Monday, November 13, 2023

Beyond XXL: Is the pleasure of getting what you want in fashion industry accessible to all?

In the past decade, the fashion industry has taken a leap in terms of embracing size inclusivity and made significant strides toward challenging traditional beauty standards and promoting body positivity. After years of criticism for exclusion and lack of diversity, brands started to carry a good diversity of sizes for their merchandise. However, the fact that the fashion industry is vast and diverse, and the level of size inclusivity can vary widely among different brands, segments, and styles. With all this in consideration, consumers do feel that there is still a long way to go.

After well-known instances like one in 2016, where a well-known comedian Leslie Jones couldn’t find a designer to dress her for an event she took it out on Twitter stating the bias of the fashion industry, and many of such more. The fashion industry took a shift, in 2021 Old Navy issued a statement that they would start carrying from size 00 to 28 in-store, to cater to the needs of demands from plus size customers addressing the campaign of size inclusivity in the fashion industry. They have now started retailing these sizes in more than 70% of their physical stores, with almost 454 committing to offer the same number of sizes as offered on their online platform.

Big retailers like H&M, Athlete, and Zara, have started to strengthen their mission of inclusivity too by extending their sizes up to 6xl. Not only by carrying the assortments, these brands to show their high support to the whole campaign have also partnered with plus size models, activists, and founders to show their new avatar and to affect the changes within the industry.

Runway shows for centuries was showing stick figure model, with acclaimed “perfect” body for fashion shows. While with the whole stir in the industry after the movement big designers have embraced the change and have made progress with its body diversity and inclusions. Many plus-size runway models have paved their path on the runway for famous designers in the past decade.

With all the progress and said changes, the fashion market still has a long way to go says Aayushi Ghosh, an artist, widely known for her work in the music industry. She is a fashion enthusiast and shares her displease during her shopping trips. “Imagine going to a shop and suddenly your eyes catch a beautiful piece of cloth, and you instantly know they would have not had the same thing in your size, so you recommend that piece to the person accompanying you saying that it would look good on them, and you hyping the look while they try it on”; she elaborates.

Shopping is an experience which is quite difficult to enjoy if you are a plus size. Aayushi explains that she can never get out of a store without at least one person judging her frustration of not finding the appropriate size. Moreover, as a stage artist, it is difficult for her to find costumes too. During the interview, she recalls an incident when her stage time was canceled by the producers just because they couldn’t find a matching costume, unlike all the other participants. It breaks your morale. “there is no pleasure in shopping, it is a task for me!” she exclaimed.

Thinking thoroughly as a shopper myself, and recalling all my shopping experiences, there is no doubt about the disparity present in the fashion industry in terms of size inclusivity. How many styles that you browsed through have sizes available that exceed XXL? Very few…? Almost none…?

People do believe that progress has been made, and to a certain extent YES! But size inclusivity does not end at just including a few more sizes in the assortment. It is also creating an environment where consumers do not feel judged, bringing more looks and styles, and training the staff and sales associates to treat the consumers rightly. When it comes to high-end luxury fashion brands, they still have a very limited size to offer and a lack of diversity in their campaigns and runway shows.

The representation is also one of the issues here, there is a lack of adequate representation of diverse body types by the brands in their advertising, runway shows, and fashion campaigns. The visibility of individuals with a wide range of body shapes and sizes is needed to proudly show inclusion.

Talking about the runway models, we did mention they are embracing plus size models, but there are claims that it is just tokenism. Including a limited number of plus size models without making any substantial change in the overall business practices shows the opportunistic side of the fashion industry. In a report by Vouge released just a few months back, they showed the data comparing all the runway shows held in the fashion capitals New York, Paris, and Milan, out of all the 219 shows only 17 brands included at least 1 plus size model.

Size inclusivity in fashion brands is still more than just offering a range of styles, it is a commitment to representation, empowering, showing diversity, and making fashion accessible to everyone. And with the clear image of the industry right now, we have a long way to go.

Snap, Post, Trend: Decoding the Influence of Social Media on Fashion Culture

In the fashion world social media is one of the biggest influences in the industry, but is it slowly ruining fashion? With social media becoming one of the most prominent forms of media, it means that apps like tiktok and instagram start to rule the influence over the younger generation. Can this influence be positive? Are people still holding on to fashion before social media’s rise to fame? 

Paper or tech?

For most people over the age of 18, they remember reading magazines and waiting for the Spring/Summer collections to arrive in the mail. With the rise of technology every catalog, fashion show and even shopping is online. Although everything is easily accessible online people still seem to be holding on to print. To see if people still have a love for print I conducted a survey around the halls of George Brown. I had asked 20 students “If given a choice to buy the digital or print copy of Vogue magazine, which issue would you purchase?”. The survey results were print at 100% and digital at 0%. These results were unexpected and when asked why to a couple of students, answers were all around the same. “There is nothing like it, it’s classic, digital doesn't capture it the same”. This feels hopeful with the younger generation keeping fashion icons and fashion culture alive. It is easy to lose quality with the quantity of content being put out trying to keep up with the ever-changing trends.With all that in mind social media is the most common form of media now, yet it still sounds like print will always have a special place in fashion media.

Scroll, Shop, Repeat

With media comes influence, whether that’s good or bad. Social media apps have created the biggest influence over people with addicting content. With celebrities' influence and constant trends flowing in and out, social media can really affect people’s personal sense of style. Wearing what makes you happy isn’t always what’s trending. Seeing videos with millions of views and comments about you needing these new leggings or watching celebrities saying you can’t live without these new shoes can persuade you into thinking you really do need these things. These trends can be more harmful than you think, with people falling for these ad traps it promotes fast fashion. With shop features being added on apps like tiktok and instagram, it feeds into consumerism and promotes buying things we don’t need. People will buy and consume whatever they are told to, but impulse buying these “new tiktok leggings” that are going to end up in a landfill a couple months later is doing harm to more than just your bank account.


From Pins to Profit


With this in mind the media can be positive while promoting clothing as well. With big brands taking the spotlight social media is great for promoting niche small businesses. A lot of people can find their brand promotion a lot easier with a social media platform for marketing. For example, Cassandra Gates Co-Owner of FiercelyFeminineSwim owns a small business that relies heavily on social media marketing. Cassandra is very knowledgeable about social media’s effects on the industry and using it to her advantage. When asked Cassandra said “I was very inspired by a fellow bikini brand 437, they blew up after being posted by Kylie Jenner and after seeing how much of an impact influencers and social media has I have been directing a lot more of our energy into tiktoks and instagram.” This is an example of success because of social media and how easy it is to spread the word about new trends and brands.Cassandra has said that she has found more traffic on her website coming from her social media than anything else. Watching brands blow up overnight on tiktok has given so many platforms to small businesses and expanded the fashion industry in positive ways. There are so many ways to connect and collaborate with different creatives in the industry to get a brand out there.

Media Influence Moving Fashion Forward 

It’s no surprise when hearing about how the fashion industry isn’t always diverse. Social media is showing a wider variety of people who are into fashion with things such as modest style tips, different body types and showing there is no right or wrong way to dress. Giving a platform to different styles and new designers allow people to explore their personal style by seeing what appeals to them. An article from Meer talks about welcoming diversity in the fashion world through social media “providing a platform for people to share their own style and connect with others who have similar tastes. Social media has made it easier for people of all different backgrounds and body types to find representation and feel included in the fashion world” as written by Shania Cooper 2023. Showing that more than just a size zero can wear a tight dress is changing the fashion industry in a positive way and showing a bright future for social media in the industry.

With the multiple pros and cons it’s no denying how heavy of an influence social media has on the fashion industry. With being careful how you consume media, having access to all different types of designers, influences, shopping and styles at your fingertips can be quite useful but whether it’s swaying the industry in a positive or negative direction is something we will find out in years to come.

Fast Fashion Vs. Sustainable Fashion

The Rise Of Fast Fashion

Shopping used to be an occasional act that would be done for the season changing or the factor of outgrowing your clothes. However, shopping is now a daily/weekly activity. With the rise of fast fashion, this has caused a shorter life cycle for clothing, more trends to keep up with and cheaper clothing. But the main question of all is Why fast fashion? 

Fast fashion allows customers to shop the latest trends at a very cheap price. However, just like everything in life, it comes with a cost. Fast fashion is one of the largest contributions to pollution and resulting into exploitation of workers in third world countries. In the early 2000’s, fast fashion increased when digital shopping was at a peak. Brands such as TopShop, Zara and H&M produced knock off look alike items from expensive luxury brands and offered them at a much lower cost which allowed everyone to shop and wear the latest trends. 

The Destruction Of Fast Fashion

At the rate that fast fashion is going, we will destroy the Earth. There is so many negative effects fast fashion has on the environment such as, pollution due to the toxic textiles which will result into global warming as well as the massive waste of textiles. More than 500Kg of clothing gets wasted yearly and this is due to fast fashion. Consumers are trying to stay on top of the latest trends which is causing the product life cycle to decrease drastically.

Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion is clothing that is produced that does not have a big impact on the environment. An example of this can consist of the use of organic and natural materials, upcycling, ethical practices and many more. Not only does sustainable fashion focuses on the use of less harmful production, it also highlights ethical practices such as ensuring fair pay among the workers as well as ensuring that their work environment is safe. 

Is Sustainable Fashion The Future?

The fashion industry currently, has a huge negative impact on the environment and if we do not do anything to stop it right now, our environment and natural resources are in deep trouble. Sustainable fashion is the future, it solves all the issues we are currently facing with fast fashion. It creates a better impact on the environment by producing and using durable fabrics as well as making sure the workers are treated fairly and safe. The three top benefits of sustainable fashion are improving quality by creating durable products. With fast fashion comes a lot of consequences and one being the decrease in good quality products. However, sustainable fashion produces durable and high-quality products which results in longer life cycles which means less clothes will be wasted. Also, it also preserves the natural resources.

With the use of biodegradable and chemical free materials, we are protecting the environments natural resources like land, energy and water. Lastly, sustainable fashion is more cost effective in the long run as consumers will not need to be so much clothing as they do now. 

What Can We Do To Help

As consumers, this issue may not personally affect us right now, however, soon it will. What we can do to help is to be selective on brands we shop from, it would be more ideal to shop eco-friendly brands, as well as think about quality over quantity. There is no need to be shopping weekly and overflowing your closets and dressers, try investing into clothing with better quality so they can last longer. This will not only save you money but reduce the amount of clothes that get wasted in the landfills. Lastly, try upcycling your clothes before you think about throwing them away.