Have you ever looked in the mirror and questioned the reflection staring back at you? Have you wondered if, for example, you were in a funhouse? In a sense, you are. Distorted mirrors have often been used for optical illusions. Just like those mirrors, our view of ourselves is subjective and can be distorted. Have you compared yourself to images in a fashion magazine and thought that it is impossible for someone to really look that way, but disparaged yourself just the same? The fashion industry moguls are modern day illusionists who manipulate our perceptions of beauty to induce us to chase a phantom ideal. This can leave many of us feeling inadequate.
Body image is an important part of self esteem. Everyone should aspire to a healthy view of themselves. Why? Because a healthy body image leads to better physical and mental health and improved quality of life. As students of fashion, we need to be sensitive to the well being of the people we are serving and encourage and promote diversity. Sustainability is not the only issue facing the fashion industry.
It is well known that designers in the fashion industry prefer wraith like models to display their creations on the catwalk. Designers use these models because they believe that the clothes drape better when a model is extremely thin. Advertising also tends to showcase women that are thin and even photoshops images if they are not “ideal”. They believe that thin is what sells and are reluctant to show anything else. These models are often obviously and dangerously underweight and unhealthy. And they do not represent most ordinary women. The dress size of the average American woman is a size 16-18.
Everyday we are bombarded with an unrealistic and unattainable view of feminine and masculine beauty. There is a social cost to this phenomenon. Such images can contribute to low self-esteem, depression and sometimes, eating disorders. Dr. Stephanie Cassin, C.Psych., an Associate Professor in the Psychology Department at Ryerson University (where she specializes in, among other things, disordered eating, obesity and body image) states that, although “biology and genetics are also important, the sociocultural aspect does play a role.” We are definitely influenced by what we see in the media.
Although thin as an ideal is pervasive in the media, eating disorders are relatively rare. Nonetheless, there is strong evidence that exposure to idealized images corresponds to a negative body image. Ryerson University students, participating in an educational program on diversity called The Body Project, name appearance as their primary social concern. At its worst, negative body image can lead to illnesses such as anorexia and bulimia.
For those that do develop eating disorders, the consequences can be terrible. Anorexia is a serious, debilitating and sometimes deadly disease. It a distortion of body image so severe that even though someone is starving themselves to the point of death, they still believe they are overweight. According to Dr. Cassin, anorexia disproportionately affects females, but males can have body image issues as well.
While women are pressured to be thin, men are pressured into a muscular masculine ideal. This can lead to excessive exercise. Anorexia can lead to cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, and neurological problems and increased death rate. Binging, a related disorder, causes someone to gorge themselves on food and then promptly vomit it up. It also leads to heart problems, can damage the digestive system and lead to dehydration.
In the quest to achieve the thin ideal and obtain work, (and they are told that unless they are thin enough they will not be hired) models resort to drastic measures. At times their health is so neglected that they faint during photo shoots or end up in the hospital. Some models have eaten cotton to fill their stomach, damaging the intestinal tract. Others become permanently infertile.
The Body Positive movement has gained steam in the last few years. Its program aims to get designers and advertisers to show more diversity and more realistically represent how women in the general population look.
One brand that has embraced body positivity is Dove. Launched in 2004, their Real Beauty campaign used models more representative of the population in their advertising. Levi’s has also made an effort. Many up and coming designers have made diversity their mantra and cater primarily to a varied group of consumers.
Countries like France and Israel recently passed laws banning the use of underage and underweight models. In France, models must provide proof that they are 16 years of age and that their body mass index is above a certain threshold in order to be allowed to work. In both Israel and France, photoshopped images must have a disclaimer stating that they have been altered. Design houses such as Dior, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent have banned models that are too thin from the runway.
Has the movement been successful? Some designers still refuse to change. Victoria’s Secret recently created a scandal when one of its representatives said the company would not use plus size models. The company said that they tried using plus size models but that they received no interest. In a video discussion by Huff Post called, “Is the Body Positive Movement Just a Trend?” body positive activist Anastasia Garcia points out the demographics that such companies are neglecting. By refusing to cater to larger sizes when approximately 70% of women could not wear their product, they are missing out on a large amount of potential sales. ”Do they hate money?” she asked.
While the body positive movement encourages us to love ourselves, some feel there is a pitfall to unfettered optimism. Critics of the movement think that by telling people to accept themselves regardless, they are contributing to normalizing an overweight body that can lead to health problems. Just as with being underweight, overweight can lead to heart problems, and other health issues like diabetes.
However, Dr. Cassin thinks that any attempt to change perceptions is positive. “Anything that promotes body positivity and diversity is helpful.” Health at every size is part of the movement. Dr. Cassin remarks, ”There is a stigma that thinness equals health.” But she points out that it is possible to be thin and unhealthy, larger and healthy.
How can one maintain a healthy body image? “Body image is not an all or nothing. It is a continuum," says Dr. Cassin. It is possible for someone to like some aspects of their physical appearance and not others. Focus on your strengths, what you do like and on what your body can do. Try to avoid comparisons.
The fashion industry has a long way to go, but it is a start. It is our duty as responsible citizens to make a positive impact on our world. With growing awareness, hopefully designers of the future will heed the call. And choose to represent diversity in their work.
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