Is eco-friendly fashion just a
marketing hook?
According to Wikipedia the term
‘greenwashing’ refers to a form of propaganda in which green marketing is
deceptively used. They use it to promote awareness that the organization’s aim
and policies are environmentally friendly. Companies use it to reach out and
manipulate their consumers into believing they are making a positive change to
help the environment and to also increase their profit.
Many
people have been trying to join the “green trend” since the early 2000’s.
Companies have now gotten wind of the growing trend and are now trying to also.
Companies have been realizing that a lot of their consumers want eco-friendly
product, so they have been slowly changing their ways. They are now finding
different ways they are able to make and manufacture their clothing that is
more environmentally friendly for the earth and consumer. The only problem with
this is companies realizing these certain changes would benefit their profit
and consumer base, some are now manipulating their customers by ‘greenwashing’.
There
is an instance of when Levi’s started to advise their customers on their care
tags to “wash in cold water…line-dry your jeans” and when finished with the
jeans “donate to Goodwill.” They also started promoting customers to wash their
jeans once every two weeks rather than every week to cut back on how much water
you’re using. While these are all good ways to educate the customers on how to
cut back on use of energy and water, it doesn’t show what Levi’s are doing themselves,
to show they are helping the environment. After Levi’s received backlash of
greenwashing, they ended up taking the next step in 2010, according to their
website, and announced their new “Water
When
it comes to jeans being made, large quantities of water and pesticides are used
to grow cotton, which is what jeans are made from. In the finishing phase,
water and energy are used in the dying process in which chemicals are used to
soften the fabric or make them look distressed. According to The Green Blue
Book, it takes 2,866 gallons of water to produce, dye, and finish a pair of
jeans, about twice as much water as would be used to wash them once a month for
five years with assuming they last that long. The textile industry happens to
be a very large source for chemicals that are called oxygen demand. They are
extremely deadly and can end up polluting waterways in countries with textile
factories. In countries such as the US and Canada, there are wastewater
treatment plants that help remove the chemicals from the water before they are
able to reach waterways. Unfortunately in countries that are still developing,
there are too many chemicals for the plants to be able to remove them all
because of the lax economical regulations and some have no removal plants at
all.
What
tends to happen with a lot of companies is that they will claim that they are
eco-friendly and going ‘green’ but consumers have a hard time in believing
them. For example according to Ripping The Seams website, The Gap claims that
they do regular inspections and check up’s at the factories producing Gap
products. Although the Gap has improved and does a great job at making sure
their workers environments are safe workplaces and treated fairly, the
consumers know that inspecting all of their factories is unrealistic. In this
case, some consumers feel mislead and wonder if all claims on eco-friendliness
of the company are true. Another situation that happened was according to many
news reports, in 2009 H&M was found destroying wearable clothing after they
no longer were selling the clothing. They quickly put that to an end and
created affordable sustainability with their “Conscious Collection” which is
the number 1 user of organic cotton worldwide.
What
a lot of people fail to see is that buying eco-friendly clothing isn’t as
expensive as most think. The key is not buying clothing, which in turn is the
best way to be eco-friendly. Recycling fashion and going vintage, looking
through thrift shops is the “greenest” way to go. Cotton is a very durable
textile so items that are cotton based, are able to last for years. With many
fashion companies changing their clothing production to more eco-friendly ways
it is getting the message out to consumers that it does make a difference, even
with small changes such as the material of their bags. Many of these stores are
both fashionable and affordable to consumers who rather purchase first hand
clothing, but there are also many luxurious brands that you see celebrities
wearing as well. There are some luxury brands such as Organic by John Patrick,
Stella McCartney, Edun, and Barneys Green label that prove it’s not just a
trend, many people, designers and companies are incorporating eco-friendliness
into their products.
Barney’s
fashion director, Julie Gilhart, said it best; “It’s not a trend…a trend is
something that dies. It’s a movement.”
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