Does ethical fashion have the potential to trump fast fashion?
By simply watching
the 6 o clock news, we can be well aware of the unfortunate circumstances and
suffering that goes on in the world. What some people may not know is how
closely fashion is related to much of the suffering that goes on overseas, in
developing countries, and even in our own backyards from the production of the
clothing that we wear every day.
The long held
debate on animal furs, overworked children, poor wages, and environmental
impacts has plagued the fashion world for decades. The ultimate question is,
where do we draw the line? What would most people prefer, cheaper and quicker
clothing or a higher price point that honors social responsibility? In the
perspective of Canadian fashion, I asked the question, “can ethical fashion
actually become a popular demand? Or will it always be seen as overpriced and
undervalued?” The housing market in Ontario is at an all-time high, wages are
low, and ethical fashion may not be the first thing on everyone’s minds. Within
the next ten years, are slow fashion concepts a viable movement or is fashion
simply not a sustainable industry?
We
have seen success in “main stream” ethical brands such as American Apparel, and
now, Canadian Apparel. However ethical brands are not leading in any major
circles, and are seen are more of a luxury to the upper class, despite their
design or quality. Also note the popularity of brands such as Canada Goose who
are known for using animal fur in their products. I have had the opportunity to
intern with Laura Siegel, a Toronto based fashion designer who employs artisans from rural villages all over the world
to sustain traditional cultures and crafts. Along with ensuring ethical working
conditions and living wages are provided to the skilled artisans, she
collaborates with organizations to ensure they receive mentorship and workshops
to learn how to maintain practicing their craft, provide for their families,
education on wealth management, business practices and more. The Laura Siegel Collection ranges from $150 to $1,500, and is designed
in a way to mirror the cultures in which they are constructed in. When asked
about how “fast fashion” is changing the way we relate to our clothing in an
interview with Ecouterre in 2015, Laura said that, “fast fashion has grown to a point where many of us view
clothing as disposable. And how can we not with the volumes being pumped out
each and every season by large brands? On the other hand, the growth of fast
fashion has caused an alternative movement in the industry where quality
triumphs quantity, a return to a slower and more sustainable way of making
clothing. And that is a very positive thing.”
This is an
optimistic approach to the ethical fashion issue, and Laura believes that the
demand for ethical fashion is only going to grow in the future. And how may it be
possible to market ethical fashion and enhance this movement? Laura believes
that, “transparency provides consumers a spectrum of information needed to make
a purchasing decision” according
to the same interview with Ecouterre in 2015. In order words, if more people
were able to see exactly how their clothing was produced, such as where
a garment made, who made it, and what were the conditions for those across the
supply chain – an awareness and regard for ethical clothing may continue to
grow. It is designers like Laura Siegel who are revolutionizing the fashion industry
and making a separation between quality and quantity.
Diamonds
in the rough like Laura are few among the sea of highly marketed, fast fashion
brands that are able to reach consumers on a level that smaller collections are
not. The production costs of producing one garment made by a skilled artisan is
substantially higher than one produced in a factory setting. Therefore, ethical
designers adhere to those consumers who are socially conscious, aware, and determined
to find an original piece. Unfortunately, this group is very few in comparison
to consumers who are more likely to buy a piece because of the design, price,
or quality. As mentioned before, Canada Goose capitalizes on the fact that they
use real animal fur and feathers in their clothing, but the quality of the
product trumps the fact that some may not find it entirely ethical.
Ultimately,
the way to get more people to “go green” is to raise awareness of overseas
conditions and the process in which clothing is made. But is guilt tripping
consumers into buying clothing out of their price range entirely ethical?
Probably not. The downfall of ethical fashion is that despite its popularity
the price point can never be dropped because of the higher production costs and
money that is spent bettering another Country’s economy, or spent producing
within our Canadian borders. Therefore, rather than focusing on the major
contrast between brands like Laura’s and fast fashion brands, perhaps the only
way to maintain an ethically conscious industry is for all (or the majority) of
the big, fast fashion brands to slightly limit their social and environmental
impact. In a price driven economy, that is largely effected by trends and propaganda,
slow fashion may remain a small fish in a big pond.
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