As second-hand fashion skyrockets in popularity, both opportunities and challenges are created for small businesses as they navigate a tricky market.
In Toronto’s famous Kensington Market, it is a hub for vintage apparel, artisanal craftmanship, and delicious eats. One store in particular, Joy Zubair’s shop, Boho Chachies, hums with activity as locals and tourists alike browse the racks of carefully curated vintage pieces. Joy, a longtime vintage enthusiast, opened Boho Chachies in 2022 after initially selling through Facebook, Instagram, and Etsy. She is a joyful, well-known individual within the industry from connections through her previous dedication to Toronto’s much loved pop-up markets. Now she runs her own store as a community hub, giving local artisans and small businesses a permanent platform. Yet, while vintage fashion’s boom has fueled Boho Chachies’ success, it also brings challenges into the market for Joy and other small business owners. Joy states that when she first started, vintage was all about finding unique, quality pieces, and it still is, but others have taken advantage of the market’s growth. Joy’s experiences reveal how the explosion of second-hand fashion in Toronto has impacted the selling market and the habits of those who buy.
The Rise of Vintage Fashion and Boho Chachies
The steady increase of demand for vintage apparel started modestly and is now on the forefront of everyone’s Christmas list. Unlike fast fashion, vintage items are at the top of the food chain offering a unique story, quality, and sustainability that appeals to a new generation of shoppers. This shift hopefully isn’t just a fleeting trend, but an evolution to how people approach fashion, valuing timeless items that are responsibly sourced. Unfortunately, Joy Zubair perceived this shift in demand way before you and me, which was the spark to opening her own store in Kensington Market.
“I started with just two shelved of my own pieces,” she remembers, “and the rest of the space was filled with items from 20 different local vendors, all women-owned.” The vendor model was integral to her vision, allowing her to not just showcase her collection, but also support and watch grow other businesswomen in Toronto. Nothing screams well-curated more then multiple hardworking women selling in one room. Many of her vendors are people she connected with during the early days of the pandemic lockdown, when pop-up markets and social media were major spaces for small business owners to connect. Joy’s store has become a launching pad for these vendors, they have grown substantially to the point of needing their own HST number and gain the wonderful experience of doing taxes times two. The rise of vintage has given Boho Chachies an enthusiastic audience as people seek out sustainable, one-of-a-kind pieces. For Joy, the success of Boho Chachies has been a gateway to growth, building a community that values quality, connection, and environmental impact.
The Benefits of a Vintage Craze
Increasingly, buyers are drawn to second-hand stores and are more conscious of their choices. Joy notes that customers do their research before they even walk through the door, looking for 100% cotton or expensive, quality fabrics. Her customers are no longer looking for “ cool ” items, they’re looking for lasting, practical pieces which they will wear again and again . Finally, people are thinking past their Shein hauls! Consumers think about their purchases a lot more, “ if they are not in love with the item, they’re just not gonna buy it ” Joy says. This new consumer awareness has been a welcoming shift, allowing greater promotion over craftsmanship rather sheer quantity. Its not just the shift in consumer perspective that opposes fast fashion, but vendor-oriented stores like Boho Chachies that showcases a vibrant community space and promote small-time sellers. It makes you think, will multiple seller spaces be the new normal? Toronto’s rent definitely makes it seem like a possibility . Shoppers are provided with a space and quality you won’t find in large retail chains, driving the force behind small business growth and creating more opportunities for anyone to penetrate the market.
The Challenges of an Oversaturated Market
As anything goes, the rapid growth of vintage fashion isn’t without downsides. The Toronto market has become oversaturated with sellers who just don’t care. Numerous stories arise of people buying bags with dirty tissues (like really, you can’t even check the pockets?) or items not as described. More people jump to the scene wanting to capitalize on the profits and skip manditory cleaning and quality checks. Joy is concerned that this is getting out of control with those who are in it for the money not washing, repairing, or caring for the items they sell. Not to point fingers, even though I am, recently small time Depop sellers have gained this trait. Customers end up with ripped clothing or dirty items leading to customer disappointment, which overall, risk damaging the trust in reputable vintage shops. There’s also many misconceptions circulating that lead to some questioning the ethics of second-hand sellers . Theres a common belief that the clothing is overpriced, and sellers are profiteering off their items, but there are costs most buyers don’t calculate. Joy counters that sourcing high-quality vintage items involves extensive time, effort, and skill which the prices accurately reflect. You don’t have to see it to believe it, the overhead costs are there, especially from dedicated vendors . The market’s expansion is exciting but brings competition and misconceptions, raising questions about the standards and ethics of the market’s future.
Navigating the Future
Despite these challenges, Joy remains optimistic about the future of vintage fashion. She envisions multiple vendor stores like hers helping maintain high standards, support ethical practices, and provide platforms of growth for small businesses. She is proud of the impact her vendors have made, “ if they (vendors) want to open their own boutique, then do it. I want everybody to succeed.” Joy hopes to see more spaces like Boho Chachies, stores that value sustainability and craftsmanship. To her, building a network of genuine locally owned boutiques that prioritize quality is key to preserving the spirit of the Toronto vintage scene. As a buyer, pay close attention to who you’re buying from, and not to encourage your shopping habits, but please remember, high quality pieces are worth it.
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