Somewhere Between Flesh and Cloth
The Silent Revolution
Luxury’s Dirty Secrets
Boom or Bust? Impacts of The Vintage Fashion Craze
Second-Hand Nature: A Common Sort Gifting Guide
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1 Green Couture: Can Luxury Fashion Save the Planet?
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“Last Look” (George in the City) Fashionably Sustainable: Bradley Livingston
As fashion undergoes a transformative shift, we uncover the hidden stories of craftsmanship,
ethics, and sustainability driving change.
Fashion is evolving, and today’s trends go beyond fabric, colour, or cut. As consumers become
more conscious of the industry’s environmental and social impacts, many are looking for
something deeper than what lies between the stitches. This shift goes beyond aesthetics,
encouraging brands to rethink how clothing is made, who makes it, and at what cost to the
planet. From the revival of traditional techniques to cutting-edge innovations in sustainable
materials, the fashion industry is beginning to unveil the hidden stories behind our clothes. But
can these changes make a lasting difference in a field built on fast trends and quick
consumption?
Redefining Fashion From Fast to Fair
For decades, "fast fashion" has been dominated by rapid design cycles, affordable prices, and
seasonal trends. However, beneath the allure of affordability lies a darker reality: environmental
degradation, mountains of textile waste, and unethical labour practices. A new movement
toward ethical fashion is growing, challenging these harmful practices and advocating for a
more sustainable, fair approach.
Today’s consumers, especially younger ones, are increasingly mindful of what happens
between the stitches. They want transparency from the brand's insights into where fabrics are
sourced, how workers are treated, and the long-term impact of their purchases. According to
Stephanie Phair, Chief Strategy Officer of Farfetch, "Social media has enabled a certain
transparency. You can no longer control your luxury messaging within borders.” This new
landscape has led to a shift where brands focus on style and consider their impact on the world.
However, moving away from fast fashion’s exploitative model is challenging. Sustainable
materials, ethical labour, and transparent supply chains often come with higher costs that
brands may hesitate to take on. Despite these challenges, ethical fashion has become a guiding
principle for a growing number of companies and consumers alike.
The Craftsmen Behind the Clothes
At the heart of this sustainable shift is a renewed appreciation for craftsmanship. Artisans
worldwide are returning to traditional techniques of hand-weaving, natural dyeing, and intricate
embroidery that not only create stunning, unique pieces but also help preserve cultural heritage
and artisanal skills.
Consider the work of India’s Anavila Misra, a designer renowned for her handwoven sarees.
Anavila works with rural artisans in India, reviving traditional weaving techniques while ensuring
fair wages and safe working conditions.
This dedication to craftsmanship offers a counterpoint to fast fashion's mass production model,
allowing consumers to connect with the creators behind their clothing. Supporting artisans and
ethical brands means supporting fair wages, sustaining communities, and preserving skills that
might otherwise be lost in a rush toward low-cost production.
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Beyond supporting individuals, this movement provides a way for entire communities to thrive.
Brands like Maiyet and ABLE partner with artisans to ensure fair wages and promote a sense of
dignity and pride in their work. By choosing ethical fashion, consumers are helping to protect
that way of life, one stitch at a time.
Innovations in Sustainable Materials
Sustainable fashion is also being shaped by remarkable advances in materials. Textile
scientists and designers are reinventing the materials we wear, replacing traditional fibres with
eco-friendly alternatives that reduce environmental harm.
New textiles like Tencel, a fibre made from sustainably sourced wood pulp offer a lower-impact
alternative to cotton. Piñatex, a leather alternative derived from pineapple leaves, has become a
popular vegan option for accessories and shoes. Companies like Patagonia and Stella
McCartney are experimenting with recycled plastics and lab-grown leather to reduce reliance on
animal products and virgin resources.
However, while these materials offer significant benefits, they come with limitations. Sustainable
fabrics often cost more, making them harder for smaller brands to adopt and for some
consumers to afford. Additionally, the sustainable material supply chain is still developing,
meaning that access and availability can be inconsistent.
Despite these challenges, these innovative materials are helping redefine what’s possible in
fashion. As more brands adopt them, the hope is that costs will decrease, making sustainable
choices more accessible to everyone.
Confronting Greenwashing: Separating Fact from Fiction
Not all “sustainable” fashion is as it seems. As eco-consciousness grows, some brands are
more focused on marketing the appearance of sustainability than making actual changes a
practice known as greenwashing. By using terms like “eco” and “conscious” without real
transparency, they create a facade of environmental responsibility that can mislead well-
meaning consumers.
So how can you tell the difference? Start by looking for specifics. Brands genuinely committed
to sustainability are transparent about their sourcing, labour practices, and environmental
impacts. Labels like “100% organic cotton” or certifications like “B Corp certified” add credibility.
In contrast, vague buzzwords without clear explanations or certifications can be a red flag.
According to an August 2021 report by the Changing Markets Foundation, 60% of sustainability
claims by leading brands were found to be misleading or exaggerated (Eco-Business, August 2,
2021). Educating themselves on how to spot greenwashing can help consumers make informed
choices, supporting brands that are committed to making a real difference. By researching
before purchasing or supporting smaller, transparent brands, consumers can encourage more
brands to adopt meaningful sustainable practices rather than just putting on an eco-friendly
front.
Fashion’s Future: A More Ethical Industry?
While the fashion industry is far from perfect, the push for sustainable practices has opened
doors to significant change. Industry leaders believe that the next decade will be transformative,
with more brands adopting sustainable practices as consumer expectations and regulatory
pressures increase.
Some experts predict that sustainable fashion will become the norm rather than the exception.
Initiatives like circular fashion, where garments are designed to be recycled or reused instead of
discarded, are expected to become increasingly mainstream. “As an industry, we have to
measure our environmental footprint, and at Stella, our goal is to reduce that footprint, not to
replace it," says Stella McCartney, a pioneer in sustainable luxury fashion. "In order to be truly
sustainable in any business, your model has to have self-imposed limitations. We aren’t perfect
by any means, but we are always looking to improve" (Vogue, September 2020)
A New Era in Fashion: Moving Towards Sustainability
Sustainable fashion isn’t just a trend—it’s a new way of thinking about style, ethics, and
responsibility. As we peer between the stitches, we see more than just fabric and thread. We
see artisans, scientists, activists, and informed consumers, all contributing to a new era of
fashion that values the planet and people as much as it values design.
Fashion has always been about change, and this shift toward sustainability may be one of its
most profound transformations yet. With each garment that tells a story of ethical production
and thoughtful design, we’re reminded that what lies between the stitches matters. Sustainable
fashion may still be in its early days, but its impact is already unfolding—one stitch, one choice,
one conscious decision at a time.
“When it comes to fashion, sometimes you don’t
need to talk at all,” says Bradley Livingston, a second-year
fashion student at George Brown College. In the past
decade, topics of fashion and self-expression have become
controversial, as they usually spark an opportunity for
debate over the industry’s contribution to unattainable
beauty standards and unsustainable practices. At 19,
Bradley has created a way to be his ‘unapologetic self’
while still being mindful of his consumption and the
support of reputable brands. In economically stressful times where fast fashion is complicated to not
participate in due to its low prices, it’s still possible to progress through a new era of sustainable,
inclusive fashion.
Growing up in the fashion capital of Toronto, Bradley had an interesting self-journey with
fashion, crediting his primary influence as television and what he was surrounded by in his childhood;
“I give credit to the people around me. Everyone has been quite notably fashionable, especially my
mom - always dressing up with [her] for church every Sunday.” Bradley states that it is crucial to
always remember those who inspired you. By connecting with your interests, you can find your
authentic self-expression through those: “Looking at old family photos… reuniting with your inner
child. That’s what inspires me.” With pop culture at the tip of our fingers, it has become easier to look
for inspiration and delve into fashion. However, that also leaves space for falling into beauty standards
and harmful trends. I asked Bradley how fashion has impacted his self-esteem over the years. He
smiled and said, “This is most definitely my favourite question,” still smiling, he continued, “I’m
going to try my best to answer this question for you to understand correctly: Fashion has contributed a
great deal in filling in the gaps. [Even though] I was never all content with myself, I was still happy
with the fact that I’m not shy with how I dress.” Clothing can be a first step in finding yourself, as it
can be experimented with daily; it can be simple and still say enough about who you are.
With fast fashion being the main topic of the current fashion world, the global climate is not
the only thing that impacts fashion. With the rise of AI, it has become easier for fast-fashion brands to
scan designs by independent designers and sell the
same product for less. I asked Bradley how he feels
about fast fashion and its controversies, to which he
responded, “It does offer accessibility to those who are
less privileged and cannot afford high fashions,” which
is why it is such a complex subject. It’s much easier
said than done to just stop buying fast fashion, as one
may not be aware of the difference, especially with the
normalization of high prices on low-quality items. With
Bradley’s ever-evolving style, you would assume that
keeping up with current trends would mean over-consumption. Still, Bradley has created a routine to
make sure he is careful with his fashion choices. I asked, “What actions are you taking to promote
sustainability and inclusivity within your fashion journey?” he responded, “As much as I love
shopping, I just… don’t. I shop every 4-6 months, which I think gives
me enough time to reflect on the exact things I want, and think about
things that are more important than others in my wish list.” By
ensuring that you are not participating in the quick come-and-go
trends fast fashion has created, there need to be specific goals created
within your own fashion. By learning how to shop, you can ensure an
eco-friendly, fulfilling capsule wardrobe by making a wishlist,
avoiding the temptation to over-buy, and researching the brands you
buy from.
I asked Bradley what he envisioned as our next step in fashion. He thinks it is still possible
for the industry to improve: he responded to this question immediately by saying, “Some men actually
do want to wear heels!” Fashion inclusivity does not just include plus-sizes but also genderless
clothing and what is called the ‘pink tax.’ Already, in times of economic stress, women are more
likely to suffer at the hands of unfair pricing; the ‘pink tax’ refers to the phenomenon where items that
are catered toward women are more expensive compared to male products. Normalizing inclusivity
and genderless clothing can create a path toward equal pricing, which can further benefit the high
prices in fashion we see today.
“What advice would you give someone looking to cultivate their unique style?” I asked as
my final question, to which I got my favourite answer: “Live, dress, do something. Express yourself
today in a way you tomorrow can be proud of.” Throughout this interview, Bradley kept reiterating
how important it is to reconnect with yourself and constantly learn from others. Fashion is never a
consistent path that can always be predicted, and there is also no correct answer to how to participate;
“It takes time, but you can truly get to a state of mind where you can be so unapologetically you
where it repels what is not meant for you.”
From legal studies to luxurious custom outfits, Slayed by Ten's journey reveals the power of
passion and persistence.
In a cozy studio nestled in Scarborough, Ontario, Tenisha Thompson – better known as Slayed
by Ten – meticulously sews and styles one-of-a-kind outfits that celebrate the power of self-
expression. What began as a personal project while studying law has since blossomed into a
thriving business, where each stitch, seam, and detail carries her vision and commitment to her
clients. For Tenisha, fashion is more than clothing; it’s a medium through which she empowers
women to embrace their unique style.
Tenisha’s path to becoming a designer wasn’t straightforward. Originally, her ambitions lay in
law, and she spent years studying to become an attorney. "I was deep into my law studies," she
recalls, "but I’d always had this creative urge. Sewing was my outlet, my way to express myself
when I needed a break from books and exams." Sewing began as a quiet escape, a creative
corner she carved out amid the demands of law school.
Starting with simple designs, Tenisha gradually refined her skills, experimenting with cuts and
materials that brought her ideas to life. "At first, it was just for me – clothes that felt like me,"
she explains. However, it wasn’t long before her unique style caught the attention of friends
and classmates. People began asking her about her outfits, surprised to learn they were
custom-made. "They’d say, ‘You made that?’ And I’d see this mix of shock and admiration. It
was flattering, but it also planted a seed," she says, smiling.
Word of mouth quickly spread, and soon Tenisha found herself taking requests. Friends wanted
unique pieces for special occasions, and strangers reached out after seeing her designs on social
media. With each new request, her passion grew stronger, and she found herself at a
crossroads. "I was torn between continuing down the safe, stable path of law or taking a leap
into something completely different," she shares. The decision wasn’t easy, but ultimately, her
heart led her toward fashion.
Transitioning from law student to full-time designer wasn’t without challenges. "Leaving law
felt like jumping off a cliff," she admits. "It was terrifying, but the thrill of creating outweighed
the fear." Despite her initial hesitation, her legal background became an unexpected asset.
"Law taught me discipline and attention to detail – both of which are crucial in fashion," she
notes. These skills helped her build a strong foundation as she tackled the realities of running a
small business, from client management to logistics.
As her brand, Slayed by Ten, began to grow, Tenisha was committed to staying rooted in
Scarborough. "This community is part of who I am. There’s so much talent and creativity here
that often gets overlooked," she says passionately. By building her business locally, she’s
helping to redefine fashion for her community, bringing high-quality custom designs to clients
who might otherwise look to big cities or international brands.
Her clients, who often come seeking something unique and personal, resonate with her vision.
"People aren’t just looking for clothes – they’re looking for confidence, for a way to express
who they are," she explains. Tenisha’s designs are about more than style; they’re about self-
expression and empowerment. Each piece is custom-made, tailored not only to the client’s
measurements but to their personality. "I want every woman to feel like the best version of
herself when she wears something I’ve made," she says.
Creating a custom piece isn’t just about following trends or making something fashionable; for
Tenisha, it’s a collaboration. "When a client comes to me, we start with a conversation," she
says. "I want to know what inspires them, how they want to feel in the outfit." She spends time
sketching, sourcing fabrics, and perfecting details to bring her client’s vision to life. "It’s a
process, and it takes time, but that’s what makes each piece special," she adds.
This commitment to craft has built her a loyal client base, and with each new design, her
reputation grows. Her work, which spans everything from formal gowns to edgy streetwear, has
a distinctive style – bold, structured, and undeniably feminine. "I love playing with contrasts,"
she says. "Soft fabrics against sharp cuts, or classic silhouettes with unexpected details."
As she looks to the future, Tenisha has ambitious plans for Slayed by Ten. "I want to continue
growing, maybe even expand beyond custom designs," she says thoughtfully. She dreams of
launching a ready-to-wear line that captures the essence of her custom work but makes it
accessible to a broader audience. "Fashion shouldn’t be exclusive. I want every woman, no
matter her background, to feel she can find something that speaks to her," she shares.
Her vision extends beyond her business; Tenisha hopes to give back to her community by
mentoring aspiring designers in Scarborough. "I didn’t have a lot of resources when I started,
but I had passion," she reflects. She wants to create workshops and mentorship opportunities,
helping young designers find their footing in an industry that can often feel impenetrable. "If I
can pave the way for others, then my journey will mean that much more," she says.
Tenisha Thompson’s journey from law student to Scarborough’s custom fashion icon is a
testament to following one’s passion and embracing the unknown. With each custom piece,
she’s not only creating beautiful outfits but crafting a narrative of courage, creativity, and
community. Through Slayed by Ten, Tenisha continues to empower women, reminding them –
and herself – that true style is stitched from purpose and passion.
As consumers push for greener practices, haute couture faces a new challenge: Can luxury fashion stay true to its roots while embracing sustainability?
In the glittering world of haute couture, each garment tells a story of opulence and
painstaking craftsmanship. But behind the silk, sequins, and designer labels lies a growing
question: can an industry built on exclusivity embrace sustainability? At Paris Fashion Week,
conversations buzzed around collections that promise eco-friendly luxury. Yet, some fashion
critics and insiders remain skeptical.
To dive deeper into this complex question, I spoke with Dr. Emily Chen, a leading expert on
sustainable fashion and a professor of Sustainable Fashion at a reputed university in Bangladesh. According to Dr. Chen, "Sustainability in couture is not just about using
organic cotton; it's a complete reimagining of the process."
Luxury fashion is rooted in exclusivity, rarity, and the artistry of handcrafted design.
This industry uses rare, prestigious materials like silk, leather, and cashmere, alongside
labor-intensive techniques such as hand-stitching and bespoke tailoring, which result in
unique, high-quality pieces. However, these elements that define luxury often conflict
with the principles of sustainability. Sustainability in fashion emphasizes minimal
environmental impact, focusing on reducing waste, conserving resources, and using
renewable or recycled materials. This goal stands in stark contrast to luxury’s
traditional embrace of excess and exclusivity. For instance, producing a luxury item like
a $10,000 handbag from exotic skins is challenging to justify as “eco-friendly,” even
when brands market it as such.
The luxury sector relies heavily on high-impact resources. Leather, for example, is tied
to the cattle industry, which contributes to greenhouse gas emissions and deforestation.
Cashmere requires goat grazing, which can lead to desertification, and silk production
consumes significant water and energy. Precious materials like gold and diamonds,
commonly used in luxury accessories, often leave behind a trail of environmental
degradation, including water pollution and deforestation.
In response to increasing consumer awareness, particularly from Gen Z and
millennials, luxury brands are starting to adopt more sustainable practices. Many high-
end labels, such as Gucci and Stella McCartney, are exploring eco-friendly materials
and production techniques. Gucci has introduced sustainably-sourced leather and
committed to carbon neutrality, while Stella McCartney avoids leather and fur, opting
for innovative materials like vegetarian leather. However, these sustainable initiatives
are often limited to special collections rather than the brand’s entire lineup, raising
questions about the depth of their commitment.
A major challenge for luxury brands lies in balancing sustainability with the quality
and exclusivity that their consumers expect. Eco-friendly materials may lack the
durability or aesthetics of traditional luxury fabrics, and switching to sustainable
production can be complex. For instance, vegetable-tanned leather, a more eco-friendly
option than chrome-tanned leather, takes longer to produce and can feel different to
consumers. Lab-grown diamonds, though ethical, may lack the prestige associated with
mined diamonds in the eyes of some buyers.
Concerns about “greenwashing” also loom, as some luxury brands make sustainability
claims without making genuine systemic changes. By marketing “sustainable
collections” while using high-impact materials elsewhere, brands risk losing consumer
trust, especially as people become more skeptical of vague eco-friendly claims.
Ultimately, the clash between luxury and sustainability reflects differing values.
Traditional luxury values artistry, heritage, and status, often at the expense of
sustainability, while sustainability focuses on innovation and long-term environmental
impact. For now, hybrid approaches—limited sustainable collections, gradual material
changes, and transparent supply chains—are a middle ground. However, whether these
shifts can meet the expectations of modern consumers is yet to be seen. Luxury brands
must decide whether they will remain exclusive icons of the past or lead as pioneers of a
sustainable future.
Section 1: The Clash Between Luxury and Sustainability
"True couture has always been about excess and rarity," Dr. Chen explains. “There’s a
romanticism in these one-of-a-kind pieces, but that’s also the problem. The resources
required to create these garments—rare fabrics, dye processes, and air-freighted materials—
can be staggering.”
Dr. Chen emphasizes the inherent paradox: “Luxury fashion isn’t necessarily eco-friendly
because, by nature, it’s about scarcity and exclusivity. Sustainable fashion, on the other hand,
often focuses on accessibility, reducing waste, and recycling materials.”
Section 2: Sustainable Innovations in Couture
“There are exciting developments in the industry,” Dr. Chen notes. “Some brands are
experimenting with lab-grown fabrics, which require fewer resources. Others are opting for
plant-based dyes or small-batch production to minimize waste.”
She elaborates, “Brands like Stella McCartney are leading the charge by prioritizing
sustainability. McCartney uses sustainable materials without compromising on design
quality, proving that eco-conscious choices are viable even at the luxury level.”
Provide some specific examples from brands making strides in eco-friendly couture,
supported by Dr. Chen’s insights.
Section 3: Challenges and Industry Pushback
“Some designers feel that eco-friendly practices may dilute their creative freedom or the
quality of their collections,” Dr. Chen admits. “For example, sourcing sustainable fabric can
limit color or texture choices. Couture is all about pushing boundaries, and some argue that
sustainability could hold designers back.”
Dr. Chen adds that consumer expectations also play a role. “Luxury clientele expect
perfection, and sustainable materials can present quality and consistency challenges.”
Section 4: The Future of Sustainable Luxury
“I think the future is about transparency and innovation,” Dr. Chen says. “If luxury brands
can show consumers the sustainable efforts behind each piece, it adds a new layer of
exclusivity—one that values the planet as much as the design.”
Dr. Chen concludes with a hopeful vision: “Sustainability is a journey, and even the smallest
steps can lead to big changes. Couture may never be fully eco-friendly, but it can certainly
become more conscious.”
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, luxury brands stand at a pivotal crossroads.
Sustainability is no longer a niche demand but a fundamental expectation from a generation
that values both style and social responsibility. For luxury fashion to stay relevant, brands
must go beyond surface-level greenwashing and embrace real, lasting change—adopting
ethical practices, transparent supply chains, and innovative materials that lessen
environmental impact. Consumers, too, hold power in shaping this future by supporting
brands that align with their values. By choosing sustainable options, fashion lovers can drive
the industry toward a model where luxury and sustainability are no longer at odds, but work
in harmony, setting new standards for style that doesn’t compromise the planet.
As the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny, a debate emerges between fast fashion and sustainable alternatives. Is eco-friendly clothing the answer, or is it just a trend?
The true costs of fast fashion, including its reliance on cheap labor and
significant environmental impact, are becoming more apparent. While
some support fast fashion for its affordability and accessibility, a growing
number of consumers are demanding more sustainable and ethically
produced clothing. This ongoing discussion highlights the difficulties of
balancing cost and sustainability in a global industry.
The Appeal of Fast Fashion
Fast fashion is popular because it allows consumers to purchase stylish
clothing at low prices. Brands produce trendy items quickly and
inexpensively, meeting the constant demand for new styles. This model
also creates jobs, especially in developing countries, where many workers
are involved in production. However, the low prices come at a cost, as the
fast fashion industry often uses resources unsustainably and relies on
unethical labor practices.
The Rise of Sustainable Fashion
In response to these concerns, sustainable fashion is gaining traction,
emphasizing eco-friendly materials, fair labor practices, and durable
clothing. Many younger consumers prefer brands that prioritize
environmental responsibility and ethical production. However, sustainable
fashion often comes with higher price tags, making it less accessible to a
broader audience. Limited availability further compounds the challenge of
reaching all consumers.
Challenges with Sustainable Fashion
Sustainable fashion faces its own set of obstacles. One major issue is
greenwashing, where companies falsely claim to be eco-friendly without
implementing real changes. This can confuse consumers and damage
trust in genuinely sustainable brands. Additionally, the higher costs
associated with sustainable practices mean that many eco-friendly
options primarily cater to wealthier consumers, limiting their potential
impact.
Where Do We Go from Here?
To bridge the gap between fast and sustainable fashion, some brands are
innovating by using recycled materials or offering take-back programs for
used clothing. Consumers can also make a difference by choosing brands
that demonstrate a commitment to sustainability. Other trends, such as
digital fashion and clothing rentals, are exploring new ways to reduce
waste and promote sustainability in the industry.
Conclusion
The debate between fast and sustainable fashion presents both
advantages and challenges for consumers and the industry alike. As
consumer preferences shift and brands evolve, there is potential for
significant change. Ultimately, the question remains: what role do we
want to play in shaping a more sustainable fashion industry that benefits
both people and the planet?
Expert Insights: Anika Kozlowski
To delve deeper into the challenges of sustainable fashion, I spoke with
Anika Kozlowski, a noted expert in the field. According to Kozlowski, “The
primary obstacles for the sustainable fashion industry are greenwashing
and high costs. Sustainable materials and fair labor practices often raise
product prices, making them less affordable.”
She advises consumers to seek out brands that provide transparency and
certifications. “Genuine sustainable brands share information about their
labor conditions and production methods. Certifications from reputable
organizations can also indicate a brand’s commitment to sustainability.”
When asked about the future of sustainable fashion, Kozlowski expressed
optimism: “Yes, it can become more accessible and affordable. With rising
consumer demand, brands can innovate to lower costs and increase
production. Supportive policies and industry cooperation will also help
make sustainable fashion widely available.”
As we navigate this evolving landscape, both consumers and brands have
a role in shaping the future of fashion, ensuring that it is not only stylish
but also responsible.
From Gym to Runway: The Rise of Sneakers
Remember when sneakers were just for working out? Those days are gone! Sneakers
have taken over the fashion world, showing up on red carpets, in offices, and even in
important events. Let’s find out how sneakers went from gym wear to trendy fashion
statements and explore the cultural impact they’ve had along the way.
Sneaker Culture Takes Off
Sneakers used to be all about function. Designed for athletes and fitness people, they
were primarily meant for comfort and support. But over the years, they’ve transformed into
cultural icons.
Expert Insight: Dr. Marcus Lee, a fashion history professor at NYU, explains,
“Sneakers are more than just shoes. They’re a way to express yourself and connect with
different cultures.” This connection is particularly strong among younger generations who
use sneakers as a form of self-expression.
Celebrities Change the Game
The sneaker craze really took off thanks to celebrity approvals. Michael Jordan’s deal
with Nike in the 1980s was a game-changer, making sneakers not just athletic but also a
status symbol. His Air Jordans became a must have item for fans, and their popularity has
only grown over the years.
Nowadays, stars like Kanye West and Rihanna are designing their own lines that sell
out in no time. Kanye’s Yeezy line, in particular, has created a massive following.
Quote: Sarah Chen, a fashion influencer with millions of followers, puts it simply:
“Sneakers are the new heels. They’re comfy, stylish, and can totally change an outfit.” SO
many people agree and say they also prefer comfort without sacrificing style.
The Sneaker Collectors
Sneaker collecting has exploded into a huge industry. What started as a hobby for
some has turned into a serious business for many. Limited edition releases create excitement
for the collectors, leading to launches where fans camp out overnight just to get their own
pair.
The luxury fashion industry is often synonymous with elegance, prestige, and exclusivity. But behind the glitz and glam lies a world stained by scandals, raising questions about ethics, authenticity, and sustainability.
The allure of luxury fashion is undeniable. Names like Gucci, Loro Piana, and
Hermès have built empires on aspirational beauty and exclusivity. Yet, the
industry has faced scandals that have shocked even the most devoted fans.
From controversial ad campaigns and accusations of cultural appropriation to
environmental neglect and labor issues, these incidents reveal the complex,
and often troubling part of high-end fashion we often look to for inspiration.
Cultural Missteps and Tone-Deaf Campaigns
Despite their global reach, some luxury brands have repeatedly
stumbled into controversy due to culturally insensitive designs and
advertising campaigns. One notable example is Gucci, which faced backlash
in 2019 for a balaclava knit sweater that many said resembled blackface.
The protest was quick and widespread, with customers and activists
condemning the brand for a lack of cultural awareness. According to the NPR,
Gucci responded with an apology, a product recall, and a promise to create
initiatives to improve diversity and cultural sensitivity within the company.
However, the incident highlighted the industry’s disconnect from the
communities it often draws inspiration from.
Another infamous case is Dior’s 2021 ad campaign promoting its
Sauvage fragrance, which featured imagery inspired by Native American
culture. The campaign included actor Johnny Depp dressed in traditional
Indigenous attire, with a backdrop of a Native American dancer. Many
accused Dior of perpetuating stereotypes and exploiting Indigenous culture
for profit. After significant public backlash, as reported by WWD Dior pulled
the campaign and apolgized, but the damage was already done. This
incident served as a cautionary tale for brands failing to collaborate
authentically with the cultures they borrow from.
Sustainability and Environmental Responsibility
While luxury brands have embraced sustainability as a buzzword, their
environmental records are often inconsistent. Highlighted by BBC News,
Burberry made headlines in 2018 for destroying over $36 million worth of
unsold products to protect its brand's exclusivity and avoid markdowns. The
eye-opening actions caused widespread outrage, with environmental
activists and consumers condemning the brand's wasteful practices. Giving
into pressure, Burberry announced it would stop burning unsold merchandise
and pledged to become more sustainable. Yet, critics argued that this
response was reactive rather than proactive, raising doubts about the
sincerity of the brand's environmental commitments.
Labor and Manufacturing Practices
The stark divide between luxury fashion's branding and the conditions
under which products are made has been exposed repeatedly. Investigations
have revealed that some luxury products by Prada, labeled "Made in Italy"
are produced under exploitative conditions, as reported by Tracy Wilkinson
for Los Angeles Times. In one case, Chinese immigrants in Tuscany were
found working long hours in unsafe factories, producing leather goods for
major fashion houses. These workers were paid significantly less than Italy’s
legal minimum wage, revealing a harsh reality behind the luxury price tags.
Such revelations have sparked calls for stricter labor regulations and greater
corporate accountability.
Recent investigations led by Milan’s court, reported by Emilio Parodi for
Reuters, have exposed labor exploitation in the luxury fashion supply chain,
implicating suppliers for brands like LVMH and Armani. Reports revealed that
workers, often undocumented immigrants, endured hazardous conditions,
long shifts, and meager pay to produce high-end goods. For instance, some
were paid just a few euros an hour, while the handbags they made sold for
thousands. Fabio Roia, head of Milan’s court system, urged luxury firms to
strengthen oversight and cultural responsibility. Milan’s court findings, as
discussed in an April 13, 2020 piece by The Independent, have urged for
more oversight from these brands.
As reported by Sandra Lopez for Remezcala, Loro Piana, a brand
celebrated for its luxurious cashmere and rare Vicuña wool, has come under
fire for allegations involving the mistreatment of Peruvian Indigenous
communities responsible for Vicuña wool production. The brand has failed to
pay fair wages to these workers, prompting backlash from human rights
groups and concerned consumers. Known as "the fabric of the gods," Vicuña
wool is subject to strict sourcing regulations, yet accusations of exploitation
persist. This controversy emphasizes the need for more ethical and
transparent practices in luxury fashion.
Animal Rights
Hermès has faced intense scrutiny for its treatment of animals in the
production of crocodile and alligator skins used for their iconic Birkin bags. A
PETA investigation revealed disturbing practices, including keeping reptiles in
tiny cages and slaughtering them under brutal conditions. The New York
Times, on July 28, 2015, detailed how the scandal erupted into public view.
This caused Jane Birkin, the British actress and singer after whom the Birkin
bag is named, to request that her name be dissociated from the product until
Hermès could guarantee ethical practices.
Hermès defended its practices by stating that they have established
strict animal welfare standards and work closely with suppliers to ensure
humane conditions. The company vowed to conduct regular audits and
implement improvements where necessary. Jane Birkin later reinstated her
name association with the brand after Hermès assured her of the changes.
However, the incident underscored the ongoing concerns about animal
welfare in luxury fashion, sparking further debate on whether using exotic
skins is justifiable in today’s more ethically conscious world.
These scandals tear away the glossy facade of luxury fashion, exposing
a world where cultural insensitivity, environmental harm, labor exploitation,
and animal cruelty still exist. With consumers increasingly demanding ethical
practices, luxury brands are at a turning point: they must embrace
transparency and prioritize sustainability or risk tarnishing their elite status.
True luxury should not come at the cost of human rights, the environment, or
cultural respect. Moving forward, the industry must commit to a more ethical
and responsible vision to meet the demands of a more conscious world.
Countless hours of thought and focus go into the perfect gift for a loved one, and that’s
not even engaging with the high-ticket price tag that often accompanies those coveted items.
with the holidays coming straight at us it raises the question, is a second-hand gift considered
less of a gift because it’s been loved before? Well with a thought like this, it diminishes the
gesture that’s being offered. Being granted the fabulous opportunity to sit down with one of the
most well-established Buy-Sell-Trade intrapreneurs in the city of Toronto, Nicole Babin, owner
of Common Sort, who has agreed to give her authentic response of how second-hand gems are
the gift that keeps giving.
A Little History of Common
A little bit of background to start off with. Common Sort is an iconic buy-sell-trade store open to the
public that has been around for just shy of 20 years. Nicole (who has lived a life that would make every teenage
girl envious) has single-handedly mastered what second-hand should be. an operation that benefits both her
small business and her community, and one that serves customers of all ages and backgrounds.
This Business started with the simple yet powerful thought. Selling clothing on the side
to scrape by and have a cute handbag could turn into something that thousands have dreamed of
doing, but the difference between those who merely dream and Nicole, is that she took action.
While her company started with a passion for fashion, its grown to serve a deeper purpose.
Providing stylish clothing for those who may not afford new items, such as new mothers looking
Second-Hand Nature: A Common Sort Gifting Guide.
for a blouse for dinner or possible a teenager needing a fleshy studded belt. Common Sort Exist
for those who need it, appreciate it, and celebrate it.
To better understand the ins and outs of Buy-Sell-Trade stores, we enlisted the owner of
one of Toronto’s top thrift stores. Alongside Nicole Babin, we have August Gunson, acting
manager of one of the three Common Sort locations and is a buyer with an eye for what people
want. These two vintage Vixens offer an insightful yet tasteful perspective on the impact a store
like Common Sort can have.
What makes second-hand gift-giving so special? "A second-hand gift can be 100 times more unique
than one that’s fresh off the rack. It speaks volumes about how you see that person and who they are to you. If
you’re gifting something that was specifically asked for, it sucks the fun out of it. It’s supposed to be more
thoughtful than an Uber gift card,” Nicole explains.
How do you address any stigma surrounding the idea of a second-hand gift? August shares, “When
considering a gift for someone that’s second-hand, obviously there should be some boundaries. I wouldn’t be
thrilled if I got a pair of underwear from the Salvation Army for the holidays. But I personally don’t think there
should be any second thoughts around a second-hand gift. For people like myself, just about everything I own is
second-hand, apart from some things. A gift that’s being passed on for a second chance of appreciation should
be recognized for what it is and appreciated for its intent. Some people will forever be stuck in their own ways.
You can’t really force the acceptance of second-hand onto everyone. The stigma can come from generations
before us, who used donation services as a second garbage bin. People who appreciate second-hand can relate to
the fact that one diva’s trash is another diva’s treasure.”
What advice would you give to someone looking to give a second-hand gift that feels meaningful and
thoughtful? After a brief pause, Nicole thoughtfully responds, “When you’re buying someone a gift, especially
if it’s second-hand, you want to play to the character they are and how you authentically see them. A generic
Second-Hand Nature: A Common Sort Gifting Guide.
gift can be nice in that moment, but if there’s no sentimental value, it’s practically worthless.” She further adds,
“It’s important to know who you’re shopping for. Put yourself in their shoes and imagine what would mean the
most to them.”
Behind the Scenes:
Here at common sort the process seams seamless, clients bring in their clothing with the chance to trade
in for some new goodies, or for a cash price of a quarter of what they price things at. But more often than not
the service that is provided for us as common sort fans go underappreciated. At this store things are hand-picked
by the buyers on duty to provide good quality, lightly used Gems for a fraction of the price. This second-hand
store is perfect for the ones who are shopping for others this year. Having the advantage of having hand selected
gems for you to pass on as gifts this year takes half the uphill battle of picking out that perfect gift. The goal of
Common Sort is to make stylish finds accessible either for yourself or for the ones who matter most to you this
holiday season.
All in all, a second-hand gift feels like second nature to many, as it reflects a shared value: cherishing
and appreciating pre-loved items. This mindset is what the world is shifting towards. While DIY gifts hold a
special place, the luxury of buying a new gift is often overlooked. For some, second-hand is the only option,
and for many, it’s something to celebrate. Hopefully, our readers now recognize that a second-hand gift is truly
a gift that keeps on giving.
Sincerely, your 20 something Fashion Diva
We are back, baby!
We are so far back that we have ended right in the 90’s. SuperModels are icons once again and
there is this gray cloud looming over all of our heads, the lightning is the flash from a young
girl's phone filming a body checking video for TikTok and the thunder is the voices of young
women preaching pro ana rhetoric from SuperModels past. The storm is brewing.
During the past few decades of the 2000’s there was a certain shift around what became the
standard for beauty, a necessary birth of diversity and inclusivity within the fashion industry.
Although, there has been change within the fashion world, one could say that efforts are done so
begrudgingly, to appease the outcry of those who were being genuinely affected by the
negligence. From the recent revival of viciously thin models headlining major campaigns, as
well as celebrities using prescription medication (not for its intended use) to lose weight– to
websites posting articles titled “Bye-bye booty: Heroin chic is back, posted by the New York
Post in 2022– I have to pause and think, has the fashion industry ever really made any progress
at all, ever?
I could not help but to think about those who were actually in the modelling industry, watching
these terrible, dare I say, trends take place in real time all while they’re posing in front of the
camera.
My curiosity led me to Aisha South, a 23 year old plus-sized model who is based in Toronto and
Montreal. Over coffee, South recalled how she felt about the industry before she entered it, “It
felt glitzy and glamorous.” she chuckled, “but it’s really quite awkward.”. She let me know that
there were things that went unsaid during shoots that eventually you learn to pick up on, for
example, when you are doing well and the photographer is happy with the work they will
reassure you. However, when the photographer is not happy with the work being done they will
get quiet, and the studio becomes an awkward environment. South states “If it’s quiet, you’re
bombing.”
Production for shoots and campaigns are collaborative work environments, photographers,
stylists, models and other crew should all be on the same page for what they are expected to
deliver. Sadly, this is just not the case. South brought up the issue of styling, and how some
stylists– although they have the models exact measurements– bring garments that will simply
just not fit the model. “I’ve worked with stylists that have been in the industry for 20 plus years,
they should know what they’re doing, and some just don’t seem to care to have the correct size
for you.”. The bare minimum for fashion shoots is for the clothes to fit but South states that, “I
think they [stylists] just want to say they’re inclusive.”
One shoot in particular that South looks back on with ill regard, is one she did for a well known
Canadian plus size clothing retailer (name left out intentionally). Where she was asked to
purchase her own padding to bring for the shoot in order to fit some of the clothing she would be
modelling. While on set she overheard people talking about how the company did not hire
someone who fit their description because their rates were too high.
When she mentioned this, the reality of extreme elusiveness in the industry really set in.
There seems to be a disconnect between the conversations the fashion industry says they are
having– with the actions they are actually committing. There can be talk, talk, talk, about change
but it will only happen when words are implemented by action.
This leads me back to where I started on my journey. Is the modelling industry not really willing
to change and is that the reason we have so swiftly returned to the danger zone of past decades?
It is no secret that the fashion space is one that is polarizing; a place where people get to express
themselves and have creative freedom, that’s why we are all here, isn’t it? But toxicity is still
rampant, we have to be cognisant of the space we are entering. How can we, as future designers,
store owners and fashion industry workers see the missing pieces and work to change vital
wrong doings in our own industry.
While young people, like South, show up to do their jobs, those behind the scenes at agencies,
clothing companies, photographers and stylists should equally show up and do theirs, and do it
properly. When plus sized models are made to feel like the company they are hired to do a shoot
for doesn’t truely want their clothes to be plus sized, it is making these spaces undesirable for
young people to go out and pursue these endeavours.
Thrifting has increased in popularity over the years as fashion trends turn to emphasize
sustainability and unique styles influenced by the past. Sustainability efforts by many brands and
designers in the fashion industry has grown as a trend focussing on young, advocated generations
impacted the most by global issues like climate change. As Gen Z myself, efforts to decrease
contribution to environmental issues and landfills are valuable while shopping.
The Benefits of Thrifting Popularity
Sustainability in fashion has pushed many to shop consciously and thrift for fashion
forward and vintage pieces. Thrifting is beneficial for the environment and a sustainable
shopping practice that is fun while being cost and consumption protective. Increased popularity
in thrifting has resulted in a reduction of clothing contribution to landfills, longer life spans of
clothing, a decreased rate of overconsumption leading to mindful spending and a cost effective,
affordable approach to shopping and fashion. Sustainable shopping has also decreased the
demand for fast-fashion pieces which contributes to the reduction of clothing in landfills.
The Consequences of the Sustainability Trend
Although an increase in thrifting and sustainable shopping habits are beneficial for the
fashion world, with anything, an increase in demand leads to an increase in price. Stores
emphasizing sustainable practices have upped prices knowing that the conscious consumer will
spend the extra money to purchase recycled and environmentally friendly pieces. This goes with
everyday brand efforts such as H&M following their recycling program, but it also has been a
noticed issue with current thrift stores. Popular thrift stores have taken advantage of the
sustainability trend by increasing prices as demand rises to capitalize on the desires of consumers
without fully contributing to the environmental efforts. Greenwashing is a major issue revolving
around popular brands known for fast fashion. This is why in order to be a fully conscious
consumer research is significant before purchasing. Big brands like H&M mentioned earlier may
have recycling efforts in place, but not all garments are fully used. Recycling and donations by
large companies also can be used to receive tax write offs. Efforts do not always have a
sustainable motive.
Regarding thrift stores, there has been ongoing controversy with Value Village
specifically, and its influx in prices for merchandise donated to them. Driving prices up for items
that were once affordable is capitalizing on the thrift trend and makes once affordable options for
clothing for those who needed it, unattainable. It is not just fashion forward individuals who
enjoy thrifting; there are families and individuals out there who only have thrifting as an option
for clothing. It is not just the prices that are a disadvantage for these consumers either: an
increase in popularity of thrifting minimizes the availability of clothing options as well.
Are All Thrift Stores Sustaining Ethical Efforts and Pricing?
One type of retailer that has grown in popularity alongside the thrift trend has been
consignment shops. We have all seen the baseline effects the sustainability trend has been having
on businesses and consumers with raised prices and increased popularity, but what do businesses
think about these actions from the inside? I interviewed a local Plato’s Closet manager with eight
years of experience about shifts and patterns noticed in the business as a result of the
sustainability trend and she has also noticed an influx in prices, however, not as a direct result of
demand.
Is Plato’s Closet a Sustainable Brand?
“Yes, I would say that Plato’s is a sustainable brand. By buying and selling gently used
clothing, we reduce waste and promote the recycling of quality items that may otherwise end up
in landfills. This resale model supports a circular economy, allowing people to refresh their
wardrobes affordably while extending the life of clothing.”
Has Plato’s Closet Grown in Popularity as a Result of the Sustainability Trend?
“Yes, absolutely! Thrifting’s popularity has boosted our business and brought more foot
traffic into the store, especially by Gen Z shoppers. Consumers are increasingly looking for
budget friendly clothing options that allow them to maintain their style, making our store a great
choice for those wanting to save money.”
Do You Believe Plato’s Closet is One of the More Affordable Thrift Options Out There?
“Yes, I believe Plato’s is one of the more affordable thrift options out there alongside
regular thrift stores selling donated items. In contrast to vintage stores and resellers, we aim to
keep our prices low and provide our customers with cash for their items, creating a beneficial
cycle. This affordability makes us a great choice for shoppers looking for quality clothing at
accessible prices. A bonus at Plato’s Closet is curated, we select our product. So, it’s an easier
shopping experience.”
Have Prices Gone Up Through the Years as a Result of Increased Demand?
“Prices at Plato's Closet have increased slightly over the years, similar to trends in mall
stores. However, these changes are very minimal. Our prices are not a result of increased
popularity. Instead, large demand for a specific category will drive those prices lower. This
approach helps us remain competitive and affordable while still reflecting the value of quality,
gently used clothing.”
Do You Feel That Plato’s Business Ethics Have Been Maintained Through the Years?”
“Yes, I believe Plato’s Closet has maintained strong business ethics, especially regarding
sustainability. We promote responsible consumption by offering affordable, high-quality
secondhand clothing, which reduces waste and extends the life cycle of garments. By
encouraging customers to buy and sell gently used items, we minimize the environmental impact
of the fashion industry.”
While most thrift stores have attempted to raise prices and take advantage of their
increased demand, not all stores are greenwashing and have unsustainable motives. Prices for
any store go up with inflation, but there is a difference between pricing accordingly on economic
changes and capitalizing on increased demand. Research on renewable practices and brands is
crucial for conscious consumption and investing in proper, sustainable brands to ensure that
pricing and practices are sustained. Sustainability has become more noticeably popular which
has its benefits for the environment but has also led to sustainable motives to be unsustained in
business practices.
The Victoria’s Secret fashion show being back in 2024 is an insanely important
influence on fashion today. Now there are two arguments as to why this show is
important and why there is the belief that it is not important. The Victoria’s Secret
fashion show is legendary and has been popular ever since it first started being
produced in 1995. In the beginning, the fashion show was considered risky and bold,
but then became a huge success for Victoria’s Secret. The argument that the
Victoria’s Secret fashion show was hugely influential on the fashion industry. It’s
probably more popular than the ladder. The main reason for this is the fact that
before this show, it was not really known for companies to do fashion shows to
launch their lingerie lines. This concept being popularised was hugely impactful on
the fashion industry because it paved the way for other companies to market their
lingerie in the same way. It also opened up opportunities for other lingerie companies
to open up and be more successful within their clothing. An example of this is
savage x fenty by rihanna. This company arose as a florist by also doing fashion
shows for their lingerie. Another reason that the Victoria’s Secret fashion show was
highly influential is the fact that it became known for its beautiful models. Victoria’s
Secret angels became the blueprint for what every girl wanted to be at the time. This
made the success of the company huge. On the other hand of the argument, you
could also say the Victoria’s Secret angels were highly damaging to society. The idea
of being a Victoria’s Secret angel back in the 90s and early 2000s was the image of
being overly skinny and having no flaws whatsoever. The reason this could be
damaging to society is because it taught young girls at the time that that’s what they
should strive to be, even though it was an unhealthy lifestyle. Another reason that
the argument of the fashion show being damaging to the fashion industry is that
having a fashion show for a lingerie line would risk the integrity and damage the
image of the company. The reasoning for this is that people on the side of the
argument would believe that Victoria’s Secret as a company should not be promoting
the sexualization of women. This could be argued because it leaves a bad
impression for young girls. Some could argue that the impression being left on girls
is that they should be showing off their bodies anywhere and everywhere. Neither
argument is necessarily right or wrong but speaking for the overall influence on
fashion Victoria’s Secret infamous fashion show was highly influential on the
industry. When speaking to people on this topic, the important question to ask is
WHY do you think the Victoria’s Secret fashion show has or had a huge influence on
the industry today? The reasoning being that there will always be a different answer.
In a modest Toronto tailor shop, an immigrant couple witnesses a heartening trend:
younger generations embracing handcrafted cheongsams, bridging cultural heritage with
modern sensibilities
In a modest shop tucked away in a bustling plaza on Steeles Avenue East, Auntie
Song carefully guides her chalk across silk fabric, marking precise measurements that will
eventually transform into a masterpiece of Chinese tailoring. Her hands move with the
confidence that comes from decades of experience – and a heritage spanning over a century.
"When my great-grandfather started this journey in Shanghai's International
Settlement in the early 1900s, he couldn't have imagined his craft would find new admirers in
Canada," says Song, who owns LeeYonge Bespoke Tailor with her husband. Together,
they've maintained this family legacy since immigrating to Toronto thirty years ago.
Working side by side in their shop, the couple has become more than just tailors –
they're cultural custodians. While Mr. Lee focuses on the intricate pattern-cutting, Auntie
Song handles client fittings and the delicate embroidery work. "We complement each other,"
she says with a warm smile. "In this business, you need four hands and two hearts working as
one."
The revival isn't just about fashion, it's a cultural renaissance. "Today's young people
want to connect with their heritage in a meaningful way," Song explains, smoothing a piece
of intricately embroidered fabric. "They don't just want to wear a cheongsam; they want to
understand its story, its craftsmanship, and its cultural significance."
This renewed interest comes at a crucial time for traditional tailoring. For three
decades, LeeYonge has maintained its presence in Toronto, preserving techniques that have
been passed down through four generations. Each cheongsam requires at least 30 hours of
meticulous handwork, involving dozens of precise measurements and multiple fittings.
However, the revival faces significant challenges. "Finding young apprentices willing
to learn this craft is difficult," Song admits, while her husband nods in agreement. "It takes
years of practice to master the techniques. Many are deterred by the time investment
required." Despite offering apprenticeship opportunities, they have had only two serious
inquiries in the past year.
The price point also reflects the artistry involved, custom cheongsams at LeeYonge
start at $1,500. Yet, customers increasingly understand the value. "When they see the hand-
rolled edges, the precise pattern matching at the seams, the personalized fit – they recognize
why preserving these skills matters," Song says.
The shop's walls tell their own story, decorated with photographs spanning decades:
Song's great-grandfather in his Shanghai workshop, her parents teaching her the trade, and
recent snapshots of young clients beaming in their custom creations. Each image represents a
thread in the continuing narrative of Chinese tailoring tradition.
"What gives me hope," Song reflects, as her husband carefully cuts a pattern nearby,
"is seeing young people choose slow fashion over fast fashion, tradition over trends. They're
not just buying a dress, they're investing in cultural preservation."
As fashion trends come and go, this quiet renaissance of traditional craftsmanship
suggests a deeper shift in consumer values. For the younger generation, wearing a
handcrafted cheongsam represents more than style – it's a bridge between past and present, a
statement about cultural identity, and a vote of confidence in the enduring value of artisanal
craftsmanship.
Back in their workshop, Auntie Song begin another fitting session with a young
client. As they pin and adjust the fabric together, they're not just creating a garment, they're
continuing a legacy, one stitch at a time.
Do I need this or am I just experiencing the essence of ennui? Nowadays, everyone is In dire
need of the comfort of convenience in our daily lives, thus where online retail therapy plays
a big part.
Fast fashion and online shopping; the dangers to mental health
The convenience of fast purchasing through influencer storefronts - with a click of a
button and you too can have all the items shown in said video. Why does it not bring as much
joy to consume anymore?
I have wondered why as a consumer feeling as such. I believe that there’s a sense of
self-soothing as a way to cope with our daily lives. Retail therapy and how this entangles
with our emotions, the Instant gratification from online shopping and the cause of easy
convenience turned to impulsive spending. Online shopping is an easy influence on
impulsivity especially from how saturated the constant advertising and promoting of things
we are told are needed to buy. This is a constant state causing a lack of appreciation for what
has been purchased. Which leads to a lack of specialty in those garments or items that are not
appreciated. The Sense of emptiness when the short-lived happy purchase is not what it
seems, glamorized by the media. This skyrockets the stress levels to overconsumption or
even hyperconsumption. According to an August 15th, 2024 article by ScienceDictect
authors Julia de Koning, Mariangela Lavanga, and Wouter Spekkink, “fashion and clothing
consumption is a Social activity (Briceno and Stagl, 2006). In the social environment of
young adults, purchasing less clothing may not be seen as a normal behaviour”. Fast fashion
and how celebrities and or influencers encourage cheap fashion for paid endorsements rather
than promoting it because they actively enjoy and wear said items. The normalization of
buying garments that are just “ok” when previously it used to be the idea of purchasing
higher quality garments and getting said garment perfectly tailored to your body to be
something you actually love and will wear constantly.
Social media influence on consumerism
The Influence of excess of things furthers the demand for the excess of mass production.
The social media ticket word of categorizing everything to aesthetics, how it comes into play
with overspending when you can’t afford that habit. Social media's constant overexposure to
promotions and advertisements to buying more and more - leads to buyer’s fatigue and no
sense of joy in buying.
The excitement is watered down through the excess of options of basically the same exact
products. Lower-quality items or garments that are not made to be lasting in a way that keeps
having us buying more and more simply because it is not satisfactory in expectation, makes
all sense of a disappointment which leads to trying to find something better to purchase
follow soon after. Hoping that hard-earned money goes to something long-lasting and truly
something to cherish, ends in constant disappointment as many things are made poorly.
The realities of thrifting and its certain cons
Are clothing items being donated because of their cheap quality or because they are not
trendy anymore?
Is donating back cheap clothing that has never been used as an ease to the conscience habit
to keep buying?
There's still a sense of unsustainable practices with constant “thrift haul” videos shown on
social media specifically, YouTube. The outcome of this is still contributing to
hyperconsumption with the added sense of doing this constantly or even daily for
entertainment purposes.
The saying Quantity over quality comes into play as a consumer of second-hand fashion
myself. The pros, buying second-hand clothing is a very sustainable way to consume fashion.
This lessens the chance of over-consuming fast fashion garments and redirects the consumers
to buy clothes that are perfectly good quality clothing that will go to the landfill if the
garments were not donated to second-hand shops. Secondly, consumers can be very creative
with finding clothing that is unique and is possibly made of better quality than fast fashion
items nowadays. Lastly the price. The price of second-hand clothing can be very inexpensive,
which is a better alternative to buying poor-quality fast-fashion clothing, which is
unsustainable and can be expensive.
However, that being said there are some cons to thrifting because of how popular it has
become in the past few years. Firstly the cost has gone up, which makes buying second-hand
increasingly more difficult for people who rely on thifting being very affordable compared to
fast fashion which is not great and still can be expensive to many. Also, because thrifting has
become so popular many consumers will buy pounds and pounds of clothing and then soon
after, return all the items which quite possibly be thrown out into landfills if not purchased
again, creating waste. Lastly, if not careful buying second-hand clothing that is fully synthetic
and cheaply made, will deteriorate quicker, thus having to buy more clothing often and throw
out the old falling apart garments in the landfill later on.
On an ending note, I leave you with a question from an April 18th, 2024 article in Fashion magazine by author Isabel B. Slone: “Over time, as I have negotiated my own impulses, I have begun to wonder, “Is it possible to rid oneself entirely of the desire to consume?
As second-hand fashion skyrockets in popularity, both opportunities and challenges are created for small businesses as they navigate a tricky market.
In Toronto’s famous Kensington Market, it is a hub for vintage apparel, artisanal craftmanship, and delicious eats. One store in particular, Joy Zubair’s shop, Boho Chachies, hums with activity as locals and tourists alike browse the racks of carefully curated vintage pieces. Joy, a longtime vintage enthusiast, opened Boho Chachies in 2022 after initially selling through Facebook, Instagram, and Etsy. She is a joyful, well-known individual within the industry from connections through her previous dedication to Toronto’s much loved pop-up markets. Now she runs her own store as a community hub, giving local artisans and small businesses a permanent platform. Yet, while vintage fashion’s boom has fueled Boho Chachies’ success, it also brings challenges into the market for Joy and other small business owners. Joy states that when she first started, vintage was all about finding unique, quality pieces, and it still is, but others have taken advantage of the market’s growth. Joy’s experiences reveal how the explosion of second-hand fashion in Toronto has impacted the selling market and the habits of those who buy.
The Rise of Vintage Fashion and Boho Chachies
The steady increase of demand for vintage apparel started modestly and is now on the forefront of everyone’s Christmas list. Unlike fast fashion, vintage items are at the top of the food chain offering a unique story, quality, and sustainability that appeals to a new generation of shoppers. This shift hopefully isn’t just a fleeting trend, but an evolution to how people approach fashion, valuing timeless items that are responsibly sourced. Unfortunately, Joy Zubair perceived this shift in demand way before you and me, which was the spark to opening her own store in Kensington Market.
“I started with just two shelved of my own pieces,” she remembers, “and the rest of the space was filled with items from 20 different local vendors, all women-owned.” The vendor model was integral to her vision, allowing her to not just showcase her collection, but also support and watch grow other businesswomen in Toronto. Nothing screams well-curated more then multiple hardworking women selling in one room. Many of her vendors are people she connected with during the early days of the pandemic lockdown, when pop-up markets and social media were major spaces for small business owners to connect. Joy’s store has become a launching pad for these vendors, they have grown substantially to the point of needing their own HST number and gain the wonderful experience of doing taxes times two. The rise of vintage has given Boho Chachies an enthusiastic audience as people seek out sustainable, one-of-a-kind pieces. For Joy, the success of Boho Chachies has been a gateway to growth, building a community that values quality, connection, and environmental impact.
The Benefits of a Vintage Craze
Increasingly, buyers are drawn to second-hand stores and are more conscious of their choices. Joy notes that customers do their research before they even walk through the door, looking for 100% cotton or expensive, quality fabrics. Her customers are no longer looking for “ cool ” items, they’re looking for lasting, practical pieces which they will wear again and again . Finally, people are thinking past their Shein hauls! Consumers think about their purchases a lot more, “ if they are not in love with the item, they’re just not gonna buy it ” Joy says. This new consumer awareness has been a welcoming shift, allowing greater promotion over craftsmanship rather sheer quantity. Its not just the shift in consumer perspective that opposes fast fashion, but vendor-oriented stores like Boho Chachies that showcases a vibrant community space and promote small-time sellers. It makes you think, will multiple seller spaces be the new normal? Toronto’s rent definitely makes it seem like a possibility . Shoppers are provided with a space and quality you won’t find in large retail chains, driving the force behind small business growth and creating more opportunities for anyone to penetrate the market.
The Challenges of an Oversaturated Market
As anything goes, the rapid growth of vintage fashion isn’t without downsides. The Toronto market has become oversaturated with sellers who just don’t care. Numerous stories arise of people buying bags with dirty tissues (like really, you can’t even check the pockets?) or items not as described. More people jump to the scene wanting to capitalize on the profits and skip manditory cleaning and quality checks. Joy is concerned that this is getting out of control with those who are in it for the money not washing, repairing, or caring for the items they sell. Not to point fingers, even though I am, recently small time Depop sellers have gained this trait. Customers end up with ripped clothing or dirty items leading to customer disappointment, which overall, risk damaging the trust in reputable vintage shops. There’s also many misconceptions circulating that lead to some questioning the ethics of second-hand sellers . Theres a common belief that the clothing is overpriced, and sellers are profiteering off their items, but there are costs most buyers don’t calculate. Joy counters that sourcing high-quality vintage items involves extensive time, effort, and skill which the prices accurately reflect. You don’t have to see it to believe it, the overhead costs are there, especially from dedicated vendors . The market’s expansion is exciting but brings competition and misconceptions, raising questions about the standards and ethics of the market’s future.
Navigating the Future
Despite these challenges, Joy remains optimistic about the future of vintage fashion. She envisions multiple vendor stores like hers helping maintain high standards, support ethical practices, and provide platforms of growth for small businesses. She is proud of the impact her vendors have made, “ if they (vendors) want to open their own boutique, then do it. I want everybody to succeed.” Joy hopes to see more spaces like Boho Chachies, stores that value sustainability and craftsmanship. To her, building a network of genuine locally owned boutiques that prioritize quality is key to preserving the spirit of the Toronto vintage scene. As a buyer, pay close attention to who you’re buying from, and not to encourage your shopping habits, but please remember, high quality pieces are worth it.
Social media has advanced the fashion industry, transforming how trends are created,
spread, and consumed. Platforms such as Instagram, Facebook and TikTok have become virtual
runways, where styles and trends can go viral in an instant and new designers can showcase their
creations to a global audience. Viewers become easily influenced which is why this is the new
affordable marketing technique. Although, the way in which trends come and go has begun to
heavily contribute to overconsumption, leading to struggle when it comes to sustainable fashion.
These micro-trends further promote disposable consumption rather than pushing timeless, high
quality style.
Trendy today, Gone tomorrow
It is quite obvious that there are more issues to social media fashion influencing than just
staying in the loop or attempting not to waste money. In an interview with Stella McCartney, she
discusses the impacts social media has on the fashion industry, specifically, micro-trends that
encourage overconsumption. McCarthy states that this cycle not only pressures consumers to
constantly buy but also creates challenges for sustainable brands that focus on quality and
longevity over rapid trend cycles. For consumers, it’s becoming harder to prioritize quality and
longevity when trends change so quickly. She highlights that sustainable brands face an uphill
battle, as they’re competing against the allure of cheap, fast fashion that social media constantly
promotes.
Style and Sustainability, Learning Balance
The struggle between staying fashionable and supporting sustainability is a constant
challenge for many consumers. Social media fuels the demand for new styles at lightning speed,
making it tempting to buy inexpensive, trendy pieces from fast fashion brands like H&M, which
rapidly churn out new collections. However, brands like Reformation offer an alternative,
focusing on sustainability by using eco-friendly materials and ethical production practices. While
Reformation’s designs are stylish and trendy, they also come with a higher price tag, reflecting
their commitment to sustainability. This leaves consumers with a tough choice, to follow the
latest trends affordably but unsustainably, or invest in brands such as Reformation that prioritize
ethical production but require a larger investment. This balancing act highlights the shift in
consumer awareness as people try to adapt while having a love for fashion with a desire to
reduce their negative environmental impact. Ultimately, consumers are at a turning point, faced
with the choice between staying on top of every single trend and embracing sustainability. As
social media continues to promote rapid fashion cycles. High end quality brands show that it’s
possible to prioritize both style and ethics, although this often comes at a higher cost. The
challenge now is for both consumers and the fashion industry to find ways to make sustainable
fashion more accessible and appealing, creating a balance between the desire for new styles and
the responsibility to protect the planet and not feel the need to dress like everyone else.
Nostalgia goes Viral
Social media has even gone as far as created new names for existing trends in order to
make them more popular and trending. It has taken aesthetics like cottagecore and Y2K from
niche interests to fashion movements. Platforms such as TikTok and Instagram have turned these
styles into viral trends, where influencers show off outfits that fit specific “vibes.” Cottagecore,
with its floral, feminine, vintage inspired look, gives off an innocent, simple feel. Whereas, Y2K
fashion brings back the fun, flashy vibes of the early 2000s. Think low-rise jeans, butterfly clips,
and tiny sunglasses and diamonds. These aesthetics have become so popular that mainstream
brands are jumping on board, offering their own cottagecore dresses or Y2K-inspired pieces to
meet demand. It’s no longer just about individual taste; social media has made these aesthetics
into lifestyle choices that influence what we buy and wear. This takes away from uniqueness,
forces people to hop on trends as soon as they can and gravitate to fast fashion brands that are
also quick to stock their shelves with the latest trendy aesthetics.
Eliminate clutter from your life! Build a timeless and sustainable wardrobe full of quality pieces to reduce overconsumption and de-clutter your life. Here's why splurging on timeless, classic, long-lasting items can increase sustainability, save you money, and make getting dressed easier every day.
With fashion trends moving faster than ever, capsule wardrobes offer a refreshing solution. A capsule wardrobe is essentially a strategic selection of a small number of high-quality staple items. Think of classic jackets, good-quality jeans that are a great fit, and thick and cozy sweaters. All of these pieces could be mixed and matched an endless amount of times. Your capsule wardrobe does not need to be filled with 50 items to keep you in style. The best part of a capsule wardrobe is only needing a few pieces that you actually love to wear! Why does everyone want a capsule wardrobe?
Quality Over Quantity
The principle of a capsule wardrobe is based on the idea that less is more. It's not about buying tons of super cheap items, unlike fast fashion, but instead, it is about building off of quality pieces. According to Who What Wear, the key is choosing clothes hewn from quality materials like wool, silk, or responsibly sourced leather so your pieces will look good longer and will stay intact with regular wear.
When investing in high-quality pieces you will see that your clothes are staying in style for years. High-quality materials tend to not only look better but they tend to hold up through seasons, so you're not replacing things constantly. Upgrading your closet will also help in tackling the fast fashion problem, where cheap disposable clothes add up to an environmental wasteland. According to RTÉ, building a capsule wardrobe around durable, timeless pieces is one of the best ways to fight back against the "throwaway culture" of fashion, Beard Guru Australia.
The Cost-Per-Wear Benefit
While it feels like a lot to be spending on one piece, items that last longer often end up saving you money. Cost-per-wear is literally just the price of an item divided by how many times you'll realistically wear it. So, that $200 coat you wear 100 times actually costs $2 per wear, which ends up being a lot better than that $40 that falls apart after 2 wears.
Think about a classic trench coat or a leather handbag. According to The Elegance Edit, these are the types of things that will fit into a capsule wardrobe and hold up for frequent wear.
However! These pieces will be more expensive upfront, but in the long term, they will hold their value. The cost-per-wear benefit also relates to sustainability. Each quality piece has a longer life which will cause fewer replacements and overall less waste. Instead of buying low-cost, low-quality items on a regular basis, you are buying staples you actually will be able to keep around.
From impulse buying to informed investing! Not only does this save you money in the long term, but also makes you feel good about your purchases knowing that they will last you a long time. Building your capsule wardrobe is also a more sustainable way of consumption. Each piece of your wardrobe is intentional.
Capsule Wardrobes Make Everyday Dressing Easier
Another great reason for building your capsule wardrobe is how much easier it's going to make your daily routine. Simply with fewer clothing items which you all love and work well together, you can make your favourite outfits so much faster.
Instead, you're working with a streamlined set of clothes that are versatile and fit your style. It's also such a fun and feel-good way to find your personal style by building up a capsule wardrobe. Invest in yourself! Begin investing in pieces for your daily needs: well-made jeans, neutral tops, or a classic coat. And you don't need to go out and buy everything at once, take it slow. You can build up a capsule wardrobe over time, adding investment pieces here and there.
This way, you can also avoid impulse purchases and actually make selections that actually suit you and your lifestyle.
The capsule wardrobe will help you wear timeless basics over the need to follow every trend. However, this does not mean everything is boring neutral basics, but are more so full of pieces that can be styled in different ways and will feel relevant for many years. As fashion experts have pointed out in the RTÉ article, capsule wardrobe is not about limiting style; it is rather about creating a meaningful connection with your clothes and moving towards your sustainable lifestyle.
How Your Investment Pieces Impact Fashion Sustainability
Capsule wardrobes and investment pieces are not only about simplifying your closet but also about the shift in the way we consume fashion. According to experts, high-quality, timeless essentials might be worth the higher upfront cost because, with longer wear, they are less frequently replaced. Your wardrobe will contribute directly to sustainable fashion in that it reduces demand for inexpensive, disposable items of clothing.
The more people who begin to build their capsule wardrobes the more brands will have to shift to more high-quality, ethical production. Once more consumers begin to swear by well-made, lasting items over trendy pieces, the industry has to catch on. Brands that have gained a lot of attention in the last few years highlight great quality craftsmanship and responsible sourcing as more and more consumers become conscious of their purchases. Ultimately, capsule wardrobes are about building a wardrobe that doesn't just look good but also aligns with your values.
One purchase at a time! We can create a wardrobe that makes our lives easier and has less environmental impact by purchasing fewer, higher-quality goods. After all, a closet full of things you truly love to wear is worth more than a collection of items that you barely ever wear. Invest in yourself and feel proud of your purchases.
Internet memes are becoming more than a source of humor; they’re turning into fashion statements. How are consumers responding to meme fashion, and what strategies are brands using to bring memes to life?
Wearing Humor: The Rise of Meme Fashion
Internet memes have become an everyday language, blending humor with quick, shareable messages. Today, memes have expanded beyond the digital space to influence the world of fashion, as brands actively incorporate them into marketing and design to engage with consumers.
Young people, in particular, have embraced meme fashion. Twenty-something college student Andrew Lee explains, “Meme fashion isn’t just clothes; it’s a way to express my personality and sense of humor.” He points to his shirt, which prominently features a popular meme character. “It’s cool because it connects me with people who get the same jokes,” he adds.
From Meme to Fashion: No Seriousness Required
One reason for the popularity of meme fashion is its lightheartedness. Fashion is often perceived as serious, but meme fashion invites consumers to take it less seriously. Fashion psychologist Dr. Emily Kang notes, “Meme fashion allows people to express humor through their clothing, giving them a fun way to show who they are.” She adds that “meme fashion even acts as a coping mechanism, helping people relieve stress through what they wear.”
Brands’ Meme Strategies
Some fashion brands have turned to memes as a key part of their marketing. Gucci and Balenciaga are prime examples, both known for their “meme campaigns” that capture consumers’ attention. Gucci recently caused a stir by posting images of popular meme characters wearing Gucci items on their official social media. Gucci’s digital marketing manager explains, “Memes make our brand feel more relatable.”
However, the longevity of meme fashion is uncertain. Some fashion experts believe that humor-driven trends tend to be short-lived. Because memes are consumed and discarded quickly, for brands to establish meme fashion as a sustained trend, they need to back it with storytelling and consistent content updates.
A Passing Trend or a New Form of Self-Expression?
Whether meme fashion will pass as a fad or become a new form of self-expression is still up for debate. Fashion scholar Catherine Chung observes, “Meme fashion should be understood differently from traditional fashion because it’s based on fast consumption.” She adds, “There’s no rule that fashion has to last long. If it gives consumers a fun way to express themselves, it’s valuable in its own right.”
Meme fashion breaks the mold, offering consumers a way to feel joy and freedom through what they wear. As digital culture continues to shape our world, it remains to be seen whether meme fashion will establish itself as a lasting trend or simply another fleeting craze.
Last Look: Unwrapping
the New Year: Sustainable Fashion Trend...
Sustainable clothing and ethical garments have been a buzzword for many brands that claim they are doing this, however, in hindsight, this could be untrue…
Overconsumption and Environmental/ Ethical Importance in Fashion
I have noticed that in the fashion industry, to make something sustainable and ethical such as leather being replaced by faux leather. It makes you think if this is sustainable.
Generally, fake leather is made out of either polyester or thermoplastics. Thus when creating the garment the process still creates a lot of pollution and is bad for the climate. Also, it’s not sustainable by not being long-lasting and, therefore going into a landfill. In order for a company to be ethical by not making garments out of leather or fur, why replace them at all if the result is still unsustainable. Generally, for most independent brands, there is a bigger sense of attention and care when it comes to sustainability and ethical practices. An example of this is handmade garments such as knitted sweaters that are made from wool and will last a long time but are a bit more expensive, instead of a synthetic sweater that goes into the landfill from a big brand after 2 years of wear.
Romantizing Nostaligia and Micro Trends
Why do clothes not last and why is this the case, this can be evident through the romanticization of nostalgia, chasing the past and how you can see the differences in the present quality of garments versus back then. The parallels of micro-trends and nostalgia play a big part in fashion today, as these trends are surrounded by particular aesthetics that feed off many nostalgic aspects into one outfit—watching many videos through social media such as TikTok and or YouTube shorts, Micro-trends through fashion influence being at an all-time high. Recreating outfits through multiple influences, are garments pieces that are constructed in noticeably poorer quality than their past influential counterparts. Through the lenses of a fashion consumer myself, purchasing secondhand clothing is not only more sustainable in a lot of cases, but the quality of said clothing is as well. Nowadays, purchasing brand new clothing through fast fashion brands specifically, it is evidence of the quality that you receive versus how clothing was constructed a generation ago.
The Life cycle of garments in the 21st Century
This issue is because of many reasons. One example of this is inflation being at an all-time high in 2024. Good quality fibres and fabrics that would have been affordable a few decades ago are now becoming almost unattainable to purchase nowadays. “The price of high-end women’s dresses climbed an average of 250% between 1998 and 2010” (Lee 14:56). For this reason fast fashion and the use of polyester which is very cheap to use is still huge and prevalent, even with the resurgence of buying second-hand and being more mindful of sustainability. Big companies and corporations such as Zara, H&M, and Urban Outfitters are fast fashion brands that not only cut costs on good quality fabrics instead, use mostly synthetic materials such as polyester, and also cut corners when it comes to the finishes of garments.
This causes garments to not last long and deteriorate quickly, thus creating tons of waste to go into landfills. In general, many people cannot afford luxury items, unlike the higher class, on average many consumers do not sew their own clothing as decades before would. In order to have good quality clothing, sewing your own garments was the solution to not being able to afford expensive garments. Now consumers turn to fast fashion as that solution. However, this is not sustainable and creates pollution when being made and being thrown away.
