Step Into Winter: In Fashion Forward Footwear

We all know staying fashionable and trendy in the winter can be a challenge, especially when it comes to footwear. Snow and cute shoes are not always a good combination. We are here to help provide and explore some inspiration on ways we can stay fabulous in the city of Toronto this winter season.

Standing on Business… and Snow

One of the biggest trends in this year's fashion is achieving an effortless business casual look that you can wear to work meetings or even strutting around the city. Many state it is difficult to accomplish this while wearing clunky, classic winter boots. Instead, opt for a “Chelsea” style boot. Chelsea boots have been trending for years but instead of the classic slim, flat boot, go for one with a chunky platform base adding a bit of height and dimension.

These boots are easy to style and can be worn to professional business events with a pair of slacks or running errands in sweats. The sole of the shoe makes them able to easily grip on icy, snowy surfaces. They are perfect to layer with a pair of chunky socks, leg- warmers or nylons and a sleek skirt. These boots are easy to find in stores and online as they are trendy and mindful all season long.

Latte Ready Booties

Everyone loves to look cute while heading to their favourite cafe, at the same time, comfort is key on days like these. A perfect warm shoe for your next coffee date should be a faux sheepskin bootie, specifically a platform depending on the street conditions. These are well known as uggs but can be found by more fashion-forward designers that are much more affordable and sustainable. These boots give the comfort of a slipper but warmth of a winter boot making them perfect for a relaxing cold day. They come in multiple different colours such as beige, brown, cream, black, pink and many more depending on what look you are going for.

Buckle up for Slushy Streets

If going for an edgy look is your vibe, these boots are most definitely for you. Boots with buckles are all the rage this winter, perfectly combining fashion and function. This adaptable footwear is available in a variety of styles, from stylish ankle boots to knee-high versions, and they're all embellished with eye-catching buckles that offer a stylish, edgy touch.

These boots, whether in smooth leather or plush suede, add flair to any winter ensemble, making them ideal for everything from cozy coffee shop excursions to cutsie holiday get-togethers or even a night out on the town. Your feet will stay warm while making a fashion statement. With an adjustable fit and comfort provided by the buckle detail, it also adds to the overall attractiveness and style to enhance your fit this chilly winter season.

Cold Cute and Packed Right: Winter Weekend Away Packing Essentials

Overcome overpacking! Using key pieces that layer and mix well, you’ll stay warm and look cute all weekend without the stress. Here you go, your guide to packing light and looking right on your winter getaway.

As a reformed overpacker, I have recently unlocked the secrets to packing smart while still looking cute. I’ll take you through your base layer to your accessories, all you need is some versatile pieces to make many different looks. Layers are everything Layers on layers on layers. Start with thermal tights and a couple of long-sleeved tops. This base will keep you warm without feeling bulky, and they work under everything. Wear your thermal tights under jeans, skirts, or some leather pants for to keep you extra warm and cozy. You only need a couple; they are an important staple and more importantly, they are very light and leave lots of room for your more fun clothes.

One coat for all!

Girl put on a coat! No more shivering in the cold because you think your coat is going to ruin your outfit. Your jacket should make your outfit not break it. Bring one staple, versatile, coat that works for everything. Whatever works best for you, an oversized leather jacket, a trench coat, or even your puffer coat in a neutral colour like black should go with all your outfits. Whether you’re wandering around or going to dinner, your coat should pull everything together. Just remember to layer and one coat is all you need for a weekend of fun.

Jeans and leather pants:

The dynamic duo. For a winter weekend, you really only need two pairs of pants. Bring your favourite pair of jeans and faux leather pants. Jeans are your multifaceted bestie, they can be perfect for more chill daytime looks, and you can layer them with thermal tights to stay extra warm. Leather pants can add some edge to your style for evening looks. Both options will be great for mixing and matching with any tops you’ve packed. Keep your wardrobe flexible without overdoing it!

Crossbody Bag: Hands-Free Style

There is no way we’re dealing with a shoulder bag while being wrapped up in layers. Not fun. A crossbody bag is perfect and cute for a hands-free style. Pick your favourite cross-body bag that will work with all your outfits. She’s cute, she’s comfortable, and she’s practical, big enough for your essentials without being bulky.

Accessories!

Accessories are my favourite way to incorporate some of your personal style into every look. Your favourite scarf in a bold colour or cool pattern will help keep you warm and add some personal flare to your outfit. Hats are a must too! Pack your cutest cozy beanie for laid-back vibes. Also, a versatile pair of sunglasses is a must for snow glare and will elevate any look.

Don’t Forget Skincare

Don’t Forget! Cold weather can be rough on your skin, so don’t forget a good moisturizer to keep it hydrated. A hydrating lip balm is also key, so you don’t have any dry, chapped lips. Don’t forget SPF either! Even in the winter, the sun can do damage. There are your key staples! Now you can mix and match all weekend without overpacking. Layer to stay warm and look cute, accessorize, and stay cozy. Have fun while being cute and mindful on your winter weekend getaway!

Own the Trend: From Demure to Dark Academia

This season, two striking trends are leading the fashion scene: the soft elegance of demure and the intellectual allure of dark academia. Ready to transform your wardrobe? Here’s how to embrace these styles while keeping your personal touch front and center.

Trends give us the chance to reinvent ourselves with each season, but the trick is finding ones that fit our vibe. Enter two of the moment’s most talked-about styles: demure, with its timeless elegance, and dark academia, a trend born from literary escapism and old-school sophistication. These trends may seem worlds apart, but both offer the perfect opportunity to elevate your style. Ready to dive in? Here’s how to embrace each one and make it truly your own.

 The Charm of Demure – Understated but Unforgettable

Demure fashion is all about capturing quiet elegance. It’s graceful, modest, and far from over- the-top, yet it manages to leave a lasting impression. Think flowy dresses, high-neck blouses, and soft, feminine touches that hint at vintage glamour. Want to nail the look?

• Stick to a neutral palette. Shades like blush, beige, cream, and soft pastels will give your outfit that effortless, timeless vibe. Demure fashion whispers instead of shouts.
• Focus on classic silhouettes. A-line skirts, modest blouses with intricate details, or even midi dresses with soft pleats can create a look that’s polished yet approachable.
• Go light on accessories. The beauty of demure is in its subtlety, so opt for delicate jewelry, like pearl earrings or a dainty bracelet. Vintage-inspired handbags or a silk scarf can add a finishing touch without overwhelming your look.

Demure fashion proves that sometimes less really is more. It’s all about elegance in simplicity, letting your poise and confidence take center stage.

Dark Academia – Where Scholarly Meets Stylish

If you’ve ever wished to live in an old library surrounded by leather-bound books, dark academia might just be your dream aesthetic. This trend, inspired by academic settings and intellectual pursuits, is full of rich textures, earthy tones, and nostalgic vibes. Want to master the look?

• Go for a moody color scheme. Think deep browns, grays, and forest greens. Layering these tones creates depth and adds an air of mystery.
• Textures are key. Wool blazers, tweed skirts, and oversized cardigans are all dark academia staples. Pair these with a crisp collared shirt or a turtleneck for that scholarly vibe.
• Accessories with a vintage twist. Leather satchels, oxford shoes, and wire-frame glasses complete the look. It’s about embracing the intellectual, so think of pieces that feel classic and a little old-school.

Dark academia is more than just a style, it's a mood. It’s for those who want to channel their inner philosopher while looking effortlessly cool.

Make the Trend Yours

Whether you’re drawn to the delicate nature of demure or the rich textures of dark academia, the best way to embrace any trend is by adding your own twist. Don’t be afraid to mix elements from both styles for something uniquely you. Try pairing a demure blouse with dark academia trousers, or soften a structured blazer with a more feminine, flowing skirt. The key is to make the trend work for you, not the other way around.

Fashion trends are a playground for self-expression, and this season’s top looks offer plenty of inspiration. Whether you find yourself leaning towards the gentle elegance of demure or the intellectual allure of dark academia, the real trick is to wear it with confidence and, most importantly, to have fun with it. After all, the best style is the one that feels like an extension of you.

Oh, George! Winter 2023-2024

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Beyond XXL: Is the pleasure of getting what you want in fashion industry accessible to all?

In the past decade, the fashion industry has taken a leap in terms of embracing size inclusivity and made significant strides toward challenging traditional beauty standards and promoting body positivity. After years of criticism for exclusion and lack of diversity, brands started to carry a good diversity of sizes for their merchandise. However, the fact that the fashion industry is vast and diverse, and the level of size inclusivity can vary widely among different brands, segments, and styles. With all this in consideration, consumers do feel that there is still a long way to go.

After well-known instances like one in 2016, where a well-known comedian Leslie Jones couldn’t find a designer to dress her for an event she took it out on Twitter stating the bias of the fashion industry, and many of such more. The fashion industry took a shift, in 2021 Old Navy issued a statement that they would start carrying from size 00 to 28 in-store, to cater to the needs of demands from plus size customers addressing the campaign of size inclusivity in the fashion industry. They have now started retailing these sizes in more than 70% of their physical stores, with almost 454 committing to offer the same number of sizes as offered on their online platform.

Big retailers like H&M, Athlete, and Zara, have started to strengthen their mission of inclusivity too by extending their sizes up to 6xl. Not only by carrying the assortments, these brands to show their high support to the whole campaign have also partnered with plus size models, activists, and founders to show their new avatar and to affect the changes within the industry.

Runway shows for centuries was showing stick figure model, with acclaimed “perfect” body for fashion shows. While with the whole stir in the industry after the movement big designers have embraced the change and have made progress with its body diversity and inclusions. Many plus-size runway models have paved their path on the runway for famous designers in the past decade.

With all the progress and said changes, the fashion market still has a long way to go says Aayushi Ghosh, an artist, widely known for her work in the music industry. She is a fashion enthusiast and shares her displease during her shopping trips. “Imagine going to a shop and suddenly your eyes catch a beautiful piece of cloth, and you instantly know they would have not had the same thing in your size, so you recommend that piece to the person accompanying you saying that it would look good on them, and you hyping the look while they try it on”; she elaborates.

Shopping is an experience which is quite difficult to enjoy if you are a plus size. Aayushi explains that she can never get out of a store without at least one person judging her frustration of not finding the appropriate size. Moreover, as a stage artist, it is difficult for her to find costumes too. During the interview, she recalls an incident when her stage time was canceled by the producers just because they couldn’t find a matching costume, unlike all the other participants. It breaks your morale. “there is no pleasure in shopping, it is a task for me!” she exclaimed.

Thinking thoroughly as a shopper myself, and recalling all my shopping experiences, there is no doubt about the disparity present in the fashion industry in terms of size inclusivity. How many styles that you browsed through have sizes available that exceed XXL? Very few…? Almost none…?

People do believe that progress has been made, and to a certain extent YES! But size inclusivity does not end at just including a few more sizes in the assortment. It is also creating an environment where consumers do not feel judged, bringing more looks and styles, and training the staff and sales associates to treat the consumers rightly. When it comes to high-end luxury fashion brands, they still have a very limited size to offer and a lack of diversity in their campaigns and runway shows.

The representation is also one of the issues here, there is a lack of adequate representation of diverse body types by the brands in their advertising, runway shows, and fashion campaigns. The visibility of individuals with a wide range of body shapes and sizes is needed to proudly show inclusion.

Talking about the runway models, we did mention they are embracing plus size models, but there are claims that it is just tokenism. Including a limited number of plus size models without making any substantial change in the overall business practices shows the opportunistic side of the fashion industry. In a report by Vouge released just a few months back, they showed the data comparing all the runway shows held in the fashion capitals New York, Paris, and Milan, out of all the 219 shows only 17 brands included at least 1 plus size model.

Size inclusivity in fashion brands is still more than just offering a range of styles, it is a commitment to representation, empowering, showing diversity, and making fashion accessible to everyone. And with the clear image of the industry right now, we have a long way to go.

Snap, Post, Trend: Decoding the Influence of Social Media on Fashion Culture

In the fashion world social media is one of the biggest influences in the industry, but is it slowly ruining fashion? With social media becoming one of the most prominent forms of media, it means that apps like tiktok and instagram start to rule the influence over the younger generation. Can this influence be positive? Are people still holding on to fashion before social media’s rise to fame? 

Paper or tech?

For most people over the age of 18, they remember reading magazines and waiting for the Spring/Summer collections to arrive in the mail. With the rise of technology every catalog, fashion show and even shopping is online. Although everything is easily accessible online people still seem to be holding on to print. To see if people still have a love for print I conducted a survey around the halls of George Brown. I had asked 20 students “If given a choice to buy the digital or print copy of Vogue magazine, which issue would you purchase?”. The survey results were print at 100% and digital at 0%. These results were unexpected and when asked why to a couple of students, answers were all around the same. “There is nothing like it, it’s classic, digital doesn't capture it the same”. This feels hopeful with the younger generation keeping fashion icons and fashion culture alive. It is easy to lose quality with the quantity of content being put out trying to keep up with the ever-changing trends.With all that in mind social media is the most common form of media now, yet it still sounds like print will always have a special place in fashion media.

Scroll, Shop, Repeat

With media comes influence, whether that’s good or bad. Social media apps have created the biggest influence over people with addicting content. With celebrities' influence and constant trends flowing in and out, social media can really affect people’s personal sense of style. Wearing what makes you happy isn’t always what’s trending. Seeing videos with millions of views and comments about you needing these new leggings or watching celebrities saying you can’t live without these new shoes can persuade you into thinking you really do need these things. These trends can be more harmful than you think, with people falling for these ad traps it promotes fast fashion. With shop features being added on apps like tiktok and instagram, it feeds into consumerism and promotes buying things we don’t need. People will buy and consume whatever they are told to, but impulse buying these “new tiktok leggings” that are going to end up in a landfill a couple months later is doing harm to more than just your bank account.

From Pins to Profit

With this in mind the media can be positive while promoting clothing as well. With big brands taking the spotlight social media is great for promoting niche small businesses. A lot of people can find their brand promotion a lot easier with a social media platform for marketing. For example, Cassandra Gates Co-Owner of FiercelyFeminineSwim owns a small business that relies heavily on social media marketing. Cassandra is very knowledgeable about social media’s effects on the industry and using it to her advantage. When asked Cassandra said “I was very inspired by a fellow bikini brand 437, they blew up after being posted by Kylie Jenner and after seeing how much of an impact influencers and social media has I have been directing a lot more of our energy into tiktoks and instagram.” This is an example of success because of social media and how easy it is to spread the word about new trends and brands.Cassandra has said that she has found more traffic on her website coming from her social media than anything else. Watching brands blow up overnight on tiktok has given so many platforms to small businesses and expanded the fashion industry in positive ways. There are so many ways to connect and collaborate with different creatives in the industry to get a brand out there.

Media Influence Moving Fashion Forward 

It’s no surprise when hearing about how the fashion industry isn’t always diverse. Social media is showing a wider variety of people who are into fashion with things such as modest style tips, different body types and showing there is no right or wrong way to dress. Giving a platform to different styles and new designers allow people to explore their personal style by seeing what appeals to them. An article from Meer talks about welcoming diversity in the fashion world through social media “providing a platform for people to share their own style and connect with others who have similar tastes. Social media has made it easier for people of all different backgrounds and body types to find representation and feel included in the fashion world” as written by Shania Cooper 2023. Showing that more than just a size zero can wear a tight dress is changing the fashion industry in a positive way and showing a bright future for social media in the industry.

With the multiple pros and cons it’s no denying how heavy of an influence social media has on the fashion industry. With being careful how you consume media, having access to all different types of designers, influences, shopping and styles at your fingertips can be quite useful but whether it’s swaying the industry in a positive or negative direction is something we will find out in years to come.

Fast Fashion Vs. Sustainable Fashion

The Rise Of Fast Fashion

Shopping used to be an occasional act that would be done for the season changing or the factor of outgrowing your clothes. However, shopping is now a daily/weekly activity. With the rise of fast fashion, this has caused a shorter life cycle for clothing, more trends to keep up with and cheaper clothing. But the main question of all is Why fast fashion? 

Fast fashion allows customers to shop the latest trends at a very cheap price. However, just like everything in life, it comes with a cost. Fast fashion is one of the largest contributions to pollution and resulting into exploitation of workers in third world countries. In the early 2000’s, fast fashion increased when digital shopping was at a peak. Brands such as TopShop, Zara and H&M produced knock off look alike items from expensive luxury brands and offered them at a much lower cost which allowed everyone to shop and wear the latest trends. 

The Destruction Of Fast Fashion

At the rate that fast fashion is going, we will destroy the Earth. There is so many negative effects fast fashion has on the environment such as, pollution due to the toxic textiles which will result into global warming as well as the massive waste of textiles. More than 500Kg of clothing gets wasted yearly and this is due to fast fashion. Consumers are trying to stay on top of the latest trends which is causing the product life cycle to decrease drastically.

Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion is clothing that is produced that does not have a big impact on the environment. An example of this can consist of the use of organic and natural materials, upcycling, ethical practices and many more. Not only does sustainable fashion focuses on the use of less harmful production, it also highlights ethical practices such as ensuring fair pay among the workers as well as ensuring that their work environment is safe. 

Is Sustainable Fashion The Future?

The fashion industry currently, has a huge negative impact on the environment and if we do not do anything to stop it right now, our environment and natural resources are in deep trouble. Sustainable fashion is the future, it solves all the issues we are currently facing with fast fashion. It creates a better impact on the environment by producing and using durable fabrics as well as making sure the workers are treated fairly and safe. The three top benefits of sustainable fashion are improving quality by creating durable products. With fast fashion comes a lot of consequences and one being the decrease in good quality products. However, sustainable fashion produces durable and high-quality products which results in longer life cycles which means less clothes will be wasted. Also, it also preserves the natural resources.

With the use of biodegradable and chemical free materials, we are protecting the environments natural resources like land, energy and water. Lastly, sustainable fashion is more cost effective in the long run as consumers will not need to be so much clothing as they do now. 

What Can We Do To Help

As consumers, this issue may not personally affect us right now, however, soon it will. What we can do to help is to be selective on brands we shop from, it would be more ideal to shop eco-friendly brands, as well as think about quality over quantity. There is no need to be shopping weekly and overflowing your closets and dressers, try investing into clothing with better quality so they can last longer. This will not only save you money but reduce the amount of clothes that get wasted in the landfills. Lastly, try upcycling your clothes before you think about throwing them away.

Play This Remix: A deep-dive into Toronto-based Designer, Natalya Amres, who has mastered the art of re-working and remixing fashion

In what world should art be bound by rules? Or in the fashion realm, why should we be bound by threads? The most joy from fashion is derived from the freedom to choose, wear, or even create. Within the past decade, designers across the globe have been able to execute their creative ideas through re-working clothes, which has been an excellent way to keep fashion sustainable while also offering endless possibilities for garments. If you live in or around Toronto and have not seen the work of Natalya Amres, can you even be sure you know about re-worked fashion?!

Based in Toronto, Canada, Natalya Amres is a designer who has been sewing for almost a decade and has launched her self-made brand, Remixed by Tal (now called The Altered Label) since 2018. Natalya is a prime example of cultivating your passions; in a past interview, when asked about what inspired her to pursue making clothes, she responds, “I’ve always loved making things as a hobby and it kind of organically turned into a business when I started posting my work on Instagram. I got really good feedback on my designs, so I just kept nurturing that path and until it grew into a business”. 

When it comes to re-purposed clothes, Natalya knows how to capture the eyes of fashion lovers while also being environmentally conscious. Her work can be recognized by clean-cut repurposed garments and accessories like handbags made from un-wearable items like tennis balls or basketballs, and even sneakers! Although her archive is ever growing, one of her most innovative pieces was her pink basketball corset, made from a Wilson basketball, which has gathered almost 3 million views on TikTok! On her instagram, you can also see her other incredible pieces like cropped Carhartt and Dickie’s jackets, re-worked denim jeans and skirts, and patchwork teddy bears. Not to mention, she has had her work worn by notable figures like the hip-hop group, Migos, and players from the Toronto Raptors like Chris Boucher and Gary Trent Jr. It is clear that Natalya is one with creativity when it comes to her craft, she has expressed her long-term goals in the fashion industry which focuses on environmental sustainability: “I'd love to eventually launch a self-sustaining line of products that is fully environmentally conscious and true to my brand and personality”. Natalya also does many collaborations and says that over 50% of her work is collaborative: “It’s a great way to get more exposure and experience working with other brands”.

Some of her most recent collabs include Footlocker Toronto, where she was given the opportunity to sell her work in retail stores; when asked about the steps it took to reach this big accomplishment, Natalya responds, “I’ve worked with the Footlocker team on many smaller scale workshops in the past, so I think developing a good relationship with them over the years is what led me to this collaboration”. Another collaboration includes her work with theScore Bet, where she repurposed numerous pre-owned jerseys and turned them into a patchwork logo mural for the company; the mural stands at 7.5 x 4 feet, and she claims it is her largest patchwork piece.

Of course, all of this work deserves some rest and personal time as well, so how does Natalya operate day-to-day? She tells, “If it's a workday I usually start working right after my morning coffee because I love having the benefits of natural light. And I’ll work throughout the day and usually will incorporate a workout or run to keep mentally alert. But with such an ambiguous job my days and schedule constantly change which keeps it fun and interesting!” As stated, Natalya is an avid runner and has also expressed how important physical fitness is to her: “I’ve been running 2-3 times a week and it has helped tremendously with my focus and clarity”. Not to mention, with such a busy schedule, it is crucial to stay organized, Natalya’s solution?

Google calendar and post-it notes! However, she also notes, “When it gets really crazy I’ll have to write the daily to-do list for the next day and check it off as I go”. Aside from designing and sewing throughout the week, Natalya has also been recognized for her hard work and creativity which has led her to be featured for Hershey Canada’s HERforSHE campaign, for International Women’s Day back in March 2022; this campaign featured 5 Canadian women across Canada and gave them their own individual wrapper for their chocolate bars! 

It is safe to say that when it comes to defining freedom with fashion, Natalya Amres has grabbed the definition by its reins. Her work showcases her creative innovation and how re-working clothes has infinite possibilities; that ill-fitting jacket you thrifted doesn’t have to limit your wardrobe, consider remixing it into brand new jacket, or purse, or even a dress! Aside from the creative liberty that repurposing clothes has to offer, it is also a great way to take a step forward in sustainable fashion. With the increasing negative effects of fast fashion, using second-hand clothes to create new garments is a step in the right direction to combat this environmental issue, so consider creating your own remix

The rise of comfort: How COVID impacted the fashion industry

The global fashion industry was significantly impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. The health crisis drastically changed the way this industry functioned, resulting in the closure of factories and stores as well as the rescheduling of fashion events. Clothing demand suffered a significant shift, with consumers preferring cozy, more casual looks and the decline of expensive apparel.

Moreover, digitalization and sustainability evolved as major trends that forced businesses to reconsider their methods. To put it briefly, the pandemic changed the fashion industry by forcing it to adapt to a new environment defined by changes in consumer behavior and the demand for innovation.

Due to the pandemic, many physical stores had to close temporarily or permanently due to the restrictions imposed to stop the spread of the virus, which resulted in a significant decrease in sales in physical stores. With the need for social distancing and fear of contracting the virus, many people opted to shop online instead of visiting physical stores. This accelerated the transition towards e-commerce in the fashion industry and the need to strengthen this channel and think about strategies to compensate for the lack of sales in physical points. Brands turned to e-commerce as a primary way to reach consumers which led to a greater emphasis on online strategies and digital marketing. After the pandemic, many people continued to prefer shopping online for the convenience of doing so from their homes and abandoned shopping in person.

The pandemic accelerated the adoption of digital technologies in the fashion industry, from online sales and marketing to virtual events and fashion shows. This has allowed brands to reach a global audience more effectively and efficiently. Most scheduled events and fashion shows were canceled or held in virtual formats, affecting brands' exposure and interaction with consumers. Which forced the fashion industry to adopt innovative technologies, such as augmented and virtual reality, to reach consumers in an online environment. 3D modeling gained a lot of momentum and several luxury brands have currently chosen to launch their collections for clients and buyers virtually, in order to save costs on renting a place, planning an event, music, food and everything that that launch implies.

COVID had also a significant impact on the way people dress and the preference for casual clothing. People opted for casual clothing instead of suits, elegant dresses and office clothes, which affected the sales of these products and augmented the demand for comfortable and loungewear. As people spent more time at home and focused on their health and well-being, comfort became a key factor in fashion and brands had to adapt to these new consumer trends.

Designers and fashion focused on the comfort and versatility of the garments, such as the inclusion of elastics and softer fabrics in office or formal clothing. We see it currently reflected in the baggy clothing trend, the return of baggy jeans, cargo pants and the oversized fit.

The pandemic led to an increased focus on sustainability in fashion as consumers and brands become more aware of the social and environmental impacts of the industry. This has led to significant changes in the way fashion is produced, consumed and promoted, with a greater emphasis on environmental and social responsibility. 

As more time was spent at home and mobility was reduced, people began to reflect on their consumer habits and their impact on the planet. There was an increase in demand for sustainable and ethical fashion and consumers became more aware of where their clothes came from and began looking for brands that cared about social and environmental sustainability.

Global supply chains were affected by the pandemic, leading to increased interest in local and regional production and also boosted the local economy. Due to delays in the global supply chain, manufacturers and distributors had to reevaluate their methods, which encouraged brands to search for more sustainable and effective alternatives like on-demand production and local manufacturing.

The pandemic has caused the fashion industry to face many obstacles, but it has also brought improvements in supply chain innovation, comfort, diversity and inclusion, digitalization, sustainability, and creative collaboration. Future manufacturing and consumption of fashion may be profoundly influenced by these changes. The fashion industry was given a pause and an opportunity of evolving according to Vogue editor Anna Wintour, reported by CNBC (May 20, 2020) “I think everybody is rethinking what the fashion industry stands for, what it means, what it should be.” 

Exploring Sustainability: Comparing the environmental impact of vintage and fast fashion

Fashion has a long history, and like a diary belonging to the world, it has recorded the evolution of human civilization and society. In ancient times, people pursued intricate designs; during the Renaissance, they sought exquisite and elaborate shapes. The emergence of the Industrial Revolution brought radical changes to the world, the fashion industry is changing with the times. Just as the younger generation embraced cheap clothes and followed trends, true fast fashion emerged. 

It developed affordable, trendy clothing to meet consumer demand, but it also fostered detrimental consumer habits. As more people revered the idea of "disposable" fashion consumption, overproduction led to not only waste but also considerable harm to the environment.

Fortunately, as people become more conscious of environmental degradation and climate change, they are reevaluating fast fashion. Fast fashion brands are now considering how to reduce their water usage and carbon footprint, and they are exploring the use of organic materials to reverse the environmental damage caused by their production. Simultaneously, consumers are turning to recycling and purchasing second-hand clothing to minimize waste. However, when considering the fashion industry as a whole, is fast fashion the only sector that contradicts sustainability? Perhaps not.

The Birth and Surge of Fast Fashion

Fast fashion is a revolutionary business model that emerged in the 20th century, ushering in a seismic change in the fashion industry's landscape. Characterized by its rapid production cycles and cost-effective strategies, the fast-fashion approach quickly captured the attention of consumers yearning for stylish yet affordable clothing.

ZARA, the renowned Spanish clothing brand, played a pivotal role in spearheading the fast fashion movement. From its modest beginnings as a small clothing store, ZARA's innovative approach to delivering trendy apparel at accessible prices propelled its expansion throughout Europe. Its resounding success paved the way for its foray into the highly competitive U.S. market, solidifying its position as a global leader in the fast fashion domain.

The transformative impact of ZARA's success reverberated across the industry, sparking a wave of fast fashion brands eager to emulate its triumph. Industry giants such as H&M, Forever 21, and Uniqlo swiftly followed suit, harnessing the momentum of the fast fashion phenomenon to establish their global presence. As a result, the fast fashion sector has solidified its status as a dominant force within the global fashion industry.

The Decline of Fast Fashion

The headline "Forever 21 files for bankruptcy in U.S., to cease operations in Canada" was published by CBC News on September 29, 2019, and has significantly impacted the fashion industry. However, Forever 21 once synonymous with "cost-effectiveness," is now being criticized as offering "poor quality" and "clothes that deteriorate after a few washes." These labels strongly suggest that the company has gradually compromised on costs and quality control in pursuit of higher profits.

In addition to their highly cost-effective nature, the abundant creativity they offer is a significant factor driving the sought-after status of fast fashion brands. Despite maintaining a prominent position in the fashion industry, Zara is currently grappling with various crises. Not long ago, if a girl sported a Zara dress, she would effortlessly draw admiring glances from passersby. However, the brand has recently faced repeated criticism for instances of plagiarism, and its apparent lack of remorse in such cases has left many disappointed.

Yet, perhaps the most crucial concern lies not in the quality and originality of fast fashion products, but rather in the detrimental impact they impose on the environment. Given that the fast fashion business model revolves around the rapid turnover of trends, it results in the accumulation of significant quantities of out-of-season clothing that ultimately find their way to landfills or incinerators. However, the speed and volume at which this inventory accumulates often surpass the capacity of landfills, thereby placing an enormous burden on the environment, which we all rely upon.

Embracing Alternatives to New Clothing Purchases

As people realize the importance of sustainability, their focus is gradually shifting from fast fashion to vintage fashion. People now hold a different perspective compared to the past, with second-hand clothing no longer being an object of their disdain but rather a newfound source of pleasure. People enjoy discovering one-of-a-kind clothing and accessories in vintage stores and derive pleasure from these unique finds. Moreover, the recycling of second-hand clothing further contributes to sustainable development.

However, due to the perception that avenues exist for clothes recycling, there has been an increase in the frequency with which people discard their garments. Unfortunately, not all of this substantial volume of second-hand clothes can be effectively recycled.

I recently had a conversation with the owner of Uncle Vintage in Kensington, Toronto. When I inquired about the secrets behind the store's success. He explained, "While we have a steady flow of customers, their demands often revolve around special products like The North Face puffers, Carhartt work jackets, or FFA jackets. Procuring these items can be challenging as they are rare, and I sometimes have to source them from South Korea and have them shipped to Toronto to avoid disappointing our loyal clientele. However, despite our efforts, our daily turnover remains less than one-tenth of what some retail stores in the mall achieve."

It's enough to make me marvel at the realization that an industry I once perceived as sufficiently profitable is currently grappling with such a challenging predicament. As highlighted by the owner of this vintage store, while the supply of second-hand clothing surpasses our imagination, only a handful of items meet consumer demand, leaving a significant amount of unwanted second-hand clothing to languish, awaiting either landfill or incineration. Relying solely on recycling bins to support sustainability proves ineffective, and whether one still prefers fast fashion or opts for second-hand clothing, the consequences of impulsive spending are detrimental to the planet we all depend on.

Cutting Edge: Angela Elter, costume cutter and drafting professor, on what it’s like to work in our favourite shows and films

If you’ve never had the distinct pleasure of having Angela Elter as your instructor for a pattern drafting class, then you might have seen her work on shows like The Umbrella Academy or Shadow Hunters: The Mortal Instruments. I ask Elter about her career as a cutter, as well as advice for those wanting to enter the costuming profession.

On the Set

Cutters like Angela draft the patterns for the costumes that the actors will wear, working closely with other members of the costume department like designers, sewers, and buyers. What it's like to work on set is largely project dependent, as different costume designers have myriad approaches— some might develop a design through reading a script, while others organize a design through a character breakdown.

Elter describes working with Christopher Hargadon on The Umbrella Academy as a highly creative process, for example, while other designers might lean towards a more methodical approach. Hargadon would create a sketch, and then collaborate with Elter to realize the costume. Shooting schedules are tight, and costume departments have to work around them; sometimes there simply isn’t enough time to realize a very complex design. When that was the case, Elter would suggest a different direction for Hargadon to take that would still fit the time frame. Elter and Hargadon would then discuss with the shopper about the different fabrics, fuse, and other materials to buy. Activity is non-stop in a costume department: while the shopper was out buying, Elter would create the pattern, completing it by the time the shopper returned. Sewers would then construct the costumes, ensuring an uninterrupted workflow.

The next step is the moment we've all been waiting for: the costume fittings for the actors! 

Depending on the shooting schedule, an A-list actor might have multiple fittings. Other times, there might only be enough time for one fitting. Actors try on as many costumes as possible during a fitting, and not all costumes make it onto the screen. Elter tells me that she's asked what it’s like to work with actors “all the time.” She finds that actors are generally very lovely to work with: they want to look good in their costumes, after all, so they’re on their “best behaviour.” Of course, all actors have their individual personalities and personas, but actors who are particularly difficult are usually new and don’t last long in the industry. Producers don’t want to hire or work with difficult actors, especially when there are so many talented actors available. 

Usually, the costume department is the first group of people the actors will meet on a set, so the costume department wants to make a good first impression. Most actors are Americans visiting Toronto for the first time, and costume departments are eager to treat them like guests and keep up a good relationship. For Elter, the best part of working is the creativity and the fast pace. A day in the costume department goes by quickly, which is vital because she might be working 11 or 12 hours a day, sometimes throughout weekends. Working in a costume department might be rewarding work, but only if you really like what you’re doing!

Making a Career in Costumes

Elter has been costuming for around 30 years, but her career trajectory took some detours along the way before arriving at film and television. When Elter first graduated from the Fashion Techniques and Design program from Sheridan College, the only fashion-related work available in Toronto at the time was in factories. Factory work didn’t appeal to Elter, so she worked in restaurants for the next decade. Elter was 30 years old when she decided she needed a change. 

She started working in costuming by styling rock music videos in the early 90s, but she received her big change in 1995. She was walking along River Street, near her apartment at the time, when she turned the corner on King Street and saw the George Brown Theatre School. Elter entered to find a beautiful costume office, and asked their costume department to hire her — and they did.

Pursuing costuming wasn't easy: Elter left a lucrative position as an experienced restaurant worker to make $11 an hour starting out in theatre. Elter gained costuming experience by working for various theatre companies, when she eventually got a call in 1997 from someone who knew her in theatre to work as a sewer in a film. Elter was then the lead cutter for a production of Salome produced by the Canadian Opera Company, which propelled her career as a cutter in film. Elter describes her career trajectory as a “full circle”— starting her costuming career at George Brown, then returning to work once again at George Brown to teach others pattern drafting now that she's an experienced cutter.

Closing Credits: Advice for Working in Costume

Elter shared a few pieces of advice for prospective costumers. First, you have to be a hard worker— always be eager to take on tasks and learn, and don't just sit and wait for work. Working in a costume department is on a contractual basis: once a contract is over, you have to find a new contract. Adapting to different types of people and different ways of working is important, as is being proactive about finding new opportunities. Lastly, she suggests finding a niche— you’ll likely start out as an assistant, so figure out what specific position appeals to you and keep working towards it. Maybe one day you'll get to bring iconic characters to life on stage and on screen, just like Angela Elter.

The Hedonistic Dilemma: Fashion vs sustainability

Indulgence in fashion and the pursuit of sustainability - Can they ever coexist?

Clothing can be a canvas for self-expression and a statement for sustainability, proving that fashion can embrace both beauty and responsibility

The modern mystery of hedonism vs eco-consciousness arises in a world where the pull of fashion frequently collides with the necessity for sustainability. Our increased knowledge of the environmental consequences of our perpetual need for the newest trends. How much of a commitment to fashion do we need to make before we realize that it's costing the Earth? Hedonism and sustainability are two sides of the same coin in the fashion industry, and that's exactly what this piece investigates. Fashion has always been a reflection of one's particular style, an artful representation of self. An indisputably hedonistic pursuit of pleasure is the temptation to buy that new outfit or pair of shoes, motivated by the excitement of possessing something fresh and stylish. However, what results when hedonism conflicts with the critical requirement of sustainability?

"Celebrate the pleasure of fashion, but let it be a joy that sustains both your style and the planet”

Fashion’s enticing allure

The fashion business has a natural power to captivate our needs, generating a continual cycle of consumption. It's nearly impossible to resist fashion, what with all the new collections, fresh off the runway looks, and trend-setting influencers. Our wallets and the planet both pay a price for our hedonistic obsession with the latest fashions.

Fast fashion has become shorthand for mass manufacturing and consumption due to its low-price points and rapid cycle of new trends. In its pursuit of satisfying our baser urges, this sector of the economy has led to widespread loss of natural resources, the generation of unnecessary waste, and the use of unethical working conditions. It is a hedonistic society in which gratification is instantaneous, but repercussions are put off indefinitely.

Sustainability Awareness on the Rise

At the same time, an increasing focus on environmental responsibility is creating waves. The harm done to the environment by the fashion industry, such as water contamination and carbon emissions, is becoming more well known. Sustainability is more than just a catchphrase; it's an essential strategy for addressing the environmental disaster we now confront as a species. This awareness is posing a threat to the hedonistic foundation of the fashion industry.

Ethics, moderation in consumption, and efforts to lessen the fashion industry's impact on the environment are all part of the sustainable fashion ethos. Instead of focusing on the latest trends, slow fashion prioritizes quality over quantity. But must sustainability undermine fashion's glamorous allure?

Can Fashion and Sustainability Coexist?

“Fashion and sustainability can coexist beautifully when we choose to be conscious consumers and embrace eco-friendly styles."

While hedonism and eco-friendliness seem to be at odds, it doesn't imply they can't coexist in the fashion industry. At this juncture, businesses must decide how to best provide consumers' need for individual expression while also protecting the environment.

• Organic cotton, recycled polyester, and leather alternatives are just a few examples of the eco-friendly materials that many major fashion houses are starting to use. Using these materials, shoppers can satiate their hedonistic cravings for fashionable apparel while reducing their impact on the environment. Utah-based fashion firm Cotopaxi's CEO Davis Smith believes that sustainable fashion can be promoted through product design. He said their firm is committed to providing lasting garments as ethically and sustainably as feasible. And they're leveraging that successful business model to help underprivileged areas. Talk about a win-win!
• The New Slow Fashion Slow fashion advocates for a departure from fast fashion's throwaway nature. It appeals to the hedonistic aspect of fashion without affecting the environment by advocating for the purchase of classic, well-made items that will last for years to come. 4
• Ethical fashion labels are proliferating, and with them comes supply chain transparency. As a result, shoppers will be able to make educated decisions that will allow them to indulge their "fashion hedonism" without compromising their morals.
• Pre-owned and vintage clothing: Thrifting and vintage buying are not only budget- friendly but also sustainable. They let people with a penchant for hedonism in the realm of fashion experiment with different looks without adding to the problem of overproduction.

Influence of Consumer Preferences

Consumers have the final say in every market. Whether or not fashion and sustainability can coexist peacefully depends on our decisions. It is possible to satisfy our hedonistic fashion needs without sacrificing our commitment to the environment. It is crucial to think about how our fashion decisions will affect future generations and the world at large. We can strike a balance between hedonism and sustainability if we buy from sustainable firms, use eco-friendly materials, and are otherwise conscientious shoppers.

“Fashion is the pleasure we wear with a purpose, an artful expression of style and a statement of conscious choices."

A Pleasure with a Purpose

To be fashionable is to express oneself creatively, to embrace one's own uniqueness, and to take pride in those qualities. It is a pleasurable activity that doesn't have to hurt the environment. In this delicate tango between hedonism and eco- consciousness, we can reach a balance where the pleasure of fashion is increased by the understanding that our choices are kinder to the world. When it comes to clothing, sustainability is not about deprivation but about seeking pleasure with a meaning.

Today's world presents us with the hedonistic paradox of choosing between fashion and sustainability. However, this obstacle can be overcome if we rethink our consumption habits and the products we buy. Sustainable practices are gaining popularity in the fashion industry, providing us with a means to indulge our materialistic cravings without jeopardizing the planet's future. Oh, George! magazine is in the front of this shift toward fashion as a trendy, environmentally friendly source of enjoyment.