Thursday, November 07, 2024

Luxury’s Dirty Secrets: Scandals That Expose Fashion’s Dark Side

The luxury fashion industry is often synonymous with elegance, prestige, and exclusivity. But behind the glitz and glam lies a world stained by scandals, raising questions about ethics, authenticity, and sustainability.

The allure of luxury fashion is undeniable. Names like Gucci, Loro Piana, and 

Hermès have built empires on aspirational beauty and exclusivity. Yet, the 

industry has faced scandals that have shocked even the most devoted fans. 

From controversial ad campaigns and accusations of cultural appropriation to

environmental neglect and labor issues, these incidents reveal the complex, 

and often troubling part of high-end fashion we often look to for inspiration.


Cultural Missteps and Tone-Deaf Campaigns

Despite their global reach, some luxury brands have repeatedly 

stumbled into controversy due to culturally insensitive designs and 

advertising campaigns. One notable example is Gucci, which faced backlash 

in 2019 for a balaclava knit sweater that many said resembled blackface. 

The protest was quick and widespread, with customers and activists 

condemning the brand for a lack of cultural awareness. According to the NPR,

Gucci responded with an apology, a product recall, and a promise to create 

initiatives to improve diversity and cultural sensitivity within the company. 

However, the incident highlighted the industry’s disconnect from the 

communities it often draws inspiration from.

Another infamous case is Dior’s 2021 ad campaign promoting its 

Sauvage fragrance, which featured imagery inspired by Native American 

culture. The campaign included actor Johnny Depp dressed in traditional 

Indigenous attire, with a backdrop of a Native American dancer. Many 

accused Dior of perpetuating stereotypes and exploiting Indigenous culture 

for profit. After significant public backlash, as reported by WWD Dior pulled 

the campaign and apolgized, but the damage was already done. This 

incident served as a cautionary tale for brands failing to collaborate 

authentically with the cultures they borrow from.

Sustainability and Environmental Responsibility


While luxury brands have embraced sustainability as a buzzword, their 

environmental records are often inconsistent. Highlighted by BBC News,

Burberry made headlines in 2018 for destroying over $36 million worth of 

unsold products to protect its brand's exclusivity and avoid markdowns. The 

eye-opening actions caused widespread outrage, with environmental 

activists and consumers condemning the brand's wasteful practices. Giving 

into pressure, Burberry announced it would stop burning unsold merchandise

and pledged to become more sustainable. Yet, critics argued that this 

response was reactive rather than proactive, raising doubts about the 

sincerity of the brand's environmental commitments.

Labor and Manufacturing Practices

The stark divide between luxury fashion's branding and the conditions 

under which products are made has been exposed repeatedly. Investigations 

have revealed that some luxury products by Prada, labeled "Made in Italy" 

are produced under exploitative conditions, as reported by Tracy Wilkinson 

for Los Angeles Times. In one case, Chinese immigrants in Tuscany were 

found working long hours in unsafe factories, producing leather goods for 

major fashion houses. These workers were paid significantly less than Italy’s 

legal minimum wage, revealing a harsh reality behind the luxury price tags. 

Such revelations have sparked calls for stricter labor regulations and greater 

corporate accountability.

Recent investigations led by Milan’s court, reported by Emilio Parodi for

Reuters, have exposed labor exploitation in the luxury fashion supply chain, 


implicating suppliers for brands like LVMH and Armani. Reports revealed that 

workers, often undocumented immigrants, endured hazardous conditions, 

long shifts, and meager pay to produce high-end goods. For instance, some 

were paid just a few euros an hour, while the handbags they made sold for 

thousands. Fabio Roia, head of Milan’s court system, urged luxury firms to 

strengthen oversight and cultural responsibility. Milan’s court findings, as 

discussed in an April 13, 2020 piece by The Independent, have urged for 

more oversight from these brands.

As reported by Sandra Lopez for Remezcala, Loro Piana, a brand 

celebrated for its luxurious cashmere and rare Vicuña wool, has come under 

fire for allegations involving the mistreatment of Peruvian Indigenous 

communities responsible for Vicuña wool production. The brand has failed to 

pay fair wages to these workers, prompting backlash from human rights 

groups and concerned consumers. Known as "the fabric of the gods," Vicuña 

wool is subject to strict sourcing regulations, yet accusations of exploitation 

persist. This controversy emphasizes the need for more ethical and 

transparent practices in luxury fashion.

Animal Rights

Hermès has faced intense scrutiny for its treatment of animals in the 

production of crocodile and alligator skins used for their iconic Birkin bags. A 

PETA investigation revealed disturbing practices, including keeping reptiles in

tiny cages and slaughtering them under brutal conditions. The New York 


Times, on July 28, 2015, detailed how the scandal erupted into public view. 

This caused Jane Birkin, the British actress and singer after whom the Birkin 

bag is named, to request that her name be dissociated from the product until

Hermès could guarantee ethical practices.

Hermès defended its practices by stating that they have established 

strict animal welfare standards and work closely with suppliers to ensure 

humane conditions. The company vowed to conduct regular audits and 

implement improvements where necessary. Jane Birkin later reinstated her 

name association with the brand after Hermès assured her of the changes. 

However, the incident underscored the ongoing concerns about animal 

welfare in luxury fashion, sparking further debate on whether using exotic 

skins is justifiable in today’s more ethically conscious world.

These scandals tear away the glossy facade of luxury fashion, exposing

a world where cultural insensitivity, environmental harm, labor exploitation, 

and animal cruelty still exist. With consumers increasingly demanding ethical

practices, luxury brands are at a turning point: they must embrace 

transparency and prioritize sustainability or risk tarnishing their elite status. 

True luxury should not come at the cost of human rights, the environment, or

cultural respect. Moving forward, the industry must commit to a more ethical

and responsible vision to meet the demands of a more conscious world.

Second-Hand Nature: A Common Sort Gifting Guide

Countless hours of thought and focus go into the perfect gift for a loved one, and that’s 

not even engaging with the high-ticket price tag that often accompanies those coveted items. 

with the holidays coming straight at us it raises the question, is a second-hand gift considered 

less of a gift because it’s been loved before? Well with a thought like this, it diminishes the 

gesture that’s being offered. Being granted the fabulous opportunity to sit down with one of the 

most well-established Buy-Sell-Trade intrapreneurs in the city of Toronto, Nicole Babin, owner 

of Common Sort, who has agreed to give her authentic response of how second-hand gems are 

the gift that keeps giving.

A Little History of Common

A little bit of background to start off with. Common Sort is an iconic buy-sell-trade store open to the 

public that has been around for just shy of 20 years. Nicole (who has lived a life that would make every teenage 

girl envious) has single-handedly mastered what second-hand should be. an operation that benefits both her 

small business and her community, and one that serves customers of all ages and backgrounds.

This Business started with the simple yet powerful thought. Selling clothing on the side 

to scrape by and have a cute handbag could turn into something that thousands have dreamed of 

doing, but the difference between those who merely dream and Nicole, is that she took action. 

While her company started with a passion for fashion, its grown to serve a deeper purpose. 

Providing stylish clothing for those who may not afford new items, such as new mothers looking 


Second-Hand Nature: A Common Sort Gifting Guide.

for a blouse for dinner or possible a teenager needing a fleshy studded belt. Common Sort Exist 

for those who need it, appreciate it, and celebrate it.

To better understand the ins and outs of Buy-Sell-Trade stores, we enlisted the owner of 

one of Toronto’s top thrift stores. Alongside Nicole Babin, we have August Gunson, acting 

manager of one of the three Common Sort locations and is a buyer with an eye for what people 

want. These two vintage Vixens offer an insightful yet tasteful perspective on the impact a store 

like Common Sort can have.

What makes second-hand gift-giving so special? "A second-hand gift can be 100 times more unique 

than one that’s fresh off the rack. It speaks volumes about how you see that person and who they are to you. If 

you’re gifting something that was specifically asked for, it sucks the fun out of it. It’s supposed to be more 

thoughtful than an Uber gift card,” Nicole explains.

How do you address any stigma surrounding the idea of a second-hand gift? August shares, “When 

considering a gift for someone that’s second-hand, obviously there should be some boundaries. I wouldn’t be 

thrilled if I got a pair of underwear from the Salvation Army for the holidays. But I personally don’t think there 

should be any second thoughts around a second-hand gift. For people like myself, just about everything I own is

second-hand, apart from some things. A gift that’s being passed on for a second chance of appreciation should 

be recognized for what it is and appreciated for its intent. Some people will forever be stuck in their own ways. 

You can’t really force the acceptance of second-hand onto everyone. The stigma can come from generations 

before us, who used donation services as a second garbage bin. People who appreciate second-hand can relate to

the fact that one diva’s trash is another diva’s treasure.”

What advice would you give to someone looking to give a second-hand gift that feels meaningful and 

thoughtful? After a brief pause, Nicole thoughtfully responds, “When you’re buying someone a gift, especially 

if it’s second-hand, you want to play to the character they are and how you authentically see them. A generic 


Second-Hand Nature: A Common Sort Gifting Guide.

gift can be nice in that moment, but if there’s no sentimental value, it’s practically worthless.” She further adds, 

“It’s important to know who you’re shopping for. Put yourself in their shoes and imagine what would mean the 

most to them.”

Behind the Scenes:

Here at common sort the process seams seamless, clients bring in their clothing with the chance to trade 

in for some new goodies, or for a cash price of a quarter of what they price things at. But more often than not 

the service that is provided for us as common sort fans go underappreciated. At this store things are hand-picked

by the buyers on duty to provide good quality, lightly used Gems for a fraction of the price. This second-hand 

store is perfect for the ones who are shopping for others this year. Having the advantage of having hand selected

gems for you to pass on as gifts this year takes half the uphill battle of picking out that perfect gift. The goal of 

Common Sort is to make stylish finds accessible either for yourself or for the ones who matter most to you this 

holiday season.

 All in all, a second-hand gift feels like second nature to many, as it reflects a shared value: cherishing 

and appreciating pre-loved items. This mindset is what the world is shifting towards. While DIY gifts hold a 

special place, the luxury of buying a new gift is often overlooked. For some, second-hand is the only option, 

and for many, it’s something to celebrate. Hopefully, our readers now recognize that a second-hand gift is truly 

a gift that keeps on giving.

Sincerely, your 20 something Fashion Diva

Somewhere Between Flesh and Cloth: A realistic conversation about the modelling industry

 

We are back, baby! 

We are so far back that we have ended right in the 90’s. SuperModels are icons once again and 

there is this gray cloud looming over all of our heads, the lightning is the flash from a young 

girl's phone filming a body checking video for TikTok and the thunder is the voices of young 

women preaching pro ana rhetoric from SuperModels past. The storm is brewing. 

During the past few decades of the 2000’s there was a certain shift around what became the 

standard for beauty, a necessary birth of diversity and inclusivity within the fashion industry. 

Although, there has been change within the fashion world, one could say that efforts are done so 

begrudgingly, to appease the outcry of those who were being genuinely affected by the 

negligence. From the recent revival of viciously thin models headlining major campaigns, as 

well as celebrities using prescription medication (not for its intended use) to lose weight– to 

websites posting articles titled “Bye-bye booty: Heroin chic is back, posted by the New York 


Post in 2022– I have to pause and think, has the fashion industry ever really made any progress 

at all, ever? 

I could not help but to think about those who were actually in the modelling industry, watching 

these terrible, dare I say, trends take place in real time all while they’re posing in front of the 

camera. 

My curiosity led me to Aisha South, a 23 year old plus-sized model who is based in Toronto and 

Montreal. Over coffee, South recalled how she felt about the industry before she entered it, “It 

felt glitzy and glamorous.” she chuckled, “but it’s really quite awkward.”. She let me know that 

there were things that went unsaid during shoots that eventually you learn to pick up on, for 

example, when you are doing well and the photographer is happy with the work they will 

reassure you. However, when the photographer is not happy with the work being done they will 

get quiet, and the studio becomes an awkward environment. South states “If it’s quiet, you’re 

bombing.” 

Production for shoots and campaigns are collaborative work environments, photographers, 

stylists, models and other crew should all be on the same page for what they are expected to 

deliver. Sadly, this is just not the case. South brought up the issue of styling, and how some 

stylists– although they have the models exact measurements– bring garments that will simply 

just not fit the model. “I’ve worked with stylists that have been in the industry for 20 plus years, 

they should know what they’re doing, and some just don’t seem to care to have the correct size 

for you.”. The bare minimum for fashion shoots is for the clothes to fit but South states that, “I 

think they [stylists] just want to say they’re inclusive.” 


One shoot in particular that South looks back on with ill regard, is one she did for a well known 

Canadian plus size clothing retailer (name left out intentionally). Where she was asked to 

purchase her own padding to bring for the shoot in order to fit some of the clothing she would be 

modelling. While on set she overheard people talking about how the company did not hire 

someone who fit their description because their rates were too high. 

When she mentioned this, the reality of extreme elusiveness in the industry really set in. 

 There seems to be a disconnect between the conversations the fashion industry says they are 

having– with the actions they are actually committing. There can be talk, talk, talk, about change

but it will only happen when words are implemented by action. 

This leads me back to where I started on my journey. Is the modelling industry not really willing 

to change and is that the reason we have so swiftly returned to the danger zone of past decades? 

It is no secret that the fashion space is one that is polarizing; a place where people get to express 

themselves and have creative freedom, that’s why we are all here, isn’t it? But toxicity is still 

rampant, we have to be cognisant of the space we are entering. How can we, as future designers, 

store owners and fashion industry workers see the missing pieces and work to change vital 

wrong doings in our own industry. 

While young people, like South, show up to do their jobs, those behind the scenes at agencies, 

clothing companies, photographers and stylists should equally show up and do theirs, and do it 

properly. When plus sized models are made to feel like the company they are hired to do a shoot 

for doesn’t truely want their clothes to be plus sized, it is making these spaces undesirable for 

young people to go out and pursue these endeavours.

Fashion Uncovered: Sustainability Unsustained - The Issue with the Sustainable Fashion Trend

Thrifting has increased in popularity over the years as fashion trends turn to emphasize 

sustainability and unique styles influenced by the past. Sustainability efforts by many brands and 

designers in the fashion industry has grown as a trend focussing on young, advocated generations

impacted the most by global issues like climate change. As Gen Z myself, efforts to decrease 

contribution to environmental issues and landfills are valuable while shopping.

The Benefits of Thrifting Popularity

Sustainability in fashion has pushed many to shop consciously and thrift for fashion 

forward and vintage pieces. Thrifting is beneficial for the environment and a sustainable 

shopping practice that is fun while being cost and consumption protective. Increased popularity 

in thrifting has resulted in a reduction of clothing contribution to landfills, longer life spans of 

clothing, a decreased rate of overconsumption leading to mindful spending and a cost effective, 

affordable approach to shopping and fashion. Sustainable shopping has also decreased the 

demand for fast-fashion pieces which contributes to the reduction of clothing in landfills. 

The Consequences of the Sustainability Trend

Although an increase in thrifting and sustainable shopping habits are beneficial for the 

fashion world, with anything, an increase in demand leads to an increase in price. Stores 

emphasizing sustainable practices have upped prices knowing that the conscious consumer will 

spend the extra money to purchase recycled and environmentally friendly pieces. This goes with 

everyday brand efforts such as H&M following their recycling program, but it also has been a 

noticed issue with current thrift stores. Popular thrift stores have taken advantage of the 

sustainability trend by increasing prices as demand rises to capitalize on the desires of consumers

without fully contributing to the environmental efforts. Greenwashing is a major issue revolving 

around popular brands known for fast fashion. This is why in order to be a fully conscious 


consumer research is significant before purchasing. Big brands like H&M mentioned earlier may

have recycling efforts in place, but not all garments are fully used. Recycling and donations by 

large companies also can be used to receive tax write offs. Efforts do not always have a 

sustainable motive. 

Regarding thrift stores, there has been ongoing controversy with Value Village 

specifically, and its influx in prices for merchandise donated to them. Driving prices up for items 

that were once affordable is capitalizing on the thrift trend and makes once affordable options for

clothing for those who needed it, unattainable. It is not just fashion forward individuals who 

enjoy thrifting; there are families and individuals out there who only have thrifting as an option 

for clothing. It is not just the prices that are a disadvantage for these consumers either: an 

increase in popularity of thrifting minimizes the availability of clothing options as well. 

Are All Thrift Stores Sustaining Ethical Efforts and Pricing?

One type of retailer that has grown in popularity alongside the thrift trend has been 

consignment shops. We have all seen the baseline effects the sustainability trend has been having

on businesses and consumers with raised prices and increased popularity, but what do businesses 

think about these actions from the inside? I interviewed a local Plato’s Closet manager with eight

years of experience about shifts and patterns noticed in the business as a result of the 

sustainability trend and she has also noticed an influx in prices, however, not as a direct result of 

demand. 

Is Plato’s Closet a Sustainable Brand?

“Yes, I would say that Plato’s is a sustainable brand. By buying and selling gently used 

clothing, we reduce waste and promote the recycling of quality items that may otherwise end up 


in landfills. This resale model supports a circular economy, allowing people to refresh their 

wardrobes affordably while extending the life of clothing.”

Has Plato’s Closet Grown in Popularity as a Result of the Sustainability Trend?

“Yes, absolutely! Thrifting’s popularity has boosted our business and brought more foot 

traffic into the store, especially by Gen Z shoppers. Consumers are increasingly looking for 

budget friendly clothing options that allow them to maintain their style, making our store a great 

choice for those wanting to save money.” 

Do You Believe Plato’s Closet is One of the More Affordable Thrift Options Out There?

“Yes, I believe Plato’s is one of the more affordable thrift options out there alongside 

regular thrift stores selling donated items. In contrast to vintage stores and resellers, we aim to 

keep our prices low and provide our customers with cash for their items, creating a beneficial 

cycle. This affordability makes us a great choice for shoppers looking for quality clothing at 

accessible prices. A bonus at Plato’s Closet is curated, we select our product. So, it’s an easier 

shopping experience.”

Have Prices Gone Up Through the Years as a Result of Increased Demand?

“Prices at Plato's Closet have increased slightly over the years, similar to trends in mall 

stores. However, these changes are very minimal. Our prices are not a result of increased 

popularity. Instead, large demand for a specific category will drive those prices lower. This 

approach helps us remain competitive and affordable while still reflecting the value of quality, 

gently used clothing.”

Do You Feel That Plato’s Business Ethics Have Been Maintained Through the Years?”

“Yes, I believe Plato’s Closet has maintained strong business ethics, especially regarding 

sustainability. We promote responsible consumption by offering affordable, high-quality 


secondhand clothing, which reduces waste and extends the life cycle of garments. By 

encouraging customers to buy and sell gently used items, we minimize the environmental impact

of the fashion industry.”

While most thrift stores have attempted to raise prices and take advantage of their 

increased demand, not all stores are greenwashing and have unsustainable motives. Prices for 

any store go up with inflation, but there is a difference between pricing accordingly on economic

changes and capitalizing on increased demand. Research on renewable practices and brands is 

crucial for conscious consumption and investing in proper, sustainable brands to ensure that 

pricing and practices are sustained. Sustainability has become more noticeably popular which 

has its benefits for the environment but has also led to sustainable motives to be unsustained in 

business practices. 

Victoria's Secret Fashion Show: Influential Or Not?

The Victoria’s Secret fashion show being back in 2024 is an insanely important

influence on fashion today. Now there are two arguments as to why this show is

important and why there is the belief that it is not important. The Victoria’s Secret

fashion show is legendary and has been popular ever since it first started being

produced in 1995. In the beginning, the fashion show was considered risky and bold,

but then became a huge success for Victoria’s Secret. The argument that the

Victoria’s Secret fashion show was hugely influential on the fashion industry. It’s

probably more popular than the ladder. The main reason for this is the fact that

before this show, it was not really known for companies to do fashion shows to

launch their lingerie lines. This concept being popularised was hugely impactful on

the fashion industry because it paved the way for other companies to market their

lingerie in the same way. It also opened up opportunities for other lingerie companies

to open up and be more successful within their clothing. An example of this is

savage x fenty by rihanna. This company arose as a florist by also doing fashion

shows for their lingerie. Another reason that the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was

highly influential is the fact that it became known for its beautiful models. Victoria’s

Secret angels became the blueprint for what every girl wanted to be at the time. This

made the success of the company huge. On the other hand of the argument, you


could also say the Victoria’s Secret angels were highly damaging to society. The idea

of being a Victoria’s Secret angel back in the 90s and early 2000s was the image of

being overly skinny and having no flaws whatsoever. The reason this could be

damaging to society is because it taught young girls at the time that that’s what they

should strive to be, even though it was an unhealthy lifestyle. Another reason that

the argument of the fashion show being damaging to the fashion industry is that

having a fashion show for a lingerie line would risk the integrity and damage the

image of the company. The reasoning for this is that people on the side of the

argument would believe that Victoria’s Secret as a company should not be promoting

the sexualization of women. This could be argued because it leaves a bad

impression for young girls. Some could argue that the impression being left on girls

is that they should be showing off their bodies anywhere and everywhere. Neither

argument is necessarily right or wrong but speaking for the overall influence on

fashion Victoria’s Secret infamous fashion show was highly influential on the

industry. When speaking to people on this topic, the important question to ask is

WHY do you think the Victoria’s Secret fashion show has or had a huge influence on

the industry today? The reasoning being that there will always be a different answer.

The Silent Revolution: Asian Immigrants Keep Traditional Tailoring Alive

In a modest Toronto tailor shop, an immigrant couple witnesses a heartening trend: 

younger generations embracing handcrafted cheongsams, bridging cultural heritage with 

modern sensibilities

In a modest shop tucked away in a bustling plaza on Steeles Avenue East, Auntie 

Song carefully guides her chalk across silk fabric, marking precise measurements that will 

eventually transform into a masterpiece of Chinese tailoring. Her hands move with the 

confidence that comes from decades of experience – and a heritage spanning over a century.

"When my great-grandfather started this journey in Shanghai's International 

Settlement in the early 1900s, he couldn't have imagined his craft would find new admirers in

Canada," says Song, who owns LeeYonge Bespoke Tailor with her husband. Together, 

they've maintained this family legacy since immigrating to Toronto thirty years ago.

Working side by side in their shop, the couple has become more than just tailors – 

they're cultural custodians. While Mr. Lee focuses on the intricate pattern-cutting, Auntie 

Song handles client fittings and the delicate embroidery work. "We complement each other," 

she says with a warm smile. "In this business, you need four hands and two hearts working as

one."

The revival isn't just about fashion, it's a cultural renaissance. "Today's young people 

want to connect with their heritage in a meaningful way," Song explains, smoothing a piece 

of intricately embroidered fabric. "They don't just want to wear a cheongsam; they want to 

understand its story, its craftsmanship, and its cultural significance."

This renewed interest comes at a crucial time for traditional tailoring. For three 

decades, LeeYonge has maintained its presence in Toronto, preserving techniques that have 

been passed down through four generations. Each cheongsam requires at least 30 hours of 

meticulous handwork, involving dozens of precise measurements and multiple fittings.


However, the revival faces significant challenges. "Finding young apprentices willing 

to learn this craft is difficult," Song admits, while her husband nods in agreement. "It takes 

years of practice to master the techniques. Many are deterred by the time investment 

required." Despite offering apprenticeship opportunities, they have had only two serious 

inquiries in the past year.

The price point also reflects the artistry involved, custom cheongsams at LeeYonge 

start at $1,500. Yet, customers increasingly understand the value. "When they see the hand-

rolled edges, the precise pattern matching at the seams, the personalized fit – they recognize 

why preserving these skills matters," Song says.

The shop's walls tell their own story, decorated with photographs spanning decades: 

Song's great-grandfather in his Shanghai workshop, her parents teaching her the trade, and 

recent snapshots of young clients beaming in their custom creations. Each image represents a 

thread in the continuing narrative of Chinese tailoring tradition.

"What gives me hope," Song reflects, as her husband carefully cuts a pattern nearby, 

"is seeing young people choose slow fashion over fast fashion, tradition over trends. They're 

not just buying a dress, they're investing in cultural preservation."

As fashion trends come and go, this quiet renaissance of traditional craftsmanship 

suggests a deeper shift in consumer values. For the younger generation, wearing a 

handcrafted cheongsam represents more than style – it's a bridge between past and present, a 

statement about cultural identity, and a vote of confidence in the enduring value of artisanal 

craftsmanship.

Back in their workshop, Auntie Song begin another fitting session with a young 

client. As they pin and adjust the fabric together, they're not just creating a garment, they're 

continuing a legacy, one stitch at a time.

Hyperconsumerism; the era of excess

Do I need this or am I just experiencing the essence of ennui? Nowadays, everyone is In dire

need of the comfort of convenience in our daily lives, thus where online retail therapy plays

a big part.

Fast fashion and online shopping; the dangers to mental health

The convenience of fast purchasing through influencer storefronts - with a click of a

button and you too can have all the items shown in said video. Why does it not bring as much

joy to consume anymore?

I have wondered why as a consumer feeling as such. I believe that there’s a sense of

self-soothing as a way to cope with our daily lives. Retail therapy and how this entangles

with our emotions, the Instant gratification from online shopping and the cause of easy

convenience turned to impulsive spending. Online shopping is an easy influence on

impulsivity especially from how saturated the constant advertising and promoting of things

we are told are needed to buy. This is a constant state causing a lack of appreciation for what

has been purchased. Which leads to a lack of specialty in those garments or items that are not

appreciated. The Sense of emptiness when the short-lived happy purchase is not what it

seems, glamorized by the media. This skyrockets the stress levels to overconsumption or

even hyperconsumption. According to an August 15th, 2024 article by ScienceDictect

authors Julia de Koning, Mariangela Lavanga, and Wouter Spekkink, “fashion and clothing


consumption is a Social activity (Briceno and Stagl, 2006). In the social environment of

young adults, purchasing less clothing may not be seen as a normal behaviour”. Fast fashion

and how celebrities and or influencers encourage cheap fashion for paid endorsements rather

than promoting it because they actively enjoy and wear said items. The normalization of

buying garments that are just “ok” when previously it used to be the idea of purchasing

higher quality garments and getting said garment perfectly tailored to your body to be

something you actually love and will wear constantly.

Social media influence on consumerism

The Influence of excess of things furthers the demand for the excess of mass production.

The social media ticket word of categorizing everything to aesthetics, how it comes into play

with overspending when you can’t afford that habit. Social media's constant overexposure to

promotions and advertisements to buying more and more - leads to buyer’s fatigue and no

sense of joy in buying.

The excitement is watered down through the excess of options of basically the same exact

products. Lower-quality items or garments that are not made to be lasting in a way that keeps

having us buying more and more simply because it is not satisfactory in expectation, makes

all sense of a disappointment which leads to trying to find something better to purchase

follow soon after. Hoping that hard-earned money goes to something long-lasting and truly

something to cherish, ends in constant disappointment as many things are made poorly.


The realities of thrifting and its certain cons

Are clothing items being donated because of their cheap quality or because they are not

trendy anymore?

Is donating back cheap clothing that has never been used as an ease to the conscience habit

to keep buying?

There's still a sense of unsustainable practices with constant “thrift haul” videos shown on

social media specifically, YouTube. The outcome of this is still contributing to

hyperconsumption with the added sense of doing this constantly or even daily for

entertainment purposes.

The saying Quantity over quality comes into play as a consumer of second-hand fashion

myself. The pros, buying second-hand clothing is a very sustainable way to consume fashion.

This lessens the chance of over-consuming fast fashion garments and redirects the consumers

to buy clothes that are perfectly good quality clothing that will go to the landfill if the

garments were not donated to second-hand shops. Secondly, consumers can be very creative

with finding clothing that is unique and is possibly made of better quality than fast fashion

items nowadays. Lastly the price. The price of second-hand clothing can be very inexpensive,

which is a better alternative to buying poor-quality fast-fashion clothing, which is

unsustainable and can be expensive.

However, that being said there are some cons to thrifting because of how popular it has

become in the past few years. Firstly the cost has gone up, which makes buying second-hand

increasingly more difficult for people who rely on thifting being very affordable compared to

fast fashion which is not great and still can be expensive to many. Also, because thrifting has


become so popular many consumers will buy pounds and pounds of clothing and then soon

after, return all the items which quite possibly be thrown out into landfills if not purchased

again, creating waste. Lastly, if not careful buying second-hand clothing that is fully synthetic

and cheaply made, will deteriorate quicker, thus having to buy more clothing often and throw

out the old falling apart garments in the landfill later on.

On an ending note, I leave you with a question from an April 18th, 2024 article in Fashion magazine by author Isabel B. Slone: “Over time, as I have negotiated my own impulses, I have begun to wonder, “Is it possible to rid oneself entirely of the desire to consume?

Boom or Bust? Impacts of The Vintage Fashion Craze.

As second-hand fashion skyrockets in popularity, both opportunities and challenges are created for small businesses as they navigate a tricky market. 

In Toronto’s famous Kensington Market, it is a hub for vintage apparel, artisanal craftmanship, and delicious eats. One store in particular, Joy Zubair’s shop, Boho Chachies, hums with activity as locals and tourists alike browse the racks of carefully curated vintage pieces. Joy, a longtime vintage enthusiast, opened Boho Chachies in 2022 after initially selling through Facebook, Instagram, and Etsy. She is a joyful, well-known individual within the industry from connections through her previous dedication to Toronto’s much loved pop-up markets. Now she runs her own store as a community hub, giving local artisans and small businesses a permanent platform. Yet, while vintage fashion’s boom has fueled Boho Chachies’ success, it also brings challenges into the market for Joy and other small business owners. Joy states that when she first started, vintage was all about finding unique, quality pieces, and it still is, but others have taken advantage of the market’s growth. Joy’s experiences reveal how the explosion of second-hand fashion in Toronto has impacted the selling market and the habits of those who buy. 

The Rise of Vintage Fashion and Boho Chachies

The steady increase of demand for vintage apparel started modestly and is now on the forefront of everyone’s Christmas list. Unlike fast fashion, vintage items are at the top of the food chain offering a unique story, quality, and sustainability that appeals to a new generation of shoppers. This shift hopefully isn’t just a fleeting trend, but an evolution to how people approach fashion, valuing timeless items that are responsibly sourced. Unfortunately, Joy Zubair perceived this shift in demand way before you and me, which was the spark to opening her own store in Kensington Market.

“I started with just two shelved of my own pieces,” she remembers, “and the rest of the space was filled with items from 20 different local vendors, all women-owned.” The vendor model was integral to her vision, allowing her to not just showcase her collection, but also support and watch grow other businesswomen in Toronto. Nothing screams well-curated more then multiple hardworking women selling in one room. Many of her vendors are people she connected with during the early days of the pandemic lockdown, when pop-up markets and social media were major spaces for small business owners to connect. Joy’s store has become a launching pad for these vendors, they have grown substantially to the point of needing their own HST number and gain the wonderful experience of doing taxes times two. The rise of vintage has given Boho Chachies an enthusiastic audience as people seek out sustainable, one-of-a-kind pieces. For Joy, the success of Boho Chachies has been a gateway to growth, building a community that values quality, connection, and environmental impact.

The Benefits of a Vintage Craze

Increasingly, buyers are drawn to second-hand stores and are more conscious of their choices. Joy notes that customers do their research before they even walk through the door, looking for 100% cotton or expensive, quality fabrics. Her customers are no longer looking for “ cool ” items, they’re looking for lasting, practical pieces which they will wear again and again . Finally, people are thinking past their Shein hauls! Consumers think about their purchases a lot more, “ if they are not in love with the item, they’re just not gonna buy it ” Joy says. This new consumer awareness has been a welcoming shift, allowing greater promotion over craftsmanship rather sheer quantity. Its not just the shift in consumer perspective that opposes fast fashion, but vendor-oriented stores like Boho Chachies that showcases a vibrant community space and promote small-time sellers. It makes you think, will multiple seller spaces be the new normal? Toronto’s rent definitely makes it seem like a possibility . Shoppers are provided with a space and quality you won’t find in large retail chains, driving the force behind small business growth and creating more opportunities for anyone to penetrate the market.

The Challenges of an Oversaturated Market

As anything goes, the rapid growth of vintage fashion isn’t without downsides. The Toronto market has become oversaturated with sellers who just don’t care. Numerous stories arise of people buying bags with dirty tissues (like really, you can’t even check the pockets?) or items not as described. More people jump to the scene wanting to capitalize on the profits and skip manditory cleaning and quality checks. Joy is concerned that this is getting out of control with those who are in it for the money not washing, repairing, or caring for the items they sell. Not to point fingers, even though I am, recently small time Depop sellers have gained this trait. Customers end up with ripped clothing or dirty items leading to customer disappointment, which overall, risk damaging the trust in reputable vintage shops. There’s also many misconceptions circulating that lead to some questioning the ethics of second-hand sellers . Theres a common belief that the clothing is overpriced, and sellers are profiteering off their items, but there are costs most buyers don’t calculate. Joy counters that sourcing high-quality vintage items involves extensive time, effort, and skill which the prices accurately reflect. You don’t have to see it to believe it, the overhead costs are there, especially from dedicated vendors . The market’s expansion is exciting but brings competition and misconceptions, raising questions about the standards and ethics of the market’s future. 

Navigating the Future

Despite these challenges, Joy remains optimistic about the future of vintage fashion. She envisions multiple vendor stores like hers helping maintain high standards, support ethical practices, and provide platforms of growth for small businesses. She is proud of the impact her vendors have made, “ if they (vendors) want to open their own boutique, then do it. I want everybody to succeed.” Joy hopes to see more spaces like Boho Chachies, stores that value sustainability and craftsmanship. To her, building a network of genuine locally owned boutiques that prioritize quality is key to preserving the spirit of the Toronto vintage scene. As a buyer, pay close attention to who you’re buying from, and not to encourage your shopping habits, but please remember, high quality pieces are worth it.


Fast Lane Fashion: How Social Media Drives Trends


Social media has advanced the fashion industry, transforming how trends are created, 

spread, and consumed. Platforms such as Instagram, Facebook and TikTok have become virtual 

runways, where styles and trends can go viral in an instant and new designers can showcase their

creations to a global audience. Viewers become easily influenced which is why this is the new 

affordable marketing technique. Although, the way in which trends come and go has begun to 

heavily contribute to overconsumption, leading to struggle when it comes to sustainable fashion. 

These micro-trends further promote disposable consumption rather than pushing timeless, high 

quality style.

Trendy today, Gone tomorrow

It is quite obvious that there are more issues to social media fashion influencing than just 

staying in the loop or attempting not to waste money. In an interview with Stella McCartney, she

discusses the impacts social media has on the fashion industry, specifically, micro-trends that 

encourage overconsumption. McCarthy states that this cycle not only pressures consumers to 

constantly buy but also creates challenges for sustainable brands that focus on quality and 

longevity over rapid trend cycles. For consumers, it’s becoming harder to prioritize quality and 

longevity when trends change so quickly. She highlights that sustainable brands face an uphill 


battle, as they’re competing against the allure of cheap, fast fashion that social media constantly 

promotes.

Style and Sustainability, Learning Balance

The struggle between staying fashionable and supporting sustainability is a constant 

challenge for many consumers. Social media fuels the demand for new styles at lightning speed, 

making it tempting to buy inexpensive, trendy pieces from fast fashion brands like H&M, which 

rapidly churn out new collections. However, brands like Reformation offer an alternative, 

focusing on sustainability by using eco-friendly materials and ethical production practices. While

Reformation’s designs are stylish and trendy, they also come with a higher price tag, reflecting 

their commitment to sustainability. This leaves consumers with a tough choice, to follow the 

latest trends affordably but unsustainably, or invest in brands such as Reformation that prioritize 

ethical production but require a larger investment. This balancing act highlights the shift in 

consumer awareness as people try to adapt while having a love for fashion with a desire to 

reduce their negative environmental impact. Ultimately, consumers are at a turning point, faced 

with the choice between staying on top of every single trend and embracing sustainability. As 

social media continues to promote rapid fashion cycles. High end quality brands show that it’s 

possible to prioritize both style and ethics, although this often comes at a higher cost. The 

challenge now is for both consumers and the fashion industry to find ways to make sustainable 

fashion more accessible and appealing, creating a balance between the desire for new styles and 

the responsibility to protect the planet and not feel the need to dress like everyone else.


Nostalgia goes Viral

Social media has even gone as far as created new names for existing trends in order to 

make them more popular and trending. It has taken aesthetics like cottagecore and Y2K from 

niche interests to fashion movements. Platforms such as TikTok and Instagram have turned these

styles into viral trends, where influencers show off outfits that fit specific “vibes.” Cottagecore, 

with its floral, feminine, vintage inspired look, gives off an innocent, simple feel. Whereas, Y2K 

fashion brings back the fun, flashy vibes of the early 2000s. Think low-rise jeans, butterfly clips, 

and tiny sunglasses and diamonds. These aesthetics have become so popular that mainstream 

brands are jumping on board, offering their own cottagecore dresses or Y2K-inspired pieces to 

meet demand. It’s no longer just about individual taste; social media has made these aesthetics 

into lifestyle choices that influence what we buy and wear. This takes away from uniqueness, 

forces people to hop on trends as soon as they can and gravitate to fast fashion brands that are 

also quick to stock their shelves with the latest trendy aesthetics.

Why Building a Capsule Wardrobe is Worth the Investment

Eliminate clutter from your life! Build a timeless and sustainable wardrobe full of quality pieces to reduce overconsumption and de-clutter your life. Here's why splurging on timeless, classic, long-lasting items can increase sustainability, save you money, and make getting dressed easier every day.

With fashion trends moving faster than ever, capsule wardrobes offer a refreshing solution. A capsule wardrobe is essentially a strategic selection of a small number of high-quality staple items. Think of classic jackets, good-quality jeans that are a great fit, and thick and cozy sweaters. All of these pieces could be mixed and matched an endless amount of times. Your capsule wardrobe does not need to be filled with 50 items to keep you in style. The best part of a capsule wardrobe is only needing a few pieces that you actually love to wear! Why does everyone want a capsule wardrobe?

Quality Over Quantity

The principle of a capsule wardrobe is based on the idea that less is more. It's not about buying tons of super cheap items, unlike fast fashion, but instead, it is about building off of quality pieces. According to Who What Wear, the key is choosing clothes hewn from quality materials like wool, silk, or responsibly sourced leather so your pieces will look good longer and will stay intact with regular wear.

When investing in high-quality pieces you will see that your clothes are staying in style for years. High-quality materials tend to not only look better but they tend to hold up through seasons, so you're not replacing things constantly. Upgrading your closet will also help in tackling the fast fashion problem, where cheap disposable clothes add up to an environmental wasteland. According to RTÉ, building a capsule wardrobe around durable, timeless pieces is one of the best ways to fight back against the "throwaway culture" of fashion, Beard Guru Australia.

The Cost-Per-Wear Benefit

While it feels like a lot to be spending on one piece, items that last longer often end up saving you money. Cost-per-wear is literally just the price of an item divided by how many times you'll realistically wear it. So, that $200 coat you wear 100 times actually costs $2 per wear, which ends up being a lot better than that $40 that falls apart after 2 wears. 

Think about a classic trench coat or a leather handbag. According to The Elegance Edit, these are the types of things that will fit into a capsule wardrobe and hold up for frequent wear. 

However! These pieces will be more expensive upfront, but in the long term, they will hold their value. The cost-per-wear benefit also relates to sustainability. Each quality piece has a longer life which will cause fewer replacements and overall less waste. Instead of buying low-cost, low-quality items on a regular basis, you are buying staples you actually will be able to keep around.

From impulse buying to informed investing! Not only does this save you money in the long term, but also makes you feel good about your purchases knowing that they will last you a long time. Building your capsule wardrobe is also a more sustainable way of consumption. Each piece of your wardrobe is intentional. 

Capsule Wardrobes Make Everyday Dressing Easier

Another great reason for building your capsule wardrobe is how much easier it's going to make your daily routine. Simply with fewer clothing items which you all love and work well together, you can make your favourite outfits so much faster. 

Instead, you're working with a streamlined set of clothes that are versatile and fit your style. It's also such a fun and feel-good way to find your personal style by building up a capsule wardrobe. Invest in yourself! Begin investing in pieces for your daily needs: well-made jeans, neutral tops, or a classic coat. And you don't need to go out and buy everything at once, take it slow. You can build up a capsule wardrobe over time, adding investment pieces here and there. 

This way, you can also avoid impulse purchases and actually make selections that actually suit you and your lifestyle. 

The capsule wardrobe will help you wear timeless basics over the need to follow every trend. However, this does not mean everything is boring neutral basics, but are more so full of pieces that can be styled in different ways and will feel relevant for many years. As fashion experts have pointed out in the RTÉ article, capsule wardrobe is not about limiting style; it is rather about creating a meaningful connection with your clothes and moving towards your sustainable lifestyle.

How Your Investment Pieces Impact Fashion Sustainability

Capsule wardrobes and investment pieces are not only about simplifying your closet but also about the shift in the way we consume fashion. According to experts, high-quality, timeless essentials might be worth the higher upfront cost because, with longer wear, they are less frequently replaced. Your wardrobe will contribute directly to sustainable fashion in that it reduces demand for inexpensive, disposable items of clothing. 

The more people who begin to build their capsule wardrobes the more brands will have to shift to more high-quality, ethical production. Once more consumers begin to swear by well-made, lasting items over trendy pieces, the industry has to catch on. Brands that have gained a lot of attention in the last few years highlight great quality craftsmanship and responsible sourcing as more and more consumers become conscious of their purchases. Ultimately, capsule wardrobes are about building a wardrobe that doesn't just look good but also aligns with your values.

One purchase at a time! We can create a wardrobe that makes our lives easier and has less environmental impact by purchasing fewer, higher-quality goods. After all, a closet full of things you truly love to wear is worth more than a collection of items that you barely ever wear. Invest in yourself and feel proud of your purchases.

Wearing the Laugh: The Curious Union of Internet Memes and Fashion.

Internet memes are becoming more than a source of humor; they’re turning into fashion statements. How are consumers responding to meme fashion, and what strategies are brands using to bring memes to life?

Wearing Humor: The Rise of Meme Fashion

Internet memes have become an everyday language, blending humor with quick, shareable messages. Today, memes have expanded beyond the digital space to influence the world of fashion, as brands actively incorporate them into marketing and design to engage with consumers.

Young people, in particular, have embraced meme fashion. Twenty-something college student Andrew Lee explains, “Meme fashion isn’t just clothes; it’s a way to express my personality and sense of humor.” He points to his shirt, which prominently features a popular meme character. “It’s cool because it connects me with people who get the same jokes,” he adds.

From Meme to Fashion: No Seriousness Required

One reason for the popularity of meme fashion is its lightheartedness. Fashion is often perceived as serious, but meme fashion invites consumers to take it less seriously. Fashion psychologist Dr. Emily Kang notes, “Meme fashion allows people to express humor through their clothing, giving them a fun way to show who they are.” She adds that “meme fashion even acts as a coping mechanism, helping people relieve stress through what they wear.”

Brands’ Meme Strategies

Some fashion brands have turned to memes as a key part of their marketing. Gucci and Balenciaga are prime examples, both known for their “meme campaigns” that capture consumers’ attention. Gucci recently caused a stir by posting images of popular meme characters wearing Gucci items on their official social media. Gucci’s digital marketing manager explains, “Memes make our brand feel more relatable.”

However, the longevity of meme fashion is uncertain. Some fashion experts believe that humor-driven trends tend to be short-lived. Because memes are consumed and discarded quickly, for brands to establish meme fashion as a sustained trend, they need to back it with storytelling and consistent content updates.

A Passing Trend or a New Form of Self-Expression?

Whether meme fashion will pass as a fad or become a new form of self-expression is still up for debate. Fashion scholar Catherine Chung observes, “Meme fashion should be understood differently from traditional fashion because it’s based on fast consumption.” She adds, “There’s no rule that fashion has to last long. If it gives consumers a fun way to express themselves, it’s valuable in its own right.”

Meme fashion breaks the mold, offering consumers a way to feel joy and freedom through what they wear. As digital culture continues to shape our world, it remains to be seen whether meme fashion will establish itself as a lasting trend or simply another fleeting craze.

Monday, October 28, 2024

Service Pieces, Fall 2024

  •  From the Battlefield to the Streets
  • All Washed Up: How dirty is your laundry?
  • Why are garments made so poorly nowadays...
  • Broke Girl Memoir
  • Trend or Faux: 5 wardrobe pieces...

 

Last Look: Unwrapping the New Year: Sustainable Fashion Trend...