In 1972, David Bowie shaved his eyebrows, put on eyeshadow, smeared his flamboyant lipstick, stepped on high heels and donned a bodysuit, appearing as Ziggy Stardust, a gender-neutral came from Mars. While play and singing psychedelic music in his pyrotechnics style, he heralded the arrival of ornate rock and ushered in a new gender era. Since then, David Bowie became the father of the androgynous. Moreover, Ziggy Stardust, the androgynous figure has been influencing menswear and fashion.
Unisex — The Aesthetic Revolution In Fashion World
After more than 40 years, the idea of unisex is in vogue. Whether classic brand or new-popular street fashion advocate the concept of "gender free" in the design.Designers take the advantage of the concept of "no gender" to make their design no longer distinguished by male and female, or limited by gender, which brings more freedom for the spread of fashion.
The epidemic of unisex starts with "Normcore". Normcore advocates a simple, neutral style. In the constant evolution of fashion, gender neutral has evolved to be unisex, but there is still a difference between gender-neutral design and the neutral style that Normcore's emphasis. The "neutral" design style lies between male and female clothing and has no obvious gender characteristics. Besides the "neutral", the "non-gender" also covers the "androgynous" and "gender transformation". The design style is no longer blindly minimalism, but also prefers to recombine the design elements with obvious gender characteristics.
What Is Your Fashion Gender?
The show of combining men and women's catwalk is a landmark event in the renovation of fashion week. After Gucci announced the integration of men's and women's fashion shows, Alessandro Michele, the brand design director, said: "For me, it's natural to show men's and women's collections together, and that's how I look at the world today; It's certainly not a smooth path and certainly will bring some challenges, but I firmly believe it will push me to tell fashion stories in a different way." As more and more brands have joined the chorus of men's and women's fashion shows, there are voices of opposition as well as voice of support.
Those who agree think, this is a time of great change in the fashion industry as well as a time when ideas are needed and embraced. It's a bold attempt to make the entire fashion industry more efficient. It can also be an interesting challenge for buyers. As brands ponder how to reduce the cost of fashion week and improve the function of fashion shows, the combination of men's and women's fashion design is undoubtedly a good way to simplify. At least from the economic point of view, unisex is necessary.
However, opposing voices argue that unisex is the bane of fashion creativity. If fashion stylists want to do excellent job, the traditional way is the right choice.
High-profile AGENDER Brands
After Androgyny, less aggressive words appeared accordingly. Last year, Selfridges proposed the concept of "Agender", which means to directly design gender-neutral items that can be worn by both sexes without presetting gender. Which means people don't need to buy "boyfriend jeans" or "boyfriend sweaters" at all, because that's actually oversize for women. It's actually a much more modest fashion trend. When people go out wearing a Vetements or Yeezy, there is no need to have presupposition in mind that someone else would use it to judge gender. This is a kind of gender-neutral trend selection, which itself does not express any attitudes about gender. In fact, it means a variety of absolute relaxation and freedom, because the wearers do not need to express themselves as tomboy by wearing men's clothing, nor do they need to go to the direction of women's clothing style to dramatically exaggerate the status of a male homosexuality.
Simply put, people no longer need to use external material to help with their gender identity. Unisex has become a completely neutral term. Unisex is actually far more common than public thought. When unisex breaks away from the over-discussion and understanding of gender, the consumption of unisex becomes direct and unhesitating.
Deveaux'sfall/winter 2018 collection, featuring New York street photographer Tommy Ton as artistic director, which is themed around the idea of "gender free," attempt to break down the inherent boundaries between men's and women's wear. In the new menswear collection, Deveaux still emphasizes the concept of "no gender," with loose silhouettes and soft decorative details that can be worn by both men and women. The filmed of Look Book specially USES Janice Alida to explain the brand's gender-free concept.
"Since black can also be as soft and transparent as chiffon, why should the aesthetics of men's and women's clothing have a clear boundary to define?", in the words of ANN DEMEULEMEESTER. For the spring/summer 2019 men's fashion show, Sebastien Meunier, the current creative director, presents a "gothic ceremony". The veil is partly hidden, and the gender is distorted by translucent veil. Under the brim of a creased hat, only vague contour levels can be seen. The classic black and white color scheme, asymmetrical deconstruction and clipping, and the male model holding the black rose and lace gloves, all have a type of beauty beyond gender.
Reina, a fashion designer who has a special sense for "unisex fashion". She graduated from Shanghai DongHuaUniversity and has a deep research on unisex fashion. Previously, she studied in Japan for further study on gender free. In addition, she completed a series of design works independently.
Q: What is Unisex fashion?
Reina: I think it is a kind of self-attitude that breaks the inherent concept of gender dress, dares to be oneself, and integrates the concept of "androgyny" and "gender transformation".
Q: Why choose unisex as design concept?
Reina：My inspiration comes from social phenomenon which is gradually blurring between male and female. In Woolf's words, "great souls are androgynous," it may be innate that we can't choose appearance or bodies, but souls can. Therefore, I want to help people better show their literal self through my design.
Q: How does unisex show up in everyday life?
Reina: For example, today I wear a tie. It may be stereotypical that a tie should be worn with a suit, but nowadays more and more girls like to try some tie-ups. For example, boys wear skirts and girls wear men's suits, which are more or less the reflection of gender free fashion in life. Because usually I also like to buy men's suit jacket and tie or pants with a big waist. Everyone can try a lot of things that might have unexpected benefits. Don't worry too much about what others think, just do what you want to do.
Our times are more and more respectful of gender diversity, tending toward gender equality. Even for young people, unisex is simply their innate mental model. After all, they have grown up in an era when Facebook has 56 unconventional gender settings.
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