful commentary on how sustainability has evolved into the main inspiration for modern fashion.

An Examination of the Development of Modern Clothing

Contemporary fashion is distinguished by its rapidity and ongoing change. But in order to appreciate its most significant impact, one must first stand back and look at the history of fashion. Throughout the 20th century, mass manufacturing, globalisation, and celebrity culture were inextricably tied to fashion. The fashion industry was controlled by iconic names like Chanel, Gucci, and Prada, and designers were held in high regard. Mass production of clothing resulted in the unsustainable exploitation of workers and resources due to quick fashion cycles.

But when the twenty-first century rolled around, worries about climate change and environmental consciousness started to affect how people thought about fashion. Growing awareness of the fashion industry's negative environmental effects, together with improvements in technology and information availability, made sustainability the ideal habitat to flourish.

Sustainability: The Transforming Force

The biggest effect on contemporary fashion now is clearly sustainable fashion. The term "sustainability" describes how to produce and consume apparel while minimising adverse effects on the environment and human health. This strategy aims to protect the environment, lessen pollution, and advance moral behaviour in the fashion business.

We spoke with Ana Rodriguez, the creator of "Conscious Fashion" in the words of designer Ana Rodriguez, as reported by El Mundo (2023, June 14) an initiative that promotes ethical and sustainable design, to gain a deeper understanding of how sustainability affects modern fashion.

"Sustainability in fashion is not a passing trend," asserts Ana Rodriguez. It is an essential reaction to the moral and environmental problems the sector faces. As consumers become more conscious of the consequences of their fashion decisions, manufacturers are responding to this need. Using eco-friendly materials is just one aspect of sustainable fashion; another is taking into account a garment's whole life cycle, from design to disposal. This entails selecting ethically produced goods, using sustainable resources, and encouraging conscientious consumers."

The impact of sustainability on modern fashion is seen in several significant ways:

• Sustainable Materials: Organic cotton, hemp, Tencel, and other recycled textiles are among the sustainable materials that businesses are choosing more and more. These materials lessen the industry's carbon footprint and reliance on non-renewable resources.
• Ethical Production:  It is commonly known that labour exploitation occurs in the clothing industry. Sustainable fashion prioritises ethical manufacturing, guaranteeing equitable compensation and secure working environments for labourers.
• Conscious Consumption: People are making the decision to make fewer, more deliberate purchases. A preference for quality over quantity is challenging fast fashion by lowering waste and lessening its negative effects on the environment.
• Technological innovation: From producing recycled materials to increasing manufacturing and distribution efficiency, technology is vital to sustainable fashion.

Sustainability has caused a great deal of change in the fashion business by challenging established practises. Companies that were before infamous for their mass manufacturing and indifference to environmental effects have started implementing more environmentally friendly procedures.

Prominent corporations, like Adidas, Zara, and H&M, have declared their intention to lower their carbon emissions and use more moral manufacturing methods. These modifications are unmistakably evidence that sustainability is becoming a major factor in modern fashion.

The emergence of independent firms and designers who have made sustainable fashion their main emphasis is another indication of sustainability's effect. These companies are dedicated to ethical production, sustainable material selections, and open supply chains. They have also discovered an enthusiastic market that respects sustainability and is prepared to spend money on premium, eco-friendly clothing.

Sustainable Fashion's Future

The field of sustainable fashion is always changing, and it appears that its influence will only grow with time. In the years to come, there should be some interesting innovations as sustainability is woven more and more into the foundation of the fashion business. Technological advancements like biotechnology and 3D printing have the power to completely change how clothes are created and made. Furthermore, there is growing consumer awareness of sustainable fashion, which puts pressure on firms to implement more ethical practises.

In brief, sustainability has unquestionably had the biggest impact on modern fashion. The industry has changed as a result of this tendency, which has pushed for the adoption of more moral and responsible behaviours as well as an emphasis on the longevity and quality of clothing. Sustainable fashion is an essential answer to the ethical and environmental issues that the industry is confronting, not merely a fad. By choosing products and behaviours that promote sustainability in fashion, we as customers have the potential to create good change. This trend towards more ethical fashion is encouraging because it portends a day when ethics and beauty will coexist.

Why Sustainable Fashion Is the Solution

In a world where ethical and environmental concerns are given more weight, sustainable fashion appears to be the answer to the major problems facing the sector. This article explains why reducing the harmful effects of the fashion industry on the environment and the global population requires a focus on sustainable fashion.

The Effects of Fashion on the Environment:

We must first recognize the scope of the issues that sustainable fashion seeks to solve before we can fully comprehend why it is the answer. The environmental impact of the apparel industry is astounding. It causes a huge amount of the world's carbon emissions, which is a substantial contribution to climate change. In addition, the sector contributes to pollution, habitat damage, and resource depletion by consuming enormous amounts of energy, chemicals, and water in the process of producing textiles and apparel.

Fast fashion makes these issues worse by encouraging an excessive consumption culture in which clothes are thrown away after only a few wears. These days, it's more important to feel good about how you look than it is to just look nice. That's exactly what sustainable fashion provides by emphasizing environmentally friendly materials.

The Potential of Eco-Friendly Materials

The core of the solution for sustainable fashion is eco-friendly materials. Hemp, organic cotton, and recycled textiles are some of these materials. Their lower environmental effect is what distinguishes them from conventional materials. For example, organic cotton is farmed without synthetic fertilizers or hazardous pesticides, which reduces pollution of the soil and water. Tencel uses less water and energy to produce because it is created from wood pulp that is sourced sustainably. Recycled textiles keep textile waste out of landfills and lessen the need for new materials.

Customers may significantly lessen the environmental effect of the fashion industry by selecting sustainable materials. These materials offer a platform for more moral and environmentally friendly production methods in addition to conserving natural resources.

The Movement for Slow Fashion

The slow fashion movement and sustainable fashion go hand in hand. This way of thinking encourages people to invest in classic, long-lasting objects rather than chasing fads. It also promotes quality over quantity. It encourages customers to think of clothing as an investment rather than a throwaway item. People may lessen waste, lower their carbon footprint, and encourage a more sustainable approach to personal style by embracing the concepts of slow fashion. Rather than obsessing over new clothes every season, people can put together a wardrobe that is timeless and represents their principles.

Equitable Wages and Ethical Manufacturing

As problematic as the environmental issues related to fashion are, the ethical issues are just as troubling. Fast fashion frequently uses cheap labour from developing nations, which results in poor pay and abusive working conditions for garment workers. By way of ethical production, sustainable fashion, on the other hand, guarantees that the people who manufacture our products are paid fairly and work in safe conditions.

This ethical approach to production covers all phases, from the final sewing of the garment to the cultivation of raw materials. Being a keystone of the fashion industry's development, it fights for the rights and dignity of workers.

Financial Suitability

The idea that sustainable fashion is more expensive is one that is frequently held. Although it's true that eco-friendly apparel can cost more than its fast-fashion equivalent, the economy is shifting. More accessible and reasonably priced solutions are emerging in response to the growing consumer demand for sustainability.

As a matter of fact, eco-friendly and ethical fashion firms have been earning major financial gains, proving that such methods can be profitable. Customers may help reform the market so that it values people and the environment by supporting these brands.

The Trends of the Future

The fashion sector finds itself at a turning point. It has two options: it can take the sustainable way or keep going down the path of overconsumption, pollution, and exploitation. Many visionaries believe that fashion will have sustainability at its foundation in the future.

Innovation and technology are major contributors to this change. Fashion is moving toward a more ethical and environmentally friendly future thanks to developments in recycling methods, sustainable materials, and supply chain transparency. We should expect a more responsible and optimistic future for the fashion industry as we adopt these advances and customer demand for sustainability rises.

In conclusion

Is sustainable fashion the answer to fashion's problems is no longer a question. Of course it is. Sustainable fashion offers a comprehensive strategy to altering an industry that desperately needs to change its ways by emphasizing eco-friendly materials, ethical production, and consumer empowerment. It's time for us all to join this revolution, which is more than just a solution. It is within our power as consumers to demand that the fashion industry respect the environment and the people who make our garments.

The Pursuit of Excess: Chasing the dream of more: Uncovering the consequences of excess in fashion

When more isn't always better: Examining fashion overconsumption and overproduction’s impact on the environment

I love shopping! Is something all of us have at least heard once in our lifetime, or even said ourselves. Buying a piece of clothing is a very particular and distinct experience for different people, especially in the latest years, with the growth of e-commerce and the global pandemic. People wanted and needed more. Only one click to acquire a new piece of clothing, two clicks for accessories, and the classic buy one gets one free always gets us. Easy to shop, hard to think about the consequences, this is the mentality that has surrounded the Fashion industry for the last years. While we feed our Fashion appetite, we are also feeding an Environmental crisis.

It is not fair to blame only the consumer, especially when they are being fed an enormous buffet, for a few pennies. Overproduction in Fashion is a grave issue, and it is currently affecting the world every single day. Overproduction happens when Fashion companies produce more than what they can sell: so? What happens to the excess product? Destroyed, trashed, and thrown away is the usual end of the clothing we purchase, currently in Canada there are 500 million kilograms of textiles product being dumped yearly, ending up in our landfills and Nature. Although it is quite easy to get rid of our clothes, the environment is not as lucky, the different products, Chemicals and water quantity used in creating a piece of clothing is highly expensive in resources cost, when it’s thrown away in the garbage the consumer are not only wasting money but also resources, this also usually always result in the clothing being disposed in a landfill, where it will take 200+ years to fully decompose.

Being aware of the consequences is already a first step towards resolving the issues. Fast Fashion is the flagship store of overconsumption, while demand rises, it is easier and more financially profitable to focus on acquiring more products and disposing of the excess inventory after. Fast Fashion constantly keeps up with every trend and does not care about durability and the lifetime of the merch. Product after product released daily, and when the trend is gone?

The apparel needs to be gone too; finding an ethical and Environmental solution would require economic loss for these companies so dumping the excess on the landfill or deserted areas feels like their right solution. As National Geographic reported in an article dated April 10, 2023, right now there is an environmental and social emergency for the planet, explaining how the clothing that gets dispose of, ends up in the Northern Chilean Desert or in other Landfills around the world. This happens when clothing is not sold, these mountains of thrown away clothes are rising every single day, not only causing issues to the surrounding Nature, but also impacting the population that lives in this area. To protect Chilean ground the government passed a law that condemn and makes producers accountable for six diverse types of waste, this unfortunately has helped, but not resolved the main problem, Overproduction is a grave issue, that derived from Overconsumption.

Buying clothing is a necessity, but when that Need becomes a Want significant problem rises. Wanting the latest piece of a trend, owning the most interesting jewellery and having the cutest bag to match; are normal instincts to have, but when is it too much? In between 2000 and 20014 the number of clothes that the average person buys increased by 60%, to keep up with this rising demand, Fast Fashion became the one to ailment it.

We wanted more, they gave us more, but to do so they had to opt for cheaper materials, inadequate quality textiles and excessive production. In recent years, the apparel industry has risen to its peak, thanks to the growing social media trends, e-commerce and especially after the Global pandemic, expressing yourself with clothes was one of the ways diverse people used as a coping mechanism. The quality and durability of the clothes purchased through Fast fashion companies is widely inferior to what was around in the past. Consumer behaviors have shifted towards shopping for new apparel more frequently than ever, and in direct relation to the purchase of poor-quality items, the lasting lifespan of the product will be highly inferior causing the item to be disposed of in about a year period. Excessive amounts of clothing are made to meet the consumers' demands, but there are no precautions or strategies made to assure ethical disposition and production methods, only 15% of clothing is recycled, the other 75% end us in our landfills.

Overconsumption and Overproduction are the two key issues affecting the Fashion industry, and the World as a whole, to make sure that a change is made, the industry needs to be aware of the environmental impacts of textile fossil-based waste (polyester). Opting for a transition to a more circular textile system, promoting the use of more ethically sourced product, enhancing energy efficacy on the supply chain, and dropping the use of fossil-fuel based fibers are all solutions that can be implemented by Fashion companies to reduce the waste and the dangerous emissions. A few companies like: Patagonia, Ecoalf and The North Face are all actively implementing these ethical solutions and are pushing other companies to follow them and contribute to the change. As a person you can do your part to help, recycling your clothes can have a significant impact. Swapping or donating your clothes are successful alternatives. Thrift shops and Donation centers are helping industry and society on the regular basis, opting for these options while browsing for clothing can have a profound impact on the environment.

Lastly taking care of your clothing and assuring a longer lifespan is a small step that we should all take.

Deinfluencing the Fashion World: How TikTok's trend is redefining the industry

In the ever-evolving landscape of social media, TikTok has emerged as a formidable platform for setting trends, influencing consumer behavior, and reshaping various industries. While the influence of TikTok influencers on fashion has been undeniable, a curious phenomenon has been gaining traction lately—the "deinfluencing" trend. This wave of authenticity and individuality is challenging the traditional fashion industry's norms and priorities, and it's leaving a profound impact on the way we view style and self-expression.

The Power of TikTok

TikTok, a video-sharing app launched in 2016, has taken the world by storm, with over a billion active users as of 2022. The platform allows users to create short, engaging videos that can be about anything, from lip-syncing and dancing to educational content and comedic sketches. Its algorithm's genius lies in how it personalizes content for each user, making it a hub for discovering new trends and ideas, including those in the world of fashion. TikTok's impact on the fashion industry became apparent when "TikTok Made Me Buy It" became a viral hashtag, indicating that the platform's users were significantly influencing consumers' shopping choices. Users' authentic reviews and genuine enthusiasm for products and trends were a breath of fresh air in an industry dominated by perfectly curated influencer content. However, this trend has evolved into something more profound, leading to the deinfluencing phenomenon.

Deinfluencing: The New Era of Authenticity

The deinfluencing trend on TikTok revolves around deconstructing the conventional standards of beauty, fashion, and personal style. Influencers and content creators are actively challenging the status quo by embracing their imperfections, unique styles, and individuality. Rather than adhering to the unattainable beauty ideals of the past, they celebrate diversity and self-expression. This trend is a response to the unrealistic beauty standards perpetuated by traditional fashion magazines and influencers. On TikTok, users are ditching airbrushed perfection for raw, unfiltered content that reflects real life. People are showcasing their stretch marks, cellulite, and natural beauty. They are discussing their struggles with body image and mental health, resonating with millions of viewers and creating a powerful sense of community.

Impact on the Fashion Industry

The fashion industry, which has historically relied on unrealistic beauty ideals to sell products, is feeling the impact of this deinfluencing trend. This transformation is most visible in the way brands and designers are reevaluating their marketing and production strategies.

Inclusive Fashion

One of the most significant shifts brought about by the deinfluencing trend is the emphasis on inclusivity. Brands are recognizing the importance of designing clothing lines that cater to a wide range of body types and skin tones. The industry is beginning to embrace diversity and representation, celebrating the beauty in all its forms. This shift is not merely a response to social pressure but a reflection of changing consumer values.

Authenticity and Transparency

Consumers are no longer content with airbrushed and Photoshopped images. The fashion industry is being held to higher standards when it comes to transparency. Authenticity has become a buzzword as consumers demand to know the true origins of their clothing and the ethical practices behind their creation. Deinfluencing has prompted a more critical approach towards sustainability and ethical manufacturing processes.

Independent Fashion Voices

The deinfluencing trend has allowed independent and small-scale designers to shine. On TikTok, individuals with a passion for fashion are gaining a platform to showcase their unique styles and creations. This shift has brought forth a wave of new, innovative fashion perspectives that challenge traditional norms and cater to niche markets.

Dismantling Fast Fashion

Fast fashion has been a staple in the industry for years, driven by the need to keep up with constantly changing trends. However, the deinfluencing movement is challenging the harmful impacts of fast fashion, advocating for a more thoughtful and sustainable approach to style. The focus is shifting from disposable clothing to durable, timeless pieces.

Empowerment Through Fashion

The deinfluencing trend isn't just about rejecting conventional standards; it's about empowering individuals to express themselves through fashion. This empowerment is driving a new wave of creativity, with consumers finding joy in exploring personal style rather than adhering to what's deemed fashionable by influencers or traditional media.

Future Implications

The deinfluencing trend on TikTok is causing a paradigm shift in the fashion industry, and its effects will likely continue to reshape the way we approach style and self-expression. Brands are being forced to adapt to the changing landscape by becoming more inclusive, transparent, and ethical. Consumers are also becoming more conscious, making informed choices about their fashion purchases. They are willing to invest in timeless, high-quality pieces that align with their values rather than disposable fashion.

This shift may lead to a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry in the future. Furthermore, the fashion world is witnessing a democratization of influence. TikTok provides a platform for independent designers and creators to thrive, breaking the stronghold of big brands and allowing fresh perspectives to flourish.

In conclusion, TikTok's deinfluencing trend is reshaping the fashion industry by promoting authenticity, inclusivity, and individuality. As consumers and creators embrace their unique styles and reject traditional beauty standards, the fashion industry is evolving to cater to these new values. The future of fashion is looking more diverse, sustainable, and reflective of the true essence of self-expression. TikTok's influence is not only changing the way we dress but also the way we think about fashion.

Djing, Partying and The Culture with YesYesY’all’s Nino Brown

Nino Brown takes us through the evolving diversity, drug culture and individuality in Toronto’s Party scene.

Dj Nino Brown (@yesyesninobrown) is a leader in Toronto’s culture. Starting 'YesYesY’all,' Toronto’s 'Biggest, Bashiest, and Sweatiest Queer Hip-Hop/RnB/Dancehall Jam' with Yes Yes Jill, in 2009, she has become an icon in Toronto. We have been friends for a year now. Since she had previously expressed interest in swimming in my apartment complex’s pool, I was able to entice her into what ended up being more of a 3-hour-long conversation than an interview at my humble abode. As someone who has been DJing and partying long enough to experience firsthand multiple eras of Toronto, I entered the conversation curious about the ways in which the evolving social and gender norms, fashion, and drug cultures have affected Toronto’s culture, and how these changes have influenced her views on DJing, partying, and the world.

We started the conversation at her starting point in the scene. I asked Nino about the age at which she started going to parties and if she was scared, as my anxiety was through the roof when I began going out. “I was 15 when I went to my first parties. They were mostly house parties because that’s all I could get into at that age. However, I would have the rare night when one of my cousins would get me into a rave. I was definitely not nervous. Growing up in a restrictive household, my eyes were wide open when I went out. I was excited to see different people and their extremes, and I could find similarities within myself through their differences.” I inquired about the scene at that time. “It was very, very white.” This comment somewhat surprised me. With gentrification being apparent in the city, 

my dad, who at the time was throwing bashments, speaks to me as if Toronto, year by year, is eliminating culture and becoming whiter. Mentioning this to Nino, she reminded me of the sheer size of Toronto and how there can be many different cliques of parties for different diasporas. She specified that she was mainly talking about the queer scene, as that was her area. Nino believes that most party scenes have only become more diverse each year. 

YesYesY’all, now in its fourteenth year, is truly a spectacle. Watching old videos on my phone from the event, there are 560 people dancing hard and getting as sweaty as possible. There are Caribbeans and Jamaicans in full carnival getups, queer extravagance, models in next to nothing, and an MC shouting madness over dancehall, hip-hop, baile funk, and club remixes. I wanted to know everything about the event, from its inception to the present. “It started as simply, 'Let’s throw a party.' 

I didn’t know if anyone would come, but it ended up being busy. Then, each time we threw the event, it seemed like the crowd would double. I think we got a little lucky.” I asked her how, through the years of throwing YesYesY’all and DJing, she thinks the culture has evolved. “There were times when the culture made me lose passion for DJing. I remember when Xanax was really prevalent from around 2014 to 2018; I found it really hard to find enjoyment in going out and throwing events. People weren’t really dancing. You had to play a certain type of music, mainly rap, for people who would just want to be” she motions a dance of zombified bouncing. “When Xanax started to phase out, I started to notice my enjoyment coming back as people began to dance again.”

As I started going out at 16 in 2016, I remember the Xanax craze. Some of my high school friends experienced it as their first addiction. Never being much of a hard drug person myself, I have memories of walking into basements full of zombies and sitting there, bored and uncomfortable. Then, having the same kids claim that their night was ‘crazy’ and ‘a movie’ the next day. We ended up going off-topic from 'YesYesY’all' to talking about drug culture. Over my seven years of partying, I've seen drug culture 

shift from Xanax and lean to weed as it became legalized, and now ketamine is the drug of choice. I asked her how her feelings on drugs were in DJing. “I always tell my peers, you need to be a good DJ while sober. I see so often someone saying, 'Oh, I'm nervous,' or 'Oh, I'm tired, I need a drink,' or 'I need a bump.' It can be a dangerous path and an easy one to fall into.” We started to discuss our experiences in seeing the extremes of it. For me, it was at 21, seeing someone nod off and being unable to get up in the back room of the club Wiggle Room due to fentanyl. For her, it was “this one vivid memory of my friend, who was a grown man, struggling to get up the stairs. I remember thinking, is this fun?”

As the conversation took a dark turn, we steered it back toward her favorite aspects of throwing events and DJing. “I really love curating a room. Seeing people who wouldn't usually interact and have fun together brings me a lot of joy.” I mentioned how a lot of people around her are characters and have crazy fashion. “I am really attracted to extravagant people. Maybe even more so, extravagant dressers. 

It can be interesting to see how someone can dress loudly and yet be timid.” We closed off the conversation by discussing fashion in the scene. “It has only become more individualistic and extreme. I think it's in a really fun place with themed parties like PepRally, where we have clubbers putting a lot of effort into cool, extravagant outfits, just for one night, for the culture.” As Lil Uzi Vert's music played on my TV, we finished by talking about how the fashion scene is so awesome, that stars are able to implant an 11-carat pink diamond into their head. Sadly, we never made it to the pool.

Dressed for Success: The Stylish Journey of a Film Costume Designer

Costumes chosen for the screen are not only clothes worn by the actors, they are also the threads that weave the fabric of the story. Costuming helps to establish themes, personalities, time periods and storylines. Films use costume design to draw into the viewer's nostalgia in films like Barbie (2023), play on historic garments with a new lens as seen in Marie Antoinette (2006), or showcase coveted designer pieces such as in The Devil Wears Prada (2006). With the help of film costume designer and stylist Holly Caverly, we will embark on a journey behind the scenes of the set to shed light on the meticulous and thoughtful work that goes into dressing adored characters.

“If you’re going to do it…you have to want to see the movies get made, have some passion about not just the clothes, but about the final product.” says Canadian film costume designer, Holly Caverly. Holly is working in Ontario, most recently on the Amazon Prime TV show The Lake.

Prior to filming on set, Holly and the team must source and create the looks plus alternative options for the actors for all of the scenes. In order to get the best possible pieces, the buyers and drivers are essential. They drive back and forth to different stores and cities, picking up and dropping off items for set. During this preparation period, a lot of time is also spent in rental houses, typically in Toronto, looking through and pulling possible garments for the film.

Once on set, the day starts off by setting outfit options for each character, making sure there are no issues with the garments and steaming, steaming, steaming! Holly mentions that she would have never guessed that such a large portion of her day would be spent steaming!

After the clothes have been prepared, the outfits get fitted to the actors and any changes are made before they are sent off to set. At this point, the designer would accompany the actors to the set to establish the outfit in the shot and go over the looks with the director, who may or may not have changes to make.

One of the biggest jobs of the designer is to track continuity in the scenes. I think we have all noticed something like this in a movie or TV show before; in one-shot the actress has her shirt tucked in and thein the next shot suddenly it's untucked! Inconsistencies like this can be incredibly distracting and Holly describes it as one of the most difficult and tedious aspects of the job. She comments on how continuity tracking is extremely stressful and it places a lot of pressure on the styling team. Errors in continuity can be very obvious to the viewers and if a mistake needs to be fixed, it can result in a loss of time and money for the production team.

The lead designer can’t do it alone, and it is essential to have a good teamaking them. Finding a synchronous team can be difficult, but necessary. Holly has worked with some wonderful teams that have succeeded as a unit. Good communication and trust between one another are key. “They need to be like half of your brain” mentions Holly.

Even with great preparation and multiple options, sometimes the director has a change of idea or a shift in the direction for the scene and it is up to the designer to adapt quickly. “At the very last possible second someone will ask you for something that seems impossible, and you just have to make it happen somehow,” states Holly. The importance of attention to detail and stamina as qualities to have on set as well as the ability to be good with things changing on a dime.

Holly tells a story from on set where her team “had 20 corset options for a character and at the last minute at like 10 pm the night before shooting at 7 am, the director and showrunner said the corset had to be white. The only colour we didn’t have… so 3 of us had to stay up and sew a white corset from scratch using stuff that we had around the office, like we cut apart a dress to make it!”

She loves the opportunity to make something out of nothing, or source something last minute. It keeps the job interesting for her and it allows Holly to use her great creativity to solve problems. It is a very demanding part of the job, but her favourite.

Film styling plays an indispensable role in the art of cinema by creating characters through clothing. It is a tedious task to breathe such life into a story through costuming. Next time you watch a movie or TV show, I hope you can take a moment to appreciate the costume and styling choices. Behind these looks are people like Holly, who work thoughtfully to immerse you, the viewer into the story being told.

Service pieces for Oh, George! December 2023

The five pieces that have been chosen for publication in December 2023 are:

Lolita Lore

Indulgent Finds

5 Tips for Staying Warm and Stylish

Sipping and Thrifting

Elevate Your Style

Any of the other pieces may be considered for the Feature section, or foe the Last Look page.

Elevate Your Style: Master the Art of Accessorizing

Accessories are everywhere, they are the cherry on top of every outfit. They range from fun earrings and necklaces to traditional cultural wear. Accessories have been around since human civilization.Whether it was for protection or to show royalty and riches, people have made accessories a staple in their day-to-day wear.

Making or breaking an outfit!

Belts, bags and big earrings. These are all contributing factors to elevating your outfits. Having a statement piece in an outfit like a sparkly bag or vintage belt can turn a basic outfit into high fashion instantly. With the rise of the model off duty look, the line between classic and cool can be blurry. Accessorizing an outfit can look like adding chunky jewelry, using ribbon for your shoelaces, attaching bows to a purse, choosing a sleek pair of sunglasses, or a headband instead of pushing your hair behind your ears. Accessories are an essential part of an outfit, it’s not just about the clothes. Expressing yourself through accessories can put a personal touch to every look.

Exploring your accessory haven: where to find them?

Accessorising is easy, knowing where to look for it, now that’s challenging. When picking accessories you want things that not everyone is going to have. Expression through jewelry is a great way to make an outfit more fun but jewelry can be expensive. Your local thrift store is always an extraordinary place to find cheap unique finds. Accessories don't end with jewelry, instruments like bags or hair clips are always a sure way to catch someone's eye. Looking in your

parents closet is a hack that proves itself useful when searching for these. You could have vintage gems hiding just down the hall collecting dust. When in doubt, you can buy whatever’s trending from the hottest designer but that’s never any fun is it? Look for accessories everywhere, make up your own! The best finds are the ones that have a personal touch.

Accessorize like a pro:

With adding a personal touch it’s hard to feel like you’re doing it right, especially when there are so many celebrities that look so effortless doing it. Finding a style that works for you can boost not just your outfit but your confidence. Finding a signature accessory is a perfect way to please yourself with your look. For example, Jane Birkin and her bags or Karl Lagerfeld and his sunglasses. You can portray who and whatever you want with accessories! Stacking different types of jewelry can give a maximalist vibe to an outfit. Finding what colours feel best with your skin tone can also make you look more put together. Try different golds and silvers and choose whatever one brightens you up and makes you feel good! There are so many different ways to find the perfect fit, allow yourself to play around until you do.

Accessorizing is easy when you let yourself experiment, fashion is all about using your outerwear to express who you are and pleasing yourself. So while using these tips as inspiration, accessorize however you want to even if the trends don’t agree.

Inspiring New Attitudes to Life from Fashion: Fashion is more powerful than you can imagine

 Long ago, one of the main reasons people wore clothes was to protect their bodies from harsh environmental conditions, and subsequently, clothing evolved into a symbol of cultural and ethnic identity. And now, with the continuous development and progress of society, fashion no longer just means clothing, it is more of a channel for people's self-expression, and at the same time leads people to look for a new attitude towards life. From inspiring individuality to promoting sustainability, fashion never stops contributing to people and the world.

Fashion embraces all shapes

Fashion has evolved to such an extent that it has helped people discard stereotypical and monolithic notions of beauty, and body shape is no longer the only criterion of beauty. Many fashion designers and brands have recognized that clothing sizes should be more inclusive and that widening the size range not only meets the daily needs of more consumers but also helps them gain confidence in their bodies. Not only that but in numerous fashion shows and advertising campaigns, models of different body types and races have come into the public eye, showing people the diversity of beauty with the unique strength of each of them, these have greatly enhanced people's awareness and inclusion of themselves and others.

Fashion embraces all cultures

Many cultures of different races are facing extinction, and with it, the loss of their traditional handicrafts, and fashion is undoubtedly a powerful channel to help them continue to pass on and promote their traditional characteristics. Fortunately, numerous fashion designers are now trying to pay tribute to the unique traditional crafts of some ethnic groups and incorporate them into modern designs. The fusion of the old and the new not only makes the design interesting but also helps these traditional crafts, which are about to disappear, to return to the public's view and promotes multi-cultural exchanges so that more people can understand and appreciate the cultural heritage and charms of various ethnic groups.

Fashion is promoting sustainable development

Promoting sustainability has become a major goal in fashion, with more and more fashion designers using organic fabrics and recyclable materials, and even developing new technologies to achieve normal production while also reducing their ecological footprint. There are also fashion brands that are making sustainable goods while at the same time taking care of eco-friendly projects to reinforce people's awareness of the environment. A lot of fashion consumers are now being positively influenced by it and are becoming more cautious in their spending decisions, they prioritize the sustainability and durability of goods rather than focusing on trends that are updated from time to time, how is this not a new attitude towards life?

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Lolita Lore: No, it doesn’t have anything to do with the book. An anatomy of one seriously frilly and fun fashion subculture

Maybe it’s happened to you. You’re at High Park to see the cherry blossoms blooming, and you’re intrigued as a gaggle of people in poofy dresses walk past. Despite its intricate appearance and myriad substyles, Lolita Fashion is easy to understand because it always follows the same basic silhouette. We break down a Lolita outfit, or coordinate, into its basic parts to demystify the style.

The Foundation

Lolita’s trademark is its voluminous skirt, achieved by wearing a petticoat of stiff tulle, organza, or organdy underneath the skirt. Silhouettes can vary from A-lines to fuller rectangle skirts, but the principle is the same: skirts in Lolita fashion are very full.

Some Lolitas also wear bloomers under their petticoats. These optional garments look like short Victorian drawers and provide modesty and extra puff.

The Main Event

 A skirt with a bodice or blouse forms the basis of Lolita Fashion. Options include a one piece dress or a jumperskirt or skirt with a blouse. A one piece (OP) is a dress with sleeves, while a jumperskirt (JSK) is a sleeveless dress. Lolita fashion is modest in terms of necklines, skirt lengths and shoulder coverage, so jumperskirts are almost always worn on top of a blouse or under a cardigan. Skirts are another versatile option, as are salopettes, which are skirts with an apron-like bodice but not a full back. Lolita dresses and skirts will have intricate prints or cute detailing, and are generally knee-length or slightly longer.

The Upper Crust

Blouses are another vital part of Lolita Fashion. Lolita blouses are very fanciful compared to their mainstream fashion counterparts, with ruffles, lace trim, puffed sleeves, and big collars. They go underneath jumperskirts or skirts. Lolitas occasionally wear cardigans over a jumperskirt for more casual looks, but they also layer them for warmth over other pieces. Coats and jackets work just like they do in mainstream fashion, but Lolita coats will have a wide skirt to accommodate the petticoat underneath. Lolitas will also wear capes that resemble those from the Victorian era.

Fancy Footwear 

Lolita socks aren’t the standard ones you get in a pack of five at Costco—they range from full tights to over-the knee to ankle socks, and might be printed to match a dress or trimmed with lace. Shoes and boots are often round-toed and might feature straps or bows. They may be flat, moderately heeled, or platformed. Vivienne Westwood’s Rocking Horse Shoe, with its curved wooden platform, serves as the inspiration for many Lolita shoe designs.

Last but not Least

A Lolita coordinate isn’t complete without some sort of hair accessory. These accessories range from the relatively simple head bow to bonnets trimmed with fake flowers and feathers. Often, Lolita Fashion brands will produce matching hair accessories, blouses, socks, skirts and dresses as a series so that they can be worn together.

Extra! Extra!

What Lolita bags might lack in carrying capacity, they make up for in whimsy. Bags often resemble objects like teddy bears, hearts, or books.

Costume jewelry in fun shapes also spices up coordinates, as do wristcuffs, which are elasticated ruffles worn on the wrist.

Parasols keep Lolitas cool on sunny days and dry on rainy ones, which is incredibly important because most Lolita dresses are dry-clean only. Lolita parasols are usually ruffled and have interesting handles.

A cutsew is a garment made of knitted fabric sewn together, like a t-shirt. Lolitas wear cutsew shirts or cardigans in more casual coordinates instead of blouses.