Monday, March 03, 2014

Social Flux



Social Media: Boon or Bane?

I remember being in Grade 10 when I heard about Facebook; all my friends were making accounts and told me I should too. Why? No one could really express what it was or why it was cool, other than that you could write on people's walls, whatever that meant. What's an awkward 15 year old to do? I hopped on the bandwagon.

Today, Facebook is better understood as a part of the ever amassing social media; in a nutshell, it’s electronic interaction and sharing of information over the internet. It's a way to interact in new and exciting ways, both speeding and increasing the volume of interaction.

Similarly to the creation of my Facebook, my friends had previously influenced me to create an MSN messenger account, something I used pretty much everyday once I got it. Online chat was an easy, intimate way to quickly talk to people, especially for kids like me that didn't get a cell phone until near the end – or even after – high school. Sites like Pinterest and Tumblr provide different services, but all of them create new and varied ways to interact with others.

Despite the extra contact social media creates, it seems to be a bottomless addiction. I remember a friend of mine once told me how good she felt posting a picture of herself (partially nude) and the instant self-esteem boost she got from 194 strangers double-tapping it on Instagram. Besides creating new experiences like these, the electronic social experience has begun to take over more organic ones as well; I've found myself in odd situations where friends feel it's very necessary to take time away from what they're doing to document it on social media for strangers and acquaintances, while I sit in hope that the food will still be warm after the photoshoot is over.

Besides my dinner, there are plenty of other instances where social media has had a negative effect, like instances we've all heard about where a kid gets bullied at school then later at home via text message and social media, effectively trapping them in an inescapable net of oppression in what used to be a safe space. Or what about those career-destroying, life-wrecking, nude pics that always end up online? More on that later.

Most of what I'm saying may seem fairly obvious to users, hence my bigger question: where does social media fit into the big picture? It helps us connect, feel special, and feel that we belong, though at times it can clearly do the opposite. Where does the future lie? What are the larger social implications? And how do the negatives ethically weigh up with the positives?

In an interview with Jeff Bercovici for Playboy, Nick Denton – owner of Gawker Media – said he believes that social media has made the world more transparent, forcing people to out their secrets, which is better in the end, for everyone. He makes the example of posting pictures of drunk and promiscuous nights online and how most people thought our generation would destroy their job prospects.

"What actually happened was that institutions and organizations changed, and frankly any organization that didn’t change was going to handicap itself because everyone, every normal person, gets drunk in college. There are stupid pictures or sex pictures of pretty much everybody. "

Due to social media, issues such as calling out the talking heads on FOX when they make a mistake to shattering exposés like the Snowden leak are happening faster and more effectively than ever. Maybe it's not such a big deal that your ex posted that picture she was supposed to delete on that porn site. Nick Denton would approve, let's just hope your family doesn't see it.

In 2006, Google bought out Youtube for an easy billion dollars, a third of their net value at the time, something economists laughed at because who buys something for that much money when it has no revenue? Today, Google is the one laughing as the economy moves and thrives with social media and their company is worth over $280 billion. Similarly, Facebook acquired Whatsapp a few months ago for about $19 billion and many people are seeing this the way they saw the Youtube acquisition: naive and stupid.

Marc Zuckerberg's ideas for the future are perhaps less noble and grandiose than Nick Denton's, though: he said at the Mobile World Congress in February that he wants to take Facebook to the third world, via cheap cell phones and data plans. That's right. If you don't have access to clean water you'll at least be able to make a witty complaint about it in a Facebook status and maybe get a few likes from the cool kids in your village.

The internet and globalization have made this planet feel a lot smaller and important issues hit millions of eyes every day, via social media. However, there's definitely a growing feeling of complacency, where issues are being shoved in our faces so much they become so much white noise and less shocking. We’re creating a lot of armchair activists, people who feel like they're part of something greater because they shared a video of pink goop that (allegedly) shows where McNuggets come from, or sent excessive texts when a phone carrier had a special charity day. I don't want to downplay the importance of such initiatives, but they do make the idea of social reform seem as easy as a click and people forget that it takes more than a Facebook like to fix the world.

Selena Larson, a journalist for ReadWrite.com, wrote an article outlining why she thinks Facebook may be the last great social network. Maybe she's right. Like the internet that is it's domain, social media is fluid and diverging along different paths. Maybe the next big thing won't look anything like the social networks of the past. Social media has definitely made a great change on society and I'm excited to see where it takes us in the future, in the meantime, I’ll be trolling kids on Buzzfeed.

NEXT STOP: DUBAI?

THE EMERGENCE OF A MIDDLE EASTERN FASHION POWERHOUSE

The Middle East has always been a subject of interest in the world.  Whether it concerns politics, wars, cultural differences or tourism, the Middle East seems to draw attention to itself.  But now, could this developing region be home to the world’s next fashion capital?
The Middle East is divided into two types of countries: oil-producing countries such as Saudi Arabia, Iran, Iraq, United Arab Emirates and Kuwait and non-oil-producing countries which include Lebanon, Syria, Israel, and Jordan to name a few.  Not surprisingly, according to a pole done in June 2013 of the top 10 richest countries in the world using gross domestic product (GDP) per capita provided by the International Monetary Fund’s April 2013 World Economic Outlook Database as well as CIA World Factbook, one of them was a Middle Eastern oil-producing country.  The United Arab Emirates came in 6th, proving that oil-producing countries can support a high-fashion industry.
This is a country were Dubai and luxury are one and the same, where one can find the tallest tower in the world, where man-made islands are shaped to look like palm trees and the only country where luxury cars are synonymous with police cars.  Where else will you find a Ferrari, a Lamborghini and a $2.5 million Bugatti Veyron part of a police fleet?
With a desire to elevate the city’s glamour and luxury as well as their economy, Dubai looks to include other industries that would complement those they already focus on.  This is the primary reason for Dubai’s pursuit of the multi-billion dollar fashion industry.  And though the U.S., Europe and Japan are the leaders of this industry, Dubai is the force to contend with in the Middle East, as this city accounts for nearly half of the region’s market share with regards to retail spending.
Dubai has been ranked the second-most important destination for international retailers after London by real estate services firm CBRE as the majority of all leading international retailers have opened stores in Dubai and the consulting firm Bain and Company has determined that a third of all luxury spending (clothing, accessories, cars) in the Middle East occurs in this fast developing city.
Unfortunately, this does not satisfy the city’s officials, as they want to develop Dubai’s creativity by making it the place to be for the Middle East’s best designers.
Construction for the Dubai Design District, or D3 has begun.  This giant project will be solely dedicated to the development of the fashion industry in Dubai and will house design studios, and boutiques, as well as hotels, high-end departments, and of course, shopping.  According to the CEO of Tecom Investments, Amina Al Rustamani, who is developing D3, the first phase of construction will measure approximately 18 million square foot and will cost $1 billion.
The goal is to create a space that caters to everyone living in Dubai, as the majority of the population, around 90% of its population are foreigners.  This strong multinational presence is great for Dubai designers because they see it as a means to get noticed by the world.  The concepts and ideas for D3 will make it uniquely its own, separating it from Milan and Paris.
Bain and Company stated that nearly a third of the $7.6 billion spent on fashion in the Middle East in 2012 was spent in Dubai.  This can be explained by a fashion driven region.
In the Middle East, fashion is part of the culture.  ‘Fashion is not merely a luxury, but a necessity in this part of the world’, says Lebanese designer Zayan Ghandour.  With this in mind, many believe that in the Middle East women dress relatively conservatively, though locals disagree.  Underneath the traditional long black robes over clothing and scarves over their hair and faces, they are ‘dressed to the nines’, with their high fashion clothing, flawless makeup without a single hair out of place.  Women love to flaunt themselves and their beauty, whether in public or during private gatherings.  In the Middle East, fashion means culture.
And in Dubai it also means business.  In Dubai, shopping is tax free, and with 40 malls in the UAE, it isn’t surprising that the Oxford Business Group announced that a third of Dubai’s economy comes from their retail industry. And with over 75 million visitors last year, it’s no wonder why the Dubai Mall is looking to expand its retail space.
The Mall of Emirates is looking to increase their sales substantially and plans to invest $1 billion over the next 5 years in order to introduce new stores as well as restaurants to their 466 stores currently available to visitors.
These expansions will contribute to the planned increase in tourism in order to prepare for the World Expo in 2020, which Dubai will be hosting.  Officials expect 17.5 million foreign visitors to attend the 6-monthlong World Expo.
According to the fashion market analyst of Bain and Company, Cyrille Fabre, tourism and fashion go hand in hand in the UAE as shopping is the third largest reason for tourists to visit Dubai.
He said that ‘fashion is a big tourist attraction and as the fashion industry grows, tourism grows and vice versa’.

So is Dubai the next fashion capital of the world? Evidently, the city has the financial backing to fund the necessary requirements as well as being a very important Middle Eastern tourist destination.  Could it be enough?
The Designers Unhealthy Influence
-Do designers have the right to encourage and support unhealthy body standards to present their products to the public?

It seems fashion has more of an influence over society today than it ever has.  The majority of young girls have dreamt about gracing a runway, magazine cover or billboard.   However the influences have led to issues for young aspiring models to be dangerously thin, expected to tolerate sexual advances and even harassment on the job as well as not being compensated for work done. These issues need more attention and need to be addressed and monitored. 
            The average age of models these days is 14-21.  This age in a young women’s life is very influential and it can be very intimidating in this industry.  Most are underage and without parental guidance since they’ve left home to pursue the path of becoming a model.  Constant pressures to be thin have led to hospitalization and even death due to starvation, organ failure, anorexia or bulimia.  These types of sicknesses create emotional issues.  Yet with no time to address these problems due to busy schedules, it is bound to break these girls down and create long-term psychological problems.  It is a short-term career, as many models ‘time to shine’ lasts only 3-4yrs at most. At the end most haven’t a clue what to do with the rest of their life.  As seen in the documentary ‘Picture Me’ presented by former model Sara Ziff, many very successful models are left with the impression after a few years of modeling that their too old or not pretty enough anymore.  Which is an awful way to think of yourself at still such a young age.
            Most designers only seek out very thin, size 0-4 young girls to model their clothing.   It lays flat on the body and gives the desired look the designers trying to achieve and sell.  When the designers are creating their garment they use a mannequin to create it, that’s why the models chosen are similar to the same shape.  When designer Karl Lagerfield was asked about using a bigger framed model he responded that “the fashion industry is supporting dreams and illusions, and no one wants to see a round woman.” Other designers such as Victoria Beckham have stated that  many of these models are naturally thin and should not be discriminated against for having that body type.  Although its quite unrealistic to think that, that many girls are naturally a thin build.  If this were true, girls wouldn’t be fainting and having kidney failure and other health issues. Some models have been known to eat only lettuce and drink diet soda for up to 3 months before a show. With the other scary side of the industry being sexual abuse or harassment by high-profile photographers or other professionals in the industry.  They’ve been known to try and convince underage girls to either go naked without notice or put in a compromising situation with an older male.  They are then told to keep quiet about it if they want to be hired for future jobs. With extreme measures taken by certain girls to achieve the desired look for the job and compromising their morals and values for a job just isn’t acceptable.  From a marketing perspective this just doesn’t seem necessary to put young models through this, with the average woman being size 6-10, you’d think to gain more profit designers would promote their products to a bigger market. 
            That being said it is understood that it is the designers right to design and choose how their creation is presented.  But every other business is held accountable for their employees through either health and safety regulations and health care policies, limits on consecutive hours worked etc.  Why should it be any different for models?
            The Model Alliance is a non-for-profit organization started by Sara Ziff (former model) that works with modeling agencies to give models a voice in the workplace and improve basic working environments.  Statistics listed on their website show 64% of models are asked to lose weight, 30% experience inappropriate touching on the job, 31% have eating disorders, 76% are exposed to drugs or alcohol on the job, 86% are asked to go nude without previous notice.  During fashion weeks these girls are expected to go non stop.  Working over the legal amount of hours and being run into the ground is not good for their health. The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) has been bringing awareness and informing modeling agencies, designers and stylists to not use underage, extremely thin models.  In 2009 The British Trade Union, Equity, agreed to take models on to a membership that provided injury compensation, legal, accounting services and visa advice. They also established a minimum wage of an average $100 per show with a chance of increase if the designer chooses to continue to use the model for future shows.  More organizations and bills need to be passed in Canada though in order to set proper standards that designer’s and agencies need to follow to keep this a healthy environment for everyone.

            Every model has the right to a professional work environment , with adequate pay and negotiable commissions and specific rights for those under the age of 18.   It’s time for a change in the fashion industry as many young woman are looking up to these models and designers.  A healthy example would have a huge impact on future generations and is what we should all be striving for.

Underemployment NOT Unemployment

As our world becomes more and more fast paced with the exponential evolution of technology, society begins to face new challenges to adapt in order to overcome. One challenge in specific that young ambitious professionals face is the challenge of not only finding work within their field but work that engages and stimulates the professional. According to the Latest Indicators of Statistics Canada in the current economic market Canada’s unemployment rate is 7%, which means 2,47O,7O4 willing to work Canadians, will be out of work. What is even more daunting is that Statistics Canada in January 2O14 that the youth unemployment rate is a double the national average at 14%! This is a daunting reality for students in Canada, in 2OO5 Statistics Canada found that the average student debt in Canada was 18,8OO$, today in Ontario specifically the average student debt is 28,OOO$. Student debt should be expected and can be a healthy motivator to pushing yourself to the professional position but, not if student hit a wall of unpaid internships or multiple part time jobs.  In January the Provincial Government raised minimum wage in Ontario from 1O.25$ to 11$. This is great news but as a single young male about to graduate from college in Toronto my yearly expenses with school in Toronto cost from around 2O,816$ to 26,88O$ per year. This means graduating from college I will need to not only obtain a 14$-16$ an hour job to support my own needs I will have to produce more income to pay off my student debts. Not only are Canadians facing the challenges of unemployment they are also facing the challenges of underemployment. Under employment occurs when individuals with skill sets are forced to work at low paying jobs not fully utilizing the individual’s talents and skill sets. Underemployment is related to the low amount of jobs available to students within their industry after they graduate, most tend to be internships, unpaid. This is a current issue within our economic market and needs to be examined and dealt with.
            Natasha Adam [alias] graduated from Algonquin College’s Fashion management program in 2O12 and has been working in the industry ever since. Adam worked in retail for two years and eventually worked to become the store manager. With a salary of 31,135$ a year she works 38 hours a week and gets two weeks paid vacation as well as medical and dental health insurance. This is great news for the average student with debt showing you what you can do if you set your mind to it. Although Natasha mentions many other challenges within her workplace, “Getting paid less as a woman, sexual harassment, and being under employed are the challenges I face on a day-to-day basis. It is hard to find salary work out in this economy so I’m happy I have it, but I feel I have skills that are beyond the skills demanded on a day-to-day basis.” She is one of the ambitious young professionals in today’s economy that set her mind to achieving a goal and achieved it. Natasha is one of the lucky ones; most students find some financial relief from the service industry as a server, bartender, or busser. This does show that if you keep at it and work for it you do have a shot, take it. 
            In tough economic times like these its important to encourage consumers to spend and make the right decisions with their money but we must also encourage the ambitious young individual to go out on their own, take a leap of faith. Paul Denys was exactly that, after graduating college in the 197O he leaped into the trades with a bike as an apprentice. After apprenticing Paul felt motivated and confident enough to start his own company Denys Builds Designs, a design and renovation company in Ottawa. He has seen success and trust within his community offering high-end design options with outstanding attention to detail. Paul remembers the struggle to fill his schedule with work and maintain steady work load. Paul states he’s happy he went out on his on because it allows him to challenge himself and do something he loves everyday.

            Whether this issue is one of the 21st century or human society as people we should be aware of this and focus on fulfilling employees desire to be more engaged in the workplace. It would be beneficial to both employer and employee creating a positive work environment for more and more Canadians, not just the young ones. Employment issues may not be easy to fix but it doesn’t mean they should be ignored. A generation is calling out for help and they deserve and answer, or at least a three-dollar rise in the minimum wage from the Federal Government.

Monday, February 10, 2014

Service articles

Vegan Vogue By Jesse Sousa
Grabbing Fur by the Foot Tanyt El-Hage
Devil in the Details by  Reuben Virasami
The Fresh, The Fierce, The Innocent by Alessandra Saccone
What's next? Prepping your professional profile for the real world by Nathan Denys