Monday, November 02, 2015

Ethical clothing

Ethical clothing

We live in the rich West can buy some very cheap clothing because workers in developing countries endure unsafe and unfair working conditions with underpaid wage. So what are we going to do about it?



Almost three quarters of world clothing exports are made in developing countries. China makes about half the world's clothing, India about a sixth, with most of the rest made in either Asia or central America. When we buy cheap clothes and accessories made from these developing countries, are we supporting a developing economy or taking advantage of underpaid workers? The answer is both we did.

Supporting economic

As many humanist considered that is our shopping encouraging children labour? Counter-intuitively, buying cheap clothes from the developing countries actually supporting they are economic and cutting child labour, rather than increasing it.
There is an interesting view from famous blog author Alex Singleton that throughout history everyone have had to work, no matter children or adults. Everyone wants to help their families have enough to eat, and the only thing that has already released them has been wealth. In early Britain, it wasn't very long ago that children were employed to clean chimneys to earn the pin money. Fortunately, as their parents became wealthier, more and more children were sent to school.
Buying clothes or accessories from the developing countries is one way to help their parents to become wealthy. For example, in 1961, HongKong’s resident earned a quarter more than people who living in the Britain; by the early 1990s, their salary exceeded US people. Campaigners complained about low wages and conditions in HongKong factories which producing the cheap plastic toys, but the toys were welcomed all over the world, HongKong became wealthy. This case told us if developing countries become better at producing one certain good, there are more and more companies will locate there, the only way companies compete for workers in particular geographical regions was rising their labour’ wage.
Some ethical consumers consider that shopped cheap clothes from the developing countries as a sign to allow the underpaid labour so that they may tempted to ditch cheap clothes entirely, and choose to buy only from developed countries where they confident that underpaid labour will never occur. But this might not have the desired effect, the only way to help the developing countries is developing their economic, even if there are underpaid labour, they still can earn money and they need money.
After they have money, they can use the money to do other things which will benefit to their countries. In opposite, putting people in poor countries out of work, and driving them back into lower-income family is the worst to their economic development.

Win-win process

Shopping the cheap clothes or accessories from the developing countries is obvious benefit to the input countries and their residents. But, it is also benefit to the output countries and their residents..
There is no doubt, poverty in the developing countries is a complex and difficult problem. No one could solve it in a short time, but offer jobs to help with the economic development will have a good long-term effect. Many people bought apparels which made in sweatshops. Instead of feel guilty for “exploiting” underpaid workers, we should rejoice, because our spending is some of the best aid we can give to people in developing countries. Authors Paul Krugman and Walter Williams have both written that when workers voluntarily take a job they demonstrate that they believe the job is the best alternative available to them – even when that job is unsafe and the pay is very low compared to wages in the North America.
Developing countries and their residents can benefit from these kind of trades by increasing their amount of or access to economic resources. Because the developing countries usually have limited economic resources such as land and borders. They need extra investment from abroad to help with develop their countries. Especially the small developing nations which often have the lowest amounts of natural resources in the economic marketplace. Oversea investment ensure small nations can obtain the economic resources needed to produce consumer goods or services. Also, the trade improves the quality of life for the input nation’s citizens. They can use less money to buy the same clothes or accessories. And use the saved money to improve the quality of their life’s. The more customers purchased, the more underpaid workers produce; the more money customers saved, the more money underpaid workers earned. It is what we called win-win process.

What expert said?


Benjamin Powell, an assistant professor of Economics at Suffolk University and a Senior Economist with the Beacon Hill Institute. Benjamin is a editor of Making Poor Nations Rich, and writing a book entitled No Sweat: How Sweatshops Improve Lives and Economic Growth. He said that have a underpaid job is always better than people have no job and pointed out that sweatshop jobs are often far better than the vast majority of jobs in the countries where they are located. Also, sweatshops can play a crucial role in economic development. Such as attract investment, bring technology, and the chance for workers to learn skills. Although, purchased cheap clothes and accessories from the poorer countries seems not ethical, but it is still a win-win process to help the poorer workers to develop their countries.

Who defines Fashion these days?




Who defines Fashion these days?


When you are in a big city, will you feel there is only wall behind you, no route of retreat?






In many people’s understanding, people who define fashion must be rich. Absolutely, money is a basis of buying luxuries. Fancy car, pool villa, Swiss watch and diamond bracelet- these material things are very far away from people who support a family relying on slender income. But fashion is not equal to the concept of luxury. Rich people may have more options of high-end fashion, but it is not mean that they lead fashion. Thus, who actually defines fashion?
Science and Technology
Just think. If fashion icon wear the coolest new stuff such as mobile phone, watch, glasses and headset, these electronic products will become the next out of stock popularly products. While wearing the coolest electronic products will be deemed to the show of characteristics.
When Paris Hilton wore Galaxy Gear watch at New York Fashion Week, led to screaming fans, at the same time the murder of photographic film a lot of big brother. You won’t have any doubt of that.
Last year, Google cooperated with branding business at New York Fashion Week- filming whole fashion week with Google glass. Samsung equipped Samsung Note mobile device for supermodels and fashion celebrities, aim to celebrities shared their experiences at fashion week by Samsung mobile device.
This year, Samsung cooperated with jewelry designer Lorenz at FALLON Spring/Summer party& event. The designer designed a complete set of punk rock style accessories for Galaxy Note 3 and Gear watch, such as Gear’s leather and metal adjustable wrist strap and Note 3’s metal chain mini bag, etc.
In a word, Samsung and designer want to convey is a spirit and philosophy, electronic products are not functional tools any more. They are fashion accessories that can represent ego style. Bluntly, you can’t change your cellphone because it doesn’t work. The reason that you got a new product is not aim to its function. Instead, you wear the new style clothes but hold the old style cellphone. Sorry, it is not cool enough. Your cellphone sell your taste. So science and technology define fashion in a sense.
International Luxury Brands
The international luxury brands such as CHANEL and ARMANI are not only the synonym of valuableness, but they also pay a high cost for creating popular fashion. Although it may make people think fashion is too expensive, just because of the strong support of financial resources, it make these international luxury brands become a flag that never fall down at the front of fashion.
Not everyone has this kind of flag, more people don’t need to spend their money, but they can feast their eyes on flying flags. Yes, everyone has the right of making frivolous remarks about fashion event and famous brand spokesperson. Of course the smart audience can find out the fashion element from it and package it on their selves.
Some people will also wear similar fashion element to international luxury brands. One of the best choices is shopping at ZARA. ZARA is known as precise fashion. Generally, once some top brands display their latest design, ZARA will design and release the style rapidly that is very similar to those top brands. According to reports, ZARA pay tens of millions of euros to those top brands as infringement fine every year in Europe. But as we can see, ZARA didn’t give up this kind of business model. Obviously, the profit that they made is much higher than the fine that they paid.
The reason why ZARA sell such great is because of customers purchase behavior. The reason why customers love to shop at ZARA is because ZARA always keep up with international luxury brands trends. So the international luxury brands can be said to define fashion.
Fashion Bloggers
You won’t believe who the fashion brands want to please most. It is fashion bloggers! People who can become a famous fashion blogger, they must have particular style of dressing. They shared their daily outfit on blog and instagram, then a lot of people gave “like” to their photos. Some people will wear as their favorite bloggers. They learn how to match clothes from bloggers.
Some bloggers also create their own brands. There is a person that you must remember her name in the fashion circle- Chiara Ferragni. Since she started her blog in 2009, she always shared her all kinds of outfit and tie-in skills. Her blog had 90000 page views every day. She also got the media attention because of this. After that, she got more and more fans. She created her own shoes brand and got a lot attention.
Nowadays, her annual income is more than 8 million dollars. Many brands deliver their latest style to her, aim to let her wear their brands and show to her fans. Then the brands that she wears will become the next hot customer goods. Chiara Ferragni is the best example to prove that bloggers define fashion.
What is the expert’s idea?
I interviewed a pattern designer who works in Paris by email, based on the topic “who defines fashion?” She said trend is fashionable theme of the year, such as animal print or candy colors. It is man-made decision. She also introduced the rough flow to me. Each top brand designer meets each other at Paris fashion union in the previous year. They discuss the trend then decide popular theme of the next year. Once they confirm, they go back to their own studios and design around the theme closely. Then they show their style and talent until the fashion week. After that, with the influence of fashion week and the spread of each media, this style will become fashionable spontaneously.



Fast Fashion Industry: Supporting Developing Countries or Depriving Labor Forces?

Fast Fashion Industry: Supporting Developing Countries or Depriving Labor Forces?
When people talk about Shenzhen, a southern metropolitan in China, the very first thing that comes to their minds is probably the “high-speed” economic miracle under China’s Open policy. However, few people can observe the connection between the fast fashion brands including ZARA, H&M and TOPSHOP, and the manufacturing companies located at the suburban area of Shenzhen, as well as other regions in China, India, Southeast Asia and Latin America. Due to the properties of low-cost, easy-accessibility and flexibility of diversification, fast fashion seldom fails to maintain a high demand globally, especially among the middle class consumers as well as the consumers from emerging markets, which brings a huge profit to the industry. Such a huge profit raise increasing concerns about the underpaid labor forces globally.  According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics and the article "China's manufacturing employment and compensation costs: 2002-06", because of the high demand, employees in fast fashion manufacturing factories are required to work more than 80 hours per week, while the average hourly compensation of employees in fast fashion sector is below 2 dollar, more than fifty times less than that in the US (Erin, L., Judith, B. (2009). Monthly Labor Review, April 2009, pp. 30-38.). Such high-pressure low-paid working conditions not only attracted public attention to underpaid labors’ human rights, but also raised concerns towards the potential issues of fast fashion sustainability.
In the first place, some people believed that fast fashion enterprises brought many developing opportunities to the developing countries. This is indeed the truth. For example, in 2000s, China’s Open policy and its participation to WTO provided a much lower entrance cost for foreign enterprises. Such policies and China’s huge labor market did attracted many manufacture-based companies including fast fashion companies to invest in many east coast cities and Pearl River Delta in Southern China. These investments were an ideal match for Chinese government, because the drastically increase in Foreign Direct Investment stimulated the local economy and domestic consumption. “Foreign enterprises are more than welcome to invest here,” says Jun Gu, Vice Chairman of Shanghai Municipal Commission of Commerce, who is in charge of Foreign Investment Affairs and Foreign Trade Development. I’m so glad to have an interview with Jun Gu through Skype, due to the fact that the interviewee is very busy, so the interview only last a few minutes.He looks so professional by wearing a light blue shirt. He expressed his thoughts very clearly. “It is crucial for us to introduce more foreign investments to develop our local markets and update our local infrastructures. It is also a good chance to build up the commercial relationship between Shanghai and other regions to promote mutual trades.” Moreover, according to the IMF working paper “The Determinants of Economic Growth in the Philippines: A New Look”, due to the entrance of fast fashion sectors, the manufacturing sector maintains the largest contribution to Philippine’s GDP with more than 20% shares over 10 years (Tolo, J. (2009). IMF Working Paper, December 2011). With these significant contributions to developing countries’ economics growth, there is without doubt that clothing and accessories companies did supported the emerging markets.
However, more and more evidence appears to show the fast fashion companies’ taking advantages of underpaid workers and the infringement of human rights. In a UNICEF report written by Josephine Moulds in 2014, among the estimated 170million child labor around the world, more than a half of them are engaged in fast fashion industries to make textiles, clothing, garments, leather and footwear to satisfy the intensive demand of consumers. India, a developing country that benefits a lot from fast fashion industry, is particularly notorious for recruiting child labor to produce textile and garments. “When we went to investigate the garment factories in Tamil Nadu in South India, we are so astonished,” says Martje Theuws, a researcher in a non-profit organization SOMO. “Many children were performing arduous tasks such as dyeing, sewing buttons, cutting and trimming threads, folding, moving and packing garments. And in some small workshops, teenagers were forced to work in an unhygienic environment to work on intricate tasks like embroidering, sequinning and smocking.” Martje Theuws is the co-author of the SOMO report “Flawed Fabrics”, in which she revealed serious labor rights and human rights violations behind many fast fashion brands. Not only India, illegal child labor recruitment also exists in Southeast Asia and North Asia, especially Thailand, Uzbekistan and Bangladesh.
Moreover, no employee insurance and overtime-underpaid situation are widely exist in fashion industry. In Pearl River Delta area, almost all textile and garment manufacturing factories operated 24/7, and each employee are required to work more than 12 hours a day without regular weekends. Working hard in this strong profitability sector, they are, on the contrary, rewarded with a less than two dollars hourly salary that can barely meet their basic living costs. Another widely criticized issue is the workers’ safety. Producing textiles and accessories is an unsafe job, because manufacturers face high probability of getting injuries when sewing or cutting. However, when interviewing several workers in Shenzhen, we learned that very few factories provide workers with any protection contracts or insurance. Hard work, low wage, no protection, no wonder many people accuse fast fashion industry of depriving labor.
Nowadays fast fashion industry still maintain its fast-growing trend, but as the developing countries continue to grow, it is necessary for every fast fashion companies to give a solution and find a balance between profit and effectively improving the working condition as well as offering fair treatment to every manufacturing worker.





Monday, October 19, 2015

Service Journalism pieces

Less is More by Yuchen Shao
Patchwork Denim by Haley Dach
Staying Couture in the Cold by Alison Capstick
From Beau to Belle by Christina Musson
Latex Love by Matthew Godin