The $3,000
trillion Textile and Garment industry is among the most profitable, employing
over 60million people across a global network that spans both the developed and
developing world alike. In this age of global consciousness, our clothes link
us to each other in ways we never previously considered. Therefore, it is not surprising
to see why increasing concern is placed around the origins of our clothing and
fashion pieces.
As
a personal shopper, the most common phrase among clients looking to reinvent
their image is ‘I have nothing to wear’. This all too common phrase is used
never really used by people who literally have nothing to wear, but by those
with a closet full of less valuable clothing. Despite overstuffed closets hoarded
with numerous pieces of clothing, shoes and accessories, it is somewhat
challenging to imagine why most people still cannot seem to gracefully put
together a coherent outfit. A majority
of us are unaware of the actual pieces amassing space in our closet, many of
which are duplicates, unworn pieces, and clothing that find their way to
landfill too early in their garment life cycle. It is impossible to foster a
new habit when we see the result of the old on a daily basis.
The Fashion
Problem
In
recent years, the rise of fast fashion has given way to the former traditional
emphasis people had on quality, well-made fashion. This newer, unsustainable
model, insists on producing clothing that is far cheaper both in price and
quality at an increasingly faster rate than never before. Although the idea of
cheaper and quicker made clothing may present themselves as commercial benefits
brought about by this essentially innovative business model, the cost of
conducting such a business are not nearly
enough to justify the gains. Such costs, which are only now being
factored into the total cost of production, include that of natural and human
capital.
Fast
fashion leads to two major problems, including large scale depletion of the
natural environment caused by landfill and unregulated factory emissions. This
model also fosters an unsustainable global supply chain that is incapable of
supporting industry workers by providing fair wages and safe working
conditions. Essentially, fashion-ability now comes at the expense of human
lives, and the environment. As the second largest polluting industry worldwide,
following that of Oil and Gas, drastic changes are eminent in the fashion
industry. As of September this year, Burberry announced to fold several of its
brands and only stage two seasonless collections, where both men’s and women’s
would be showcased. Although this may translate to less profits upon
implementation, the brand is challenging the idea of seasonal dressing from a
shopper’s perspective. This is definitely a game changer that will eventually prompt
other brands to follow suit.
As
of December 2015, China’s clothing manufacture now accounts for 54% of global
production. Last year alone, the country produced 71 billion meters of clothing
which ET Retail now values at $23.5 billion. This figure is actually decreasing
due to the rise of cheaper clothing manufacturing in Bangladesh, Cambodia, Vietnam,
and the Philippines. Although many might argue that outsourcing clothing
production created jobs in developing countries, it has also made countries such
as Bangladesh, heavily reliant on the garment industry which really does not
contribute to the rise of more Bangladeshi International clothing brands.
In
the aftermath of the 2013 Rana Factory collapse, western shoppers are now
demanding more transparency regarding the origins of their clothing. Since fast
fashion is a direct response of consumer demand, it is only appropriate that we
become more responsible about our shopping decisions. We are saying that a $10
or $20 t shirt is not worth the suffering and death of thousands just like us.
Style is no longer the single determining factor for choosing to purchase from
a given brand. Instead, other factors such as the brands commitments to
upholding human rights laws, reducing, if not eliminating the environmental effects
of their business, and not surprisingly, the results of such actions.
Getting
Down to Business
Three potential solutions
to the problems caused by fast fashion are changing what we buy, how we buy them,
and how we eventually use them. The ultimate goal is to lengthen our garment
life cycles, in order to deter more textile waste from entering landfill. This
would eventually lead to less cluttered closets, higher quality purchases, and
a more definitive idea of personal style. After all, in the words of Coco
Chanel, ‘Elegance is refusal’. The idea is to think quality over quantity, and
keeping the amount of clothing coming into, and leaving our closets, at a
minimum.
Step
1 – Changing What We Buy
This
requires us to first determine our personals style before attempting to build a
wardrobe around said aesthetic. Cleansing your closet is always a great way to
start. Assessing your current closet for areas of improvement, estimating the
monetary value of your closet, and evaluating shopping habits allow you to not
only create an optimal shopping budget tied to a specific time frame – be it
monthly, quarterly, or annually – but also gives you a clearer understanding of
what works and what doesn’t. Ensure that discarded items are either personally donated
to friends, family, and the homeless – It is no longer enough to dump them into
large donation bins without caring about the fate of these items. Instead, items
can also be reused around the house in innovative ways – Let your creativity
run wild!
Step
2 – Changing How We Buy
This
step entails the most work on our part. In an attempt to properly align both
our personal style, beliefs, and core values, research is required. Research is
not limited to brand name apparel brands, but includes alternative ways of acquiring
clothing such as local independent retailers and chains, vintage, local and
foreign artisans, bespoke, trading / swapping web communities, and DIY.
Step
3 – Changing How We Use
This
final step focuses on finding ways to lengthen our garment lifecycles – such practices
include styling devices like layering and mix n’ matching. Any great stylist
would tell you that the possibilities are endless even with a few pieces of
clothing. Learning proper care tips is another crucial step in extending
garment cycles. Ask your mom, local garment cleaners, retailers, and fashion
students and professionals, the more knowledgeable you are about garment care
the more value you will place on your closet. Lastly having a good tailor,
eco-friendly garment cleaners, and cobblers are very important for performing
repairs to damages or ill-fitting items, in an attempt to lengthen usefulness.
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