DIOR DREAMWORLD ON DISPLAY

Step inside the world of the iconic couturier house at Toronto’s Royal Ontario Museum

Toronto has been graced with an awe-inspiring and exclusive exhibition. The highly anticipated expo showcases ten years of Dior’s masterful creations. The Royal Ontario Museum has teamed up with Dior, Paris’ own fashion house for a groundbreaking showcase, highlighting Dior’s works from 1947 to 1957.

In the age of Instagram, we are constantly living life through a flattened screen. Alexandra Palmer, Senior Curator of Textiles and Costume at the ROM, hopes to engage the audience in a different way. The exhibition will expand people's knowledge of the complexities of fashion. The exhibition is there to look closely at how the clothes were made, and the ateliers behind it and what it is that makes each piece so special.

In celebration house’s 70th anniversary, the exhibition, Christian Dior, explores the creations that brought couturier homes back to life after the war. Between those years is where Monsieur Dior earned his staple in the fashion industry with his groundbreaking feminine cuts. The masterful tailoring became Christian Dior’s New Look—a revolutionary style with full-bodied skirts and soft slender shoulders. “The strength of our collection here, is the post-war period” shares Palmer.

Over 40 looks on display, arranged thematically, stand proudly in glass cases allowing ROM visitors to get up close and personal with the intricate detail and original embroidery. “The dresses are posed from daytime to late afternoon, dinner and cocktail” reveals Alexandra Palmer.

On November 22nd, 2017 media, who’s who of Toronto's fashion and art scene and lifetime Dior collectors were invited to an intimate preview of the exhibit. All gowns in this exposition were donated from high society, each and every dress told it’s own story. The gowns came from some of the best-dressed women and socialites from Montreal and Toronto. The list of donors includes Mrs John David Eaton. The first Dior piece given to the museum came from Mrs Eaton in 1956. A two-piece dinner dress from the Autumn-Winter 1948 Ailee Line called, Nocturne. Beautiful embroidery samples were graciously on lend from three French embroidery firms: Rébé form Musee du Pays Rabastinois, Maison Hurel, and Ginisty from Christian Dior Héritage.

The name Christian Dior in internationally known. But what most people don’t see is what goes on behind the doors of the courtier house. The retrospective pays tribute to those artists who built the masterpieces. Original archives of silk samples and painted prints are proudly displayed in immaculate condition. Attendees are able to take a glimpse at the create processes before the pieces come to life. “[Guests] look at the experiments in pattern designs and how to create new silhouettes,” says Alexandra “In fashion, you can really spend time making these experiments.”

A garment seen throughout the show is one of Dior's most recognised and famous pieces of that era, the corset. Women in that period were fed up with the masculine suitings and stiff work attire. It was then; Monsieur Dior reintroduced dresses that were made to make women feel like women again.The 1950s became a transformation in the power of fashion. Dior swept away the masculine style and replaced them with the ultra femme silhouette. “It was all presented as a complete package that knocked everyone's socks off” Alexandra shares “It was true magic, the Dior corset was a part of that and why everything worked.”

A number of accessories on display feature the original Dior stamp branded perfumes and lipsticks, to name a few. Shoes, ribbons and elegant gloves, also on lend from several private lenders. Archives of Dior in the press were scattered effortlessly in several casings. Another extremely special piece graciously donated is a one of a kind bat mitzvah dress made exclusively by Monsieur Dior himself in 1957. The dress is fit for a princess with a full skirt and daffodil embroidery.

Technology was there to assist visitors, with a modern touch. Ipads were available to allow guests learn more about the pieces on display. Photographs of the technical sketches showed detail of the construction and well as photos and stories about the women who wore the dresses. A guest in attendance, Lillian Weiss, at the age of 97 stood confidently in front of her dress. The dress was called Batignolles, after the neighbourhood in Paris. Images on the Ipad showed her wearing dress in a nightclub in Cambridge, Ontario. “I hope I haven't aged!” she laughs.

This permanent collection located in the Patricia Harris Gallery is ranked amongst the top three collections in the world for fashion in textiles. Alexandra Palmer hopes to share her knowledge and passion for Dior. “Dior is like champagne, it gets better with age and come from a French land.” says Palmer. Toronto is given a gift filled with romance and history. The exposition sheds light on the many layers and creativity in the industry that fall beneath the name and highest house of couture, Christian Dior.

Please, sell your stunning H&M

Please, sell your stunning H&M

When I was in middle school, the majority of my friends admire classmates who wore fancy brands which are designer name brands or high-quality products brands. Just observing the people on the street these days, most people look good, even though they are students. It indicates that fashion style has been changing, but the correct meaning is to buy luxury brand’s clothes would not difficult as before I did. How? Just a decade ago, SPA brans were not launched as many as nowadays did. However, several SPA brands are in the malls, and the number of this type of stores is getting increased. Thus, who does not know about there is lots of SPA brands at the malls? I think customer wants to know how it has relevance to people that can buy expensive brands easier than past. The secret is a collaboration between a SPA brand and a designer.

H&M has been working with several designers that are Jimmy choo, Viktor & Rolf, Roberto Cavalli, Stella McCartney, Sonia Rykiel and so on. These lines are selling at H&M stores, but special designers who I mentioned design the products and even labels are separated from H&M. The important fact is that they just sell only one time at the specific time worldwide. The funny thing is last year I was on the line in front of H&M to buy Kenzo collaboration. Unfortunately, the price cannot be same as the normal price of products, but the consumers can buy high designer’s garments with several times lower cost than their name value. As buying those products, customers would be showing off their new clothes to the friends, colleges, or could relieve stress by themselves as I used to. Furthermore, collaboration process makes them unique and makes high selling. Beckman was interviewed with BoF “yet collaborations are as powerful as ever. Just look at the success of brands like Supreme and Adidas, for whom collaborations have been a critical component of success. For years I thought this trend would slow down but it’s not at all. I think the reasons these partnerships will continue to go forward is predominantly because the advent of technology in manufacturing and in communications means the retailer really needs to fight to capture the attention of the consumer now”. This situation seems like that led all people to make better and improve the quality of life, and also bring into the fashion industry. But it would bring drawbacks at some part of this trend to some people.

    Have you ever sold second-hand clothes? I am pretty sure that many people have experienced; to reduce their packages when they move to a new house, or just do not want to wear anymore. However, recently, we call reseller who sells name valued used products. Who are they exactly? for example, a customer or a company buys any garments, bag, accessories which they think that these could have royalty in the future, and they add some value of the price for making a profit, then sell again in several websites. However, who can judge which product has a special value to sell again? How do they know about it? This way to make the profit would be good for the brands? Making a new line with a high value of designers can come with marketing with celebrities. Basically, people love the celebrities and want to follow the trends. If a celebrity wears one of the trends items which is a designer brand, I am pretty sure that people would try hard to find the same item. What if the items are limited editions as I explained? The situation will go in a different way for the consumers. That is why reseller can sell the second-hand garment; although the clothes is never worn because people want to buy it because they cannot buy it anymore at any stores. Moreover, the company tries to produce better quality as they collaborate with luxury brand and designer, and it is people would expect the result. To be honest, the quality is not enough as their name value. Why? The reason is the collaboration brands belong their brand, so they must use target age, maxim price, marketing as they used to do.

Collaboration system has been increasing and it is still working on it. Just need to advance how will be more creative, attract consumers, and how to improve their producing skill gradually.

“The retailer really needs to fight to capture the attention of the consumer now” - Kristina Stenvinkel, H&M Group communications director

     

   

Stand together

An odd feeling was brewing across campus at the beginning of October. It was almost like there was a giant pink elephant wandering around campus that no one wanted to address. I heard a few professors mention the strike, encouraging us to continue our school work if a strike were to happen, but it seemed that no one wanted to directly address the strike. The elephant in the room did not get addressed until the middle of October. On October 15th, George Brown sent out an email informing students and staff that the strike was about to begin.

At first I was not too concerned - a week off, I thought, it gives me some time to catch up on school work. Maybe this strike wouldn’t be such a bad thing. By the third week, however, I felt differently about the situation. I began to worry, knowing that my graduation would not be in June if the semester did not resume soon. I worried about my financial situation, whether or not it was safe to pick up shifts or if school would resume. As I read each news article that popped up online my worries grew, the union and the college council had not yet sat down together.

According to Global News, international students were told by immigration officials that they would not be penalized, assuring them that it would be possible to extend their visas. But for international students who only are able to work 20 hours a week on a student visa or students who moved to Toronto for school, or any other students paying rent while the strike continued, reassurance that the college had a contingency plan was not very reassuring. Throughout the strike I was told by students that some were hesitant on returning home for a visit knowing they would only receive two business days notice if college were to resume, others saying that if they did not return back to school this semester that they would not continue with their education. While students were being disproportionately impacted by the strike, there were obvious reasons motivating the strikes insurgence - faculty members were clearly dissatisfied.

What was that odd feeling that had been brewing, that pink elephant in the room that no one wanted to address across George Brown campus? As I looked for answers to this I started to uncover a sense of frustration and dissatisfaction amongst faculty members. As Simona Chiose explained in a piece published by the Globe and Mail, Ontario Public Service Employees Union (OPSEU), the union that represents colleges across Ontario, wanted to see the number of part time teachers reduced and the allocation of job security more fairly distributed.

OPSEU raised their concerns to the College Employer Council and an unfortunate decision was made. The College Employer Council was not willing to negotiate. Greatly dissatisfied by this decision, the faculty took a stand. As Resh Budhu, a college faculty member, explained, her participation in the strike was motivated by a staggering increase in precarious employment and what it does for the job security of her faculty. Similar concerns have been expressed across Ontario campuses.


The concerns raised by faculty members across Ontario college campuses are valid. Unfair and unsustainable employment policies are widespread in most post-secondary institutions across Canada. But the strike did not only impact college faculty members, the students were also greatly affected by the strike. Added stress permeates the student body, as students and faculty members have to make up for lost time by trying to fit an already tight curriculum into an even tighter time frame. This impossible task forces students to learn from a compressed curriculum that they did not sign up for and thus did not pay for. The length of time that has elapsed exacerbates this already stressful time. As students scramble to try to get back into the swing of things after being away from school for over thirty days. Not only has our learning momentum been disrupted, it has also become increasingly hard to get motivated and continue working. Additionally, the stress of the strike becomes especially pertinent to those who only have accommodations booked until the end of the year. Further, students who have already made plans over the holidays and winter break, or booked trips at the end of the April, are now faced with new time constraints that limit the time they have to visit their families and friends. As a result, resentment among the student body is growing.

Now imagine being treated so unfairly that you decide not to return to school. You voice your opinion on what is bothering you and you get an offer that does not address anything that you initially voiced. The College Employer Council made OPSEU an offer but as explained by Andrea Janus for CBC news, the union countered the offer as the concessions undermined any possibility of improving conditions for workers. A vote was held and 86 percent voted in favor of rejecting the offer. Following the vote, the provincial government passed a back-to-work legislation ending the five week strike. Although the legislation was passed, forcing teachers back to work and salvaging students semesters, for the faculty there problem was not resolved. NDP leader Andrea Horwath explained that they still have a broken college system to deal with where seventy percent of the faculty do not earn decent wages, seventy percent are working part-time and contract work, which is not the best for us, the students, in terms of our quality of education.

If you are still feeling personally victimized by the strike, I urge you to consider that not only did the faculty strike for themselves and their jobs but they also went on strike for us, the students. OPSEU put out a statement on their website explaining that the faculty stands with the students. They took a stand not only for their job security but also so that we, the students, do not feel like all that awaits us, following the completion of our post secondary education, is an uncertain life in a “part-time gig” economy.

An Employee AND Entrepreneur: Escape to Company Loyalty

Coal Miner’s Daughter – The Important Role of an Employee

When thinking of the topic “Escape”, an instant thought for myself is retail therapy. One of the most individualistic places that came to mind was a charming boutique called “Coal Miner’s Daughter”. Something about the store’s Down Town Toronto location allows the customer to feel detached from the world as if they’ve entered a whimsical place where all clothing and jewelry is beautiful and ethically produced – that’s an escape if I’ve ever heard one. I reached out to the company and instantly received a response within the same day. I had the opportunity to meet with an assistant buyer for the company, Cassandra, a new Assistant Buyer that also maintains her older position working as an Assistant Manager. Yes, you read that right, she upholds two positions at Coal Miner’s Daughter, both of which are very contrasting. Cassandra said it has been difficult detaching herself emotionally from the new role as a buyer. She told me, “It’s hard to buy items you really like while trying to please the customer, it’s almost impossible to buy something that everyone is going to love as much as you do.” Since she started out as the Assistant Manager for the Queen Street location, she’s used to selling product day to day, the adjustment comes when a customer critiques your decision as Buyer. 

In meeting with Cassandra, I’ve learned that an individual can contribute so much more than just one role to a company. Often employees get promoted, very rarely do they get promoted while still maintaining their old position within the same company. “I was offered the retail position first, from then I started buying a bit for the company. Which I really like having a say in what I sell in the store”. As someone who is actively in the store, it is important that the employees are selling products that they love.

I learned that Cassandra has so many additional opportunities in fashion – especially with her experience, although she does not currently possess any qualifications or previous education, her ability to adapt exceeds any limitations. A position like “Assistant Buyer” is a dream for many in the fashion and retail world, for Cassandra this has become a reality within a year. When asked if she ever thought she’d become an Assistant Buyer, Cassandra responded “No, I never really took fashion or retail to be a serious option. I initially took this job as the Assistant Manager then I gained more responsibility throughout.”  A buyer does not just have to be a buyer, they can work in retail, visual merchandising, design, textiles, and public relations and so on” Cassandra explained, “it is important to know what the customer wants and by being a part of the creative and business side, it makes it easier to reach a target market and sell cohesively”.  The unique chain of three boutiques called “Coal Miner’s Daughter” located in the GTA is owned by Janine Haller and Krysten Caddy, who have worked with and mentored Cassandra for three years now, “it’s a lot of fun…I’ve worked with the owners, Janine Haller and Krysten Caddy, and they’re really cool. I like the environment and the creative vision they have for the store”.

In the modern age of retail many employees work for companies and brands that they don’t personally believe in. It’s refreshing to hear an employee genuinely excited and passionate about the success of their employer. A lot of this may have to do with Cassandra’s promotion, regardless, the trust and ability to create such a positive space to work in is something many companies should take note of. Not only is the Coal Miner’s Daughter boutique an escape for the customer, but also for the employees. The opportunity to thrive and be excited is constant, the owner’s, Janine Haller and Krysten Caddy, encourage individuality to better their company every day. The company predominantly promotes Canadian designers and have handpicked every international designer based on design and ethics of their sourcing. The individuality of the brand has always been a main focus as well as quality. Cassandra has the same creative vision for the store as the owners, which can turn an employee into an entrepreneur. 

When we buy cheap clothes and accessories made in developing countries, are we supporting a developing economy or taking advantage of underpaid workers?

Fast fashion has become engrained in our society and being current is now weekly, versus previously seasonally. Cheap clothes, shoes, and accessories have become a must to keep up with these trends. The cost of these clothes make consumers able to rid their closest of last weeks styles just as fast as they made the decision to buy it, which in turn leads to more purchases. This obsession by society to have the newest, latest and greatest is inexpensive but comes at a high ethical price. There are two sides to every argument. Are these cheap fashion items being made in developing countries taking advantage of and exploiting people, or are these fashion companies providing jobs and a better economy for a struggling society?

In the western world it has become well known that many large corporations outsource their factory operations to China. There have been many movements over the years to boycott clothes made in China, or for that matter, anything made in China. However, on April 24, 2013 a factory in Bangladesh collapsed killing more than 1,130 people. Many people in the western world had no idea that potentially every piece of clothing they were purchasing was being made not in China but in places such as Bangladesh, Vietnam, or India. Bangladeshi journalist Zafar Sobhan commented, it is this dehumanizing, soul-destroying, exploitative trade that has provided employment to over 3 million impoverished Bangladeshis, the vast majority of them women, and utterly transformed the economic and social landscape of the country. In the 40 years since independence, the poverty rate has plummeted from 80 percent down to less than 30 percent today, GDP growth has averaged around 5-6 percent for over 20 years, and the garment industry has had a lot to do with it. This statement within itself is conflicting. He states that it is dehumanizing, soul-destroying, and exploitative but then touches on the positive it has done for the economy.

This shines light on the fact that there are two reasons for concern pertaining to overseas factories. The human rights side which only looks at how the workers are being treated and paid; and the business side which only looks at how the economy of the country may actually be improving by the factory being there, as well as being financially efficient for the company employing the workers. Comparing the two is in some sense a conflict of interest. As the workers work longer hours, make less money, and take fewer breaks, the margins of the business strengthen and the business owner in turn makes more money. On the flip side the more workers are paid and more time off they are given, the smaller the margins become and the business grows less efficient. However, looking at the sides as a whole is the only way these issues could have a resolution.

Benjamin Powell and David Skarbek have become known as sweatshop experts. They state that numerous studies have shown that multinational firms pay more than domestic firms in Third World countries. Economists who criticize sweatshops have responded that multinational firms’ wage data do not address whether sweatshop jobs are above average because many of these jobs are with domestic subcontractors. We compare apparel industry wages and the wages of individual firms accused of being sweatshops to measures of the standard of living in Third World economies. We find that most sweatshop jobs provide their workers an above average standard of living. This data only supports the economics of the activity it does not address the possibility of these workers not being compensated. There are also dangers of the job that would require health benefits to pay for health care due to work place injuries or sicknesses. Powell and Skarbek go on to dicuss that most of the scholarly work on sweatshops is not done by an economist but a human rights activist. Again, providing only one view of the situation. Acitivists while not wrong that there are human rights and ethical issues with these sweatshops can tend to look at the situation with a narrow scope. Writing their scholarly articles on computers, with access to anything and everything. They assume that because they have a better alternative to working in a sweatshop that so must the people working in these sweatshops. But in many cases, that is wrong pointed out by Zafar Sobhan. These factories are actually improving many aspects of the country.

Gethin Chamberlain in Bengaluru who reports on human rights reported that workers in a high end clothing factory in India are paid so little that an entire months worth of wages could not purchase even one of the garments they are producing. Chamberlain reports on statements from women testifying to being treated worse than animals, physically and verbally abused. These women also state that the reason for this treatment was due to not meeting work quotas, which in turn resulted in loss of wages. In the western world, if you continually underperformed at your job, you would eventually be fired. Abuse is wrong; however dealing with underperformance of employees is necessary in any business.

 In the western world it is the companies obligation to treat and pay all workers fairly adhering to national standards. If there was a problem an employee could contact human resources. However, human resources does not exist for these wronged factory workers and that is why it has become an international topic of discussion. The debate continues, are these cheap fashion items being made in developing countries taking advantage of and exploiting people, or are these fashion companies providing jobs and a better economy for a struggling society?

Fearless and Fresh, an in-depth look at the woman who has done it all: Interviewing Erin Kleinberg

Erin Kleinberg is a fearless leader and an absolute girl boss, amongst many other things. She is not your mainstream local celebrity; however, she has accomplished an astounding amount for her age. Erin founded three successful companies all before the age of 30. She started a womenswear line Erin Kleinberg Inc., co-founded The Coveteur a behind the scenes fashion and beauty site that is known for their closet editorials. Currently, Erin works at a digital marketing and creative branding agency that she co-founded called Métier Creative.

Erin graduated from Western University with a Bachelors of Arts in Media, Information and Technoculture. While at Western, she ran their fashion show, which taught her everything she needed to know to start her career in the fashion industry. Erin said, “I knew I loved fashion and this opportunity let me see all the potential I had to succeed in the fashion industry.”

According to Erin, getting your foot in the door when any opportunity arises is extremely important. She said, “Networking is everything and starting early will just help you in the long run.” She later started working at Holt Renfrew as a personal shopping assistant and shortly after founded her first company, Erin Kleinberg INC. Her clothing line was widely successful selling at Barney’s, Holt Renfrew, Saks Fifth Avenue and many other department stores. Erin shared, “When I went to Barney’s and my clothes were on the 8^th floor I knew I truly made it.”

        After realizing her potential in the industry Erin co-founded The Coveteur. It started as a fun website that was inspired by the Social Network. It was known as her, “Passion project” but is now currently a world-renowned fashion and beauty website. The Coveteur is known for its photography, award winning writing and intimate looks at luxurious lifestyle. Erin classifies it as an, “Epic experience.” It also gives their readers a behind the scenes look at all things fashion, beauty, health, wellness, travel and lifestyle.

After working at The Coveteur for 3 years she decided to start Métier Creative because she felt that there was a gap in the industry when it came to marketing and branding for companies. They are known as the cool tour guide for luxury fashion, beauty and lifestyle brands. Métier Creative helps companies transition traditional advertising into fully integrated social media marketing campaigns. Métier Creative’s focus is to understand the relationship with their influencers and brands to ensure that their clients are happy. They want their clients to get the best experience, proving that any company can make, “Something from nothing.”

Métier Creative was one of the first agencies to start signing digital influencers and continues to have impressive clients including Ouai, Tiffany & Co, J Brand, and Stuart Weitzman. Erin’s all-female company consists of full time employees, interns and freelancers. They provide many services to their clients such as: influencer activation, initial ideation, casting, styling, photography, post production, copywriting, communications strategy and much more.

Since social media is constantly changing Métier needs to ensure that all their work is up to date and standards by “Constantly trolling all over social networks we live it, breathe it, sleep it- we are those girls who are influenced by influencer marketing”. For each of their clients, they want to tell their story that feels unique and different from other brands. No day is the same for Erin, as each day brings new challenges and opportunities which keeps her job very satisfying. Her job revolves around being with her team to ensure they are happy and excited about their work.

Erin’s day to day life is very busy. In addition to being the co-founder of her company, she is also a loving mother which remains her top priority. Her life revolves around balancing the things that are most important to her, family and work. Despite having a luxurious house in Toronto, she continues to travel to ensure her business is constantly evolving globally.

Having all US based clients means Erin is regularly travelling between New York, Miami and LA.  One of Métier’s sayings is, “We know what women want, we know what millennials want. We really are the customers.” This shows how much they care about their business and the work it takes to give their clients and consumers what they want. They go great lengths to ensure that the work they are doing is not only stylish but also relevant and fun.

Erin Kleinberg is a great example of an exceptional woman who prides herself in her hard work. She had always said to herself, “if you can’t find the right job, make it.” This shows how dedicated and fearless she was. Although Erin might not be exceptionally famous or very well known, her drive and passion for great work is truly inspiring. She believed in herself when others doubted her and was able to create a business through finding a gap that she could fix in the fashion industry. Erin is truly inspiring and someone we should all look up to when we doubt are future because if you work towards something you love it can be done.